Bolivian Climbing, Overview. It was a dry year. The Bolivian government introduced drinking laws, which meant bars had to shut at 2 a.m. except for Saturdays and Sundays, when they shut at 3 a.m. There was also some weather, or rather a lack there...
Anyemaqen, East Face. During September and October Geof Bartram, Tim Macartney-Snape, Andrew Henderson, Charles Massy and I visited the Anyemaqen range in Qinghai province. The weather was very bad and we were able to complete only one climb, the ...
Cerro Piergiorgio, Attempt. The esthetic Greenpeace route (7a A0, 900m) on the west flank of this peak, which has only seen two ascents since it was first climbed in the mid-1980s, saw several valiant attempts from the Swiss team of David Göttler ...
California, Tahquitz Rock. On 17 September Lew Himmelrich and Steve Himmelrich (14) had been climbing for about three hours and decided to come down for lunch as they were just out to practice. They had made two rappels and were making the third w...
Kamet, West Face and West Ridge. Our joint Indian Army and French Army expedition climbed a new route on Kamet. We left the roadhead at Mana on August 27. After many porterage problems, we set up Base Camp on the Pachham Kamet Glacier at 5300 mete...
St. Elias and Other Peaks. Shortly before the Editor received the sad news that in September the prominent Czech climber Mirosla v Šmid had been killed soloing on Lost Arrow Spire in Yosemite, he got a letter from Šmid, telling that with Swiss fri...
Miles Smart on the last headwall on the Great Trango Tower during the second attempt to climb the southwest ridge. Photo by Timmy O'Neill. During July and August, Miles Smart and I spent almost 50 days camped atop a lateral moraine on the Tra...
Kwangde Nup, North Buttress. In the pre-monsoon period, Alex Lowe and I climbed a new grade-VI route on Kwangde Nup to the right of the one done by Jeff Lowe and David Breashears in 1982. Our route followed the north buttress, which is simply an e...
Everest, West Ridge and South Col Attempt. An international expedition led by Pole Aleksander Lwow was composed of two Poles, a German, an Australian and three Americans. They first attempted the west ridge, where on October 2 they got to 7600 met...
La Mesa and Alma Negra, Ramada range. The Chileans C. Lucero, D. Meza, I. Morlans, N. Muñoz and P. Rosende traversed La Mesa (6230 meters, 20,440 feet) and Alma Negra (6290 meters, 20,637 feet) on February 19 and 20. No traces of the two previous ...
Silverthrone Attempt. With eight days of food and minimal gear Bruce Hickok and I left Wonder Lake for Silverthrone. We used tennis shoes and wet-suit socks to cross the mile-wide McKinley River, which provided us expected excitement. In three day...
Adamant Mountain. On August 1 George Bell with David Michael on one rope, Graham and Corky Matthews with Moses Goddard on another, and I with Rob Wallace on the third located a new route on Adamant Mountain and combined it with the first direct as...
Teng Kang Poche, ascent of the north west face (not to summit), Edge of Darkness. On October 22 British climbers Nick Bullock and Nick Carter left the tea-house at Thengbo situated approximately five hours west of Namche Bazaar, making a bivouac a...
Piergiorgio, Gringos Locos. On November 16 to 18, and again on December 7 and 8, Italians Maurizio Giordani and Gianluca Maspes climbed Gringos Locos (VII 7a A3/4). The 21-pitch route lies in the center of the northwest face, left of the Vettori-M...
Hall Peak, Skubi Ridge. The interesting north ridge of this relatively minor 5452-foot peak was first climbed July 4 by Jim Carlson, Bob Marcy, George Mattson, and me. The route begins from the low 4271-foot notch, easily reached from Silver Gulch...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. At our five meetings in 1963, we had the following talks and pictures — Boyd Everett: the first ascent of Mount McKinley’s southeast spur; Leif-Norman Patterson: the first ascent of Tullparaju in the Cordillera Blanc...
Bhrikuti, Damodar Himal. This peak is situated north of Kagbeni (and north of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri massifs). The area was opened for expeditions only in 1982. The first to obtain a permit to enter the restricted area was an 11-man Japanese...
Climber’s Guide to Pinnacles National Monumment, Second Edition. David Rubine. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, Colorado, 1995. 248 pages. $25.00.Comment: Generally succeeds in its aim to include the entire Pinnacle’s climbing experience to be a compl...
Rasac Central, West Spur. A. Antola, F. Ferraresi and A. Mantero made a new route, the west spur of Rasac Central (5617 meters, 18,429 feet) on August 5. From an average of 50°, the climb had passages of 70°.
Huascarán Norte, Northeast Ridge. Our expedition included Simon Feigelson, Michel Février, Raymond Coene, Andrzej Mroz, Jean François Porret and me as leader. Tragically Mroz was killed climbing a few days before our departure and was replaced by ...