Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, Ship's Prow

Ship’s Prow. Ship’s Prow, directly southwest of Chasm Lake under Longs Peak, now provides an increasing variety of shorter and off-day climbs. On July 6 Bob Boucher and I made the first ascent of the Portal, a route of sustained difficulty that fo...


Notes AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Useful Information

Useful information: To oversimplify, the biggest climbs in the Cordillera Real, as well as the best new material, will be found on the eastern side. This is inconvenient because most approaches are from the west; too, east-side weather is not as g...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California-Sierra Nevada, Mount Stewart, Dawn Pillar

Mount Stewart, Dawn Pillar. On June 17, David Wilson and I ascended a new route on Mount Stewart’s north face. We began climbing on the steepest section of this face, following jam-cracks up the left side of a small pillar directly underneath the ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Kashmir and Ladakh, Kijai Nala. Kishtwar Himal, 1976

Kijai Nala, Kishtwar Himal, 1979. A Polish expedition, led by Krzysztof Lozinski, in 1979 visited the Kijai Nala. After a difficult approach, Base Camp was set up on September 6, 1979 at 10,825 feet, and Camps I and II at 13,800 and 17,725 feet on...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Antarctic Peninsula, Cape Renard Tower, Attempt, and Pt. 3,600', Ascent

Cape Renard Tower, Attempt, and Pt. 3,600', Ascent. Our goal was to attempt the first ascent of the north face of Cape Renard Tower (747m) located on the west side of the Antarctic Peninsula. Cape Renard Tower has been climbed twice before, once b...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Mount Assiniboine, East Face

Mount Assiniboine, East Face. On August 31 and September 1, Bill Davidson and I made the first ascent of the east face of Assiniboine. The route follows a prominent rib straight up to the summit and avoids the iced walls which impressed Chris Jone...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Hidden Peak, Ski Descent

Hidden Peak, Ski Descent. After arriving at Base Camp at 17,050 feet on May 15, four French and Swiss climbers, Sylvain Saudain, Jean Pierre 01- lagnier, Daniel Semblanet and Marie José Valençot, and high-altitude porter Mohammad Ali climbed Hidde...


Book Reviews AAJ
Die Schweiz zur Rentierzeit

Die Schweiz zur Rentierzeit, by Hans-Georg Bandi. 219 pages, with many illustrations and maps. Frauenfeld: Verlag Huber, 1947. Price, $3.00.If one draws a line through the western tips of the Lakes of Geneva and Constance, it will roughly indicate...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Grand Teton, First Ski Descent

Grand Teton, First Ski Descent. William M. Briggs and Robbie Garrett ascended the Grand Teton on June 16 via the couloir between the Petzoldt and Underhill ridges, carrying skis. A single 100-foot rock pitch placed them on top of the Underhill rid...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Kumbhakarna, Winter Ascent

Kumbakharna, Winter Ascent. South Koreans led by Kim Ki-Heyg made a successful 1984-85 winter ascent of Kumbhakarna (Jannu). One member and two Sherpas reached the summit by the southwest ridge.Elizabeth Hawley


Notes AAJ
United States, Idaho: First Ascents in the Sawtooth Range

Idaho: First Ascents in the Sawtooth Range. On 13 June 1948 an eight-man party assembled at Redfish Lake, took a motorboat to the S. end, and made a base camp on Redfish Creek beneath Mt. Heyburn. Present were Joe Hieb, Ralph Widrig, Jack Schwabla...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chilean and Argentine Patagonia, Southern Patagonian Icecap

Southern Patagonian Icecap. Toshio Takeuchi, Takeo Tsuzuki and Takeo Yoshizawa, son of our assistant editor and vice-president of the Japanese Alpine Club, made a north-south crossing of the Southern Patagonian Icecap from Fiordo Falcón to Fiordo ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Dhhun, First Ascent

Dhhun, First Ascent. Dhhun (6200m), which means “guardian,” was first climbed in August via the north face by a Japanese expedition led by Tsuneo Suzuki. The top was thought to have been reached on August 6 by three members and three high-altitude...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Buni Zom Group

Buni Zom Group. The Swallow Club of Tokyo consisted of Masato Nakamura, leader, Hiroyuku Nakamura, Kazushi Takahashi, and Takashi Shimizu; they had proper permission. They tried the main peak of Buni Zom from the west but were stopped by a 1350-fo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, K2 Attempt

K2 Attempt. A large part of the international group led by Stefan Wömer attempted to climb K2 by the Abruzzi ridge. Four Polish women, Wanda Rutkiewicz, Krystyna Palmowska, Anna Czerwinska and Dobroslawa Miodowicz- Wolf, worked with Austrian Peter...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine—Chilean Patagonia, Cerro Cervantes

Cerro Cervantes. Sam Grubenhof and I arrived at Calafate on February 12. We hoped to find a way to the Glaciar Moreno and across the Brazo Rico to attempt Cerro Cervantes, which we believed was an unclimbed 7819-foot (2383-meter) peak below which ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Mount Kinesava, West Face, First One-Day Ascent

Mount Kinesava, West Face, First One-Day Ascent. On March 15, Drew Spaulding, Jon Allen and I climbed the King’s Corner in 13 hours, down-rating it from 5.10 A3+ to 5.11 A2.Doug Byerly, loosely affiliated


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Kanjut Sar II

Kanjut Sar II. On July 29, we made the second ascent of Kanjut Sar II (6831 meters, 22,411 feet) by a new route, the south buttress. The peak had been climbed by Swiss in 1985 by the northwest side. We were Frank Schmidt, Franck van den Barselaer,...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Far West Asia, Nepal, Raksha Urai, First Ascent and Tragedy

Raksha Urai, first ascent and tragedy. In the remote Api-Nampa-Saipal region of Far West Nepal, there is a small north-south range of mountains named Raksha Urai, which consists of several peaks (see note below). The highest of the group is Raksha...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow, Pneumothorax, Alaska, Mount McKinley, Karsten's Ridge

FALL ON SNOW, PNEUMOTHORAXAlaska, Mount McKinley, Karstens’ RidgeJonathan Giesen’s (25) accident happened July 5 at 2200. We summitted the previous day (July 4), arriving back at high camp at 1850. We slept in on the morning of the fifth, relaxed,...