Colorado National Monument. The south face of Grand View Spire was climbed by Mike Baker, Michael Kennedy and Bob Wade (IV, 5.10, 5 pitches). Balanced Rock (5.6, A0+), located on the drive into the Monument, was climbed by John Middendorf and Came...
Oliskardstind, Ut i Vår Hage. For two years I’d kept an eye on an unclimbed line on Oliskard- stind, but I’d never been in the right place at the right time. Sometimes we travel to far-away places in hopes of sending the climbs of our dreams and f...
PNEUMONIA, ACUTE MOUNTAIN SICKNESS, FROSTBITE, WEATHER Wyoming, TetonsOn December 31, 1986, Blair Rich (32) called my residence from Moose and reported that a member of his Grand Teton climbing party was in trouble at the Lower Saddle. I responded...
FALL ON ROCK, OFF-ROUTE–LATE START LED TO HASTEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Lower ExumOn September 3, Leah Samberg fell 3 5 feet from the third pitch of the Lower Exum Ridge (5.7), shattering her upper left arm and breaking her hip.Mid-morn...
Hikers and Climbers Guide to the Sandias. Mike Hill. University of New Mexico Press, Albuquerque, 1983. XII + 234 pages, black and white photographs, route diagrams, charts, map, bibliography. $9.95.There is much to commend in this daypack-size gu...
Sierra Club. The Sierra Club once again engaged in a large program of summer outings, including the 48th high trip into the Sierra Nevada, 3 burro trips, a base camp trip, 3 knapsack trips (one to Colorado), 2 family burro trips, and 2 river-runni...
The Squamish ChiefEdward CooperFive years ago the ascent of the face of the Squamish Chief, previously erroneously referred to as "Goose Rock," would have been unthinkable, but improving techniques and equipment now made it feasible. The remarkabl...
FALL ON ROCK, WRONG TYPE OF BOOTS, NO SPOTTERWashington, Washington Pass, Liberty BellI have been climbing since the early 1950s and still get out to unexplored areas these days. After climbing in an untouched area of the Pantheons in the BC Coast...
Two Generations. Edmund and Peter Hillary. Hodder and Stoughton, London, 1985. 223 pages, 31 color photographs, 4 sketch maps. £10.95.As its title suggests, Edmund and Peter Hillary’s Two Generations endeavors to reveal, explore and contrast two g...
Mt. Kenya, Pt. John, new rock routes. December weather is still unstable: sunny warm days can switch with high winds, lots of rain, and snow above 4,000m. My first time on the peak, during the 2002 Christmas break, brought icy conditions on the hi...
The Complete West Ridge of EverestTone Škarja, Planinska Zveza Slovenije, YugoslaviaOUR REQUEST FOR permission to climb Mount Everest had already been sent to the Nepalese government in 1974. Between April 9 and May 5, 1978 Stane Belak, Štefan Mar...
Ushba, One More AttemptLawrence CoolidgeUSHBA (15,409 ft.), double-barreled Matterhorn of the Caucasus, is one of its most challenging and coveted peaks. It has turned back many strong parties in the course of the last forty-three years, and has s...
Addicted to Danger: A Memoir about Affirming Life in the Face of Death. Jim Wickwire and Dorothy Bullit. Pocket Books: New York, 1998. Black-and-white photos. 352 pages. $24.00.On a grass field 100 yards long in the desert area of Central Washingt...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, PROTECTIONPULLED OUT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Clear Creek CanyonSept. 13th. It was a beautiful day for climbing. Michelle (24) and I (29) drove out to Clear Creek Canyon to hone our fledgling lead s...
A Dream of White Horses. Edwin Drummond. Diadem Books, Cheshire (England), 1987. 224 pages, black-and-white photographs. £10.95.Once in a while something happens that takes your breath away. A stunning physical attraction, a taste of exquisitely p...
A Dictionary of Mountaineering, by R. G. Collomb. Glasgow and London: Blackie & Son Ltd., 1957. 175 pages; 52 sketches. Price 12s 6d.This is an interesting attempt at a dictionary of mountaineering terms. It is, however, by no means complete o...
First Ascents in the Arrigetch. My two brothers, Carl and Michael, and I spent four weeks in the Arrigetch in the central Brooks Range. We ascended Battleship and Citadel* by obvious class 3–4 routes (in both cases the west ridge) and Pyramid by t...
Trento Peak; Om Shanti; Col 5,630m; Bruno Detassis Peak; Fiamme Gialle Peak. In September I led an expedition that included a doctor and eight mountaineers employed in the Italian Guardia di Finanza Mountain Rescue. We explored little-known areas ...
New Hampshire, Mt. Washington, Tuckerman’s Ravine—On February 19, 1956 A. Aaron Leve (29), Albert E. Sanderson (51), Charles Fay (21), Frank Truesdale (31) and George Speers (34) were involved in an avalanche in Tuckerman’s Ravine. The day before ...
PARTY SEPARATED, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE; CONTRIBUTING FACTORS: UNROPED, FAULTY USE OF EQUIPMENT, BAD WEATHER, EXPOSURE—Washington, Mt. Rainier. On November 27, 1975, Mark Boatsman (23), Norman Hill (22), Tompkins, and Welsh registered at Paradise...