Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Bolivian Climbing, Overview

Bolivian Climbing, Overview. It was a dry year. The Bolivian government introduced drinking laws, which meant bars had to shut at 2 a.m. except for Saturdays and Sundays, when they shut at 3 a.m. There was also some weather, or rather a lack there...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Anyemaqen, East Face

Anyemaqen, East Face. During September and October Geof Bartram, Tim Macartney-Snape, Andrew Henderson, Charles Massy and I visited the Anyemaqen range in Qinghai province. The weather was very bad and we were able to complete only one climb, the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Argentine Patagonia, Cerro Piergiorgio, Attempt

Cerro Piergiorgio, Attempt. The esthetic Greenpeace route (7a A0, 900m) on the west flank of this peak, which has only seen two ascents since it was first climbed in the mid-1980s, saw several valiant attempts from the Swiss team of David Göttler ...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, Tahquitz Rock

California, Tahquitz Rock. On 17 September Lew Himmelrich and Steve Himmelrich (14) had been climbing for about three hours and decided to come down for lunch as they were just out to practice. They had made two rappels and were making the third w...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Garhwal, Kamet West Face and West Ridge

Kamet, West Face and West Ridge. Our joint Indian Army and French Army expedition climbed a new route on Kamet. We left the roadhead at Mana on August 27. After many porterage problems, we set up Base Camp on the Pachham Kamet Glacier at 5300 mete...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, St. Elias and Other Peaks

St. Elias and Other Peaks. Shortly before the Editor received the sad news that in September the prominent Czech climber Mirosla v Šmid had been killed soloing on Lost Arrow Spire in Yosemite, he got a letter from Šmid, telling that with Swiss fri...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Great Trango Tower and Trango (Nameless) Tower, Attempts Pakistan, Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh

Miles Smart on the last headwall on the Great Trango Tower during the second attempt to climb the southwest ridge. Photo by Timmy O'Neill. During July and August, Miles Smart and I spent almost 50 days camped atop a lateral moraine on the Tra...

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| Published 2000 | Author Timmy O'Neill


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kwangde Nup, North Buttress

Kwangde Nup, North Buttress. In the pre-monsoon period, Alex Lowe and I climbed a new grade-VI route on Kwangde Nup to the right of the one done by Jeff Lowe and David Breashears in 1982. Our route followed the north buttress, which is simply an e...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Everest, West Ridge and South-Col Attempt

Everest, West Ridge and South Col Attempt. An international expedition led by Pole Aleksander Lwow was composed of two Poles, a German, an Australian and three Americans. They first attempted the west ridge, where on October 2 they got to 7600 met...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, La Mesa and Alma Negra, Ramada Range

La Mesa and Alma Negra, Ramada range. The Chileans C. Lucero, D. Meza, I. Morlans, N. Muñoz and P. Rosende traversed La Mesa (6230 meters, 20,440 feet) and Alma Negra (6290 meters, 20,637 feet) on February 19 and 20. No traces of the two previous ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Silverthrone Attempt

Silverthrone Attempt. With eight days of food and minimal gear Bruce Hickok and I left Wonder Lake for Silverthrone. We used tennis shoes and wet-suit socks to cross the mile-wide McKinley River, which provided us expected excitement. In three day...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Selkirks, Adamant Mountain

Adamant Mountain. On August 1 George Bell with David Michael on one rope, Graham and Corky Matthews with Moses Goddard on another, and I with Rob Wallace on the third located a new route on Adamant Mountain and combined it with the first direct as...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Khumbu Region, Mahalangur Himal, Teng Kang Poche, Ascent of the North West Face (Not to Summit), Edge of Darkness

Teng Kang Poche, ascent of the north west face (not to summit), Edge of Darkness. On October 22 British climbers Nick Bullock and Nick Carter left the tea-house at Thengbo situated approximately five hours west of Namche Bazaar, making a bivouac a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine and Chilean Patagonia, Piergiorgio, Gringos Locos

Piergiorgio, Gringos Locos. On November 16 to 18, and again on December 7 and 8, Italians Maurizio Giordani and Gianluca Maspes climbed Gringos Locos (VII 7a A3/4). The 21-pitch route lies in the center of the northwest face, left of the Vettori-M...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington—Cascade Mountains, Hall Peak, Skubi Ridge

Hall Peak, Skubi Ridge. The interesting north ridge of this relatively minor 5452-foot peak was first climbed July 4 by Jim Carlson, Bob Marcy, George Mattson, and me. The route begins from the low 4271-foot notch, easily reached from Silver Gulch...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section

A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. At our five meetings in 1963, we had the following talks and pictures — Boyd Everett: the first ascent of Mount McKinley’s southeast spur; Leif-Norman Patterson: the first ascent of Tullparaju in the Cordillera Blanc...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Bhrikuti, Damodar Himal

Bhrikuti, Damodar Himal. This peak is situated north of Kagbeni (and north of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri massifs). The area was opened for expeditions only in 1982. The first to obtain a permit to enter the restricted area was an 11-man Japanese...


Book Reviews AAJ
Climber's Guide to Pinnacles National Monument, Second Edition

Climber’s Guide to Pinnacles National Monumment, Second Edition. David Rubine. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, Colorado, 1995. 248 pages. $25.00.Comment: Generally succeeds in its aim to include the entire Pinnacle’s climbing experience to be a compl...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru–Cordillera Huayhuash, Rasac Central, West Spur

Rasac Central, West Spur. A. Antola, F. Ferraresi and A. Mantero made a new route, the west spur of Rasac Central (5617 meters, 18,429 feet) on August 5. From an average of 50°, the climb had passages of 70°.


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huascarán Norte, Northeast Ridge

Huascarán Norte, Northeast Ridge. Our expedition included Simon Feigelson, Michel Février, Raymond Coene, Andrzej Mroz, Jean François Porret and me as leader. Tragically Mroz was killed climbing a few days before our departure and was replaced by ...