Ship’s Prow. Ship’s Prow, directly southwest of Chasm Lake under Longs Peak, now provides an increasing variety of shorter and off-day climbs. On July 6 Bob Boucher and I made the first ascent of the Portal, a route of sustained difficulty that fo...
Useful information: To oversimplify, the biggest climbs in the Cordillera Real, as well as the best new material, will be found on the eastern side. This is inconvenient because most approaches are from the west; too, east-side weather is not as g...
Mount Stewart, Dawn Pillar. On June 17, David Wilson and I ascended a new route on Mount Stewart’s north face. We began climbing on the steepest section of this face, following jam-cracks up the left side of a small pillar directly underneath the ...
Kijai Nala, Kishtwar Himal, 1979. A Polish expedition, led by Krzysztof Lozinski, in 1979 visited the Kijai Nala. After a difficult approach, Base Camp was set up on September 6, 1979 at 10,825 feet, and Camps I and II at 13,800 and 17,725 feet on...
Cape Renard Tower, Attempt, and Pt. 3,600', Ascent. Our goal was to attempt the first ascent of the north face of Cape Renard Tower (747m) located on the west side of the Antarctic Peninsula. Cape Renard Tower has been climbed twice before, once b...
Mount Assiniboine, East Face. On August 31 and September 1, Bill Davidson and I made the first ascent of the east face of Assiniboine. The route follows a prominent rib straight up to the summit and avoids the iced walls which impressed Chris Jone...
Hidden Peak, Ski Descent. After arriving at Base Camp at 17,050 feet on May 15, four French and Swiss climbers, Sylvain Saudain, Jean Pierre 01- lagnier, Daniel Semblanet and Marie José Valençot, and high-altitude porter Mohammad Ali climbed Hidde...
Die Schweiz zur Rentierzeit, by Hans-Georg Bandi. 219 pages, with many illustrations and maps. Frauenfeld: Verlag Huber, 1947. Price, $3.00.If one draws a line through the western tips of the Lakes of Geneva and Constance, it will roughly indicate...
Grand Teton, First Ski Descent. William M. Briggs and Robbie Garrett ascended the Grand Teton on June 16 via the couloir between the Petzoldt and Underhill ridges, carrying skis. A single 100-foot rock pitch placed them on top of the Underhill rid...
Kumbakharna, Winter Ascent. South Koreans led by Kim Ki-Heyg made a successful 1984-85 winter ascent of Kumbhakarna (Jannu). One member and two Sherpas reached the summit by the southwest ridge.Elizabeth Hawley
Idaho: First Ascents in the Sawtooth Range. On 13 June 1948 an eight-man party assembled at Redfish Lake, took a motorboat to the S. end, and made a base camp on Redfish Creek beneath Mt. Heyburn. Present were Joe Hieb, Ralph Widrig, Jack Schwabla...
Southern Patagonian Icecap. Toshio Takeuchi, Takeo Tsuzuki and Takeo Yoshizawa, son of our assistant editor and vice-president of the Japanese Alpine Club, made a north-south crossing of the Southern Patagonian Icecap from Fiordo Falcón to Fiordo ...
Dhhun, First Ascent. Dhhun (6200m), which means “guardian,” was first climbed in August via the north face by a Japanese expedition led by Tsuneo Suzuki. The top was thought to have been reached on August 6 by three members and three high-altitude...
Buni Zom Group. The Swallow Club of Tokyo consisted of Masato Nakamura, leader, Hiroyuku Nakamura, Kazushi Takahashi, and Takashi Shimizu; they had proper permission. They tried the main peak of Buni Zom from the west but were stopped by a 1350-fo...
K2 Attempt. A large part of the international group led by Stefan Wömer attempted to climb K2 by the Abruzzi ridge. Four Polish women, Wanda Rutkiewicz, Krystyna Palmowska, Anna Czerwinska and Dobroslawa Miodowicz- Wolf, worked with Austrian Peter...
Cerro Cervantes. Sam Grubenhof and I arrived at Calafate on February 12. We hoped to find a way to the Glaciar Moreno and across the Brazo Rico to attempt Cerro Cervantes, which we believed was an unclimbed 7819-foot (2383-meter) peak below which ...
Mount Kinesava, West Face, First One-Day Ascent. On March 15, Drew Spaulding, Jon Allen and I climbed the King’s Corner in 13 hours, down-rating it from 5.10 A3+ to 5.11 A2.Doug Byerly, loosely affiliated
Kanjut Sar II. On July 29, we made the second ascent of Kanjut Sar II (6831 meters, 22,411 feet) by a new route, the south buttress. The peak had been climbed by Swiss in 1985 by the northwest side. We were Frank Schmidt, Franck van den Barselaer,...
Raksha Urai, first ascent and tragedy. In the remote Api-Nampa-Saipal region of Far West Nepal, there is a small north-south range of mountains named Raksha Urai, which consists of several peaks (see note below). The highest of the group is Raksha...
FALL ON SNOW, PNEUMOTHORAXAlaska, Mount McKinley, Karstens’ RidgeJonathan Giesen’s (25) accident happened July 5 at 2200. We summitted the previous day (July 4), arriving back at high camp at 1850. We slept in on the morning of the fifth, relaxed,...