Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Anchor Failure, Fall on Rock, Washington, Mount Thompson, West Ridge

RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILURE, FALL ON ROCKWashington, Mount Thompson, West RidgeOn September 17, two climbers had completed an ascent of Mount Thompson via the West Ridge and decided to rappel down the route instead of down-climbing the adjacent East Rid...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Central Asia, Tibet, Shankangshan Range, Pt. 6,603m, Southeast Ridge, West Summit; Pt. 6,210m, Southwest Ridge; Pt. 6,390m, West Ridge; All First Official Ascents

Shahkangshan Range, Pt. 6,603m, southeast ridge, west summit; Pt. 6,210m, southwest ridge; Pt. 6,390m, west ridge; all first official ascents. Our team from Imperial College London approached the Shahkangshan Range from the south, via Saga. The na...


Feature Article AAJ
Take the Long Way Home, The First Climb in Baffin Island's Super-Remote Buchan Gulf

Take the Long Way HomeThe first climb in Baffin Island’s super-remote Buchan Gulf.Stefan GlowaczWe should have been content. For days we had been climbing a wall that rose more than 600 meters from the frozen sea on the east coast of Baffin Island...


Notes AAJ
The War in the Alps

The War in the Alps. This has proceeded according to our prediction (A.A.J. v, 441), and for the first time Allied forces cut the perimeter of the main chain. The way for this was paved by the 10th Division’s action on Mt. Belvedere in January, fo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, 1983

Colorado, 1983. About 10 miles west of Colorado Springs at Green Mountain Falls, Harrison Dekker climbed Sex Axe (50 feet, 5.12a), an overhanging crack starting as thin fingers and gradually widening to fists. On the main cliff below Sex Axe, Bob ...


In Memoriam AAJ
George Hubert WIlkins, 1888-1958

GEORGE HUBERT WILKINS1888-1958Our Honorary Member, Sir Hubert Wilkins, died on December 1, 1958, and with his passing the Club, in concert with many groups and individuals, has lost a true friend. Science and Arctic development have felt the loss ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Makalu, West Face, Attempt

Makalu, West Face, Attempt. I tried to climb solo Makalu’s west face, one of the biggest problems in the Himalaya. Our team comprised Taeko Nagao, Base Camp manager, Hiroshi Aota, four t.v. staff, and me as leader and climbing member. We establish...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Yosemite National Park, Dana Glacier

California, Yosemite National Park, Dana Glacier. On 20 July, Eden Smith, Forest Follette, Ron Follette and a friend hiked to the top ofMt. Dana. None was an experienced climber. There was no thought of doing any difficult climbing. While explorin...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Idaho, Sawtooth Range, Elephant's Perch, Free Ascents

Elephant’s Perch, free ascents. During the summer I realized the free-climbing potential on the Elephant’s Perch. A number of old aid routes, created on perfect granite in the 1970s and 80s, had not been free climbed. The Seagull, a nice 5.10 A3 l...


Accident Reports ANAM
Nervous Breakdown — Alaska, Mount McKinley

NERVOUS BREAKDOWNAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 12, 1982, a seven-member Fantasy Ridge guided party (led by Michael Covington) established a camp on the Peters Glacier to climb the Northwest Buttress of Mount McKinley.During the night of June 13, A...


Accident Reports ANAM
Failure to Follow Route, Climbing Alone, Exposure, Inadequate Equipment/Clothing, Weather, Inexperience, California, Mount Shasta, Avalanche Gulch

FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, CLIMBING ALONE, EXPOSURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT/CLOTHING, WEATHER, INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Mount Shasta, Avalanche GulchHenry Clardy (41) was planning on climbing the Avalanche Gulch route on the south side of the mountain...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, Great White Wall, Death Camas Dihedrals

Great White Wall, Death Camas Dihedrals. “Back in the saddle,” I mused, as Andy Donson and I took aim at a line across from Balanced Rock Overlook. Yet saddle sores remained several months later. Blackened and battered, I harbored the memory with ...


Feature Article ANAM
Equipment Testing

EQUIPMENT TESTINGThe Oregon section during 1965 has instituted a testing program of equipment. The following table presents their data obtained in the field using a Dillon Dynamo meter and an anchored “come-a-long” device to apply the force. In ex...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Inadequate Equipment, Exceeding Abilities — British Columbia, Kamloops Area, Marble Canyon

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESBritish Columbia, Kamloops Area, Marble CanyonOn May 7, 1983, Bob Boonstra (32) fell while climbing at Marble Canyon with three companions, Simon Fitzsimmons (17), Amund...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock—Dislodged Rock, Monterrey, El Potrero Chico, Space Boyz

MEXICOFALLING ROCK–DISLODGED ROCKMonterrey, El Potrero Chico, Space BoyzOn December 29, my climbing partner, Crockett Farnell, and I (Gordon Wright) were climbing the 11 -pitch route Space Boyz on the west side of El Potrero Chico, near Monterrey,...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Ladakh-Kashmir, Agyasol East

Agyasol East. Our object was to climb either Agyasol or Shivling in the Kishtwar Himalaya, both unclimbed peaks of about 6200 meters (20,342 feet). The Kingston Polytechnic team had spent a long time in 1980 trying to approach Agyasol and finally ...


In Memoriam AAJ
Elbridge Rand Herron, 1902-1932

ELBRIDGE RAND HERRON 1902-1932On October 13, 1932, Elbridge Rand Herron, returning from India with an expedition that had attempted Nanga Parbat, made a day’s excursion to Cairo and climbed the Second Pyramid. He had done the difficult top part wi...

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Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Venezuela, Mt. Roraima, German Route, and Bungle in the Jungle

Mt. Roraima, German Route, and Bungle in the Jungle. In December, our team of Zac Barr, Corey Nielsen, Peter Mortimer, and photographer Ben Watkins traveled to Mt. Roraima to attempt to free climb the unrepeated aid line The Prow. The route follow...


Club Activities AAJ
Harvard Mountaineering Club

Harvard Mountaineering Club. The H.M.C. celebrated its 70th anniversary in 1994, which was an eventful year for the club. The recent trend of increasing campus interest in climbing has continued and was reflected in the swelling roles of membershi...


Feature Article AAJ
Climbs in Mexico, 1932

Climbs in Mexico, 1932Henry S. Hall, Jr.THE train ride from Vera Cruz up to Mexico City, though hot and dusty in parts, offers much solace to the mountaineer, for there are splendid views from the car window of the snow-crowned Orizaba, seen all d...