Coast Mountains, remote areas summary. Summer 2006 was warm and dry in the Coast Mountains, but fewer adventurous parties took advantage of the fine conditions than usual.As always, the Waddington Range was the primary focus. In mid-May Simon Rich...
FROSTBITE, DEHYDRATION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTAlaska, Mount McKinleyA three member party was on the ascent of the South Buttress of Mount McKinley. On May 31 at 0900 they left for the summit from their high camp at 5500 meters. They experienced litt...
Mt. Everest: On April 3, 1933, the Marquis of Clydesdale, Lt.-Col. L. V. Stewart Blacker, Lt. D. F. McIntyre, and S. R. Bonnett flew over Mt. Everest and returned with a large number of photographs. It required three and a half hours for the round...
Man of the TrailFred StephensWhat would one not give to be young again, riding with a packtrain through the Canadian forests? To emerge from the jackpine shadow on to gravel flats beside a sparkling river. To pass through a kaleidoscopic symphony ...
Thor’s Land, Discovery Wall, Nougatocity. Josh Helling and I traveled by local boat 350+km south down the east coast of Greenland to a remote fjord in Thor’s Land. This area has numerous fjords, with walls, towers, and unique granite formations th...
DEHYDRATION–FROSTBITEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West RibAt 1600 on May 27, both members of a Spanish expedition “Dos Perdigones en la Cassin” began their ascent of the Upper West Rib. As the team approached the summit around 0500 the following mornin...
Mt. Kitchener, Rights of Passage. Somehow we had appeased the Mountain gods, for they granted us Rights of Passage. No doubt a reward for being patient while still staying keen. Alpine conditions were finally setting up, and the forecast was promi...
DURING the early summer of 1977 Boston’s Museum of Science planned to complete a two-year project of making a very precise map of Muldrow Glacier, which flows off the northeast flank of Mount McKinley in Alaska. This glacier has a history of ext...
The 2010 Braunschweiger Grönlandexpedition flew to Kulusuk on July 12, and over the next two days traveled northeast by boat and on foot (with pulks) into the mountains between Knud Rasmussen Gletscher and Kangertivartikajik Fjord. Base camp was e...
Climbs in Auyuttuq National Park, Baffin Island. On August 7, Willard Moulton, Bill Morris, Jim Osborne, Dr. Douglas Halliday, Dr. Michael Parker and I were boated to the Overlord Camp at the head of Pangnirtung Fiord. We carried our too-heavy loa...
BENJAMIN GREELY FERRIS, JR. M. D.1919-1996Ben Ferris, for more than half a century a respected member and official of the Club, died at his home in Weston, Massachusetts, on August 1. The son of General Benjamin G. and Margaret (Wright) Ferris, Be...
The South Face of DhaulagiriAn interview with Tomaž Humarby Antonella Cicogna, Italytranslated by Emanuele Pellizzari, with Christian BeckwithThe south face—or, more accurately, the south-southeast face—of Dhaulagiri I sweeps up over 4000 meters t...
Devil: The Life Story of a Chamois in the Austrian Alps, by Waldemar Schmidtman. Translated by the author. 214 pages, with numerous drawings by W. von Freyschlaz. New York: D. Appleton-Century Co.. 1936. Price $2.00.As a small boy the reviewer viv...
American Alpine Club Research FundThe American Alpine Club Research Fund was established in 1945 to promote scientific, literary, educational or historical research and publication related to mountaineering, geology or geography. The members appoi...
Hualcán Peak 5,350m (Nevado Libron), east ridge, and Huichganga, south ridge. On July 10 Dave Sykes and I (both British) made what may be the first ascent of a peak that is in the vicinity of Hualcán. The peak is on the northeast ridge of Hualcán ...
Alaska Rescue Group, Anchorage. The Alaska Rescue Group was founded as a result of the need for such an organization in the area. Hal Sherman and Johnnie Johnston called a public meeting early in 1960. Ted and Jan Koeberle, Stan and Janie Swanson,...
Everest, Scientific Expedition. Wally Berg was on Everest with a special mission: to bolt to bedrock as close as possible to the summit a GPS station from which signals can be sent to satellites and thus reveal exactly where the summit is at any g...
Chau Chau Kang Nilda. Nine climbers from Calcutta set up Base Camp at 5300 meters on June 28. On July 1, Bibhas Das, climbing leader, Swapan Banerjee, Goutam Chatterjee, Apruna Ganguly, Probir Nandan and high- altitude porter Dhan Singh gained the...
Mount Michelson, Brooks Range. On April 23, 1957, John P. Thomson, of the Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, and R. E. “Pete” Isto, resident topographic engineer with the U. S. Geological Survey, Fairbanks, made the first ascent of Mount Michelson, highe...
Paine Group, Patagonia. Although the Patagonian peaks are low when compared to the more northerly Andes, they rise sheer from sea level into murky and stormy skies and are often fantastically rugged and massive. Their glaciers end in ice cliffs in...