Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
First Ascents and Exploration Alaska, Neacola Mountains

On April 21 Gerard van den Berg and I installed camp at the top of the Pitchfork glacial cirque [They initially reported being on the North Fork Glacier, but their maps and coordinates show the Pitchfork, which drains to the Glacier Fork of the Tl...

| Published 2009 | Author Curro González


Book Reviews AAJ
Climber's Guide to Devil's Lake

Climber’s Guide to Devil’s Lake. Sven Olof Swartling, Second Edition, revised, enlarged. University of Wisconsin Press, 1995. Paper, 59 diagrams, 11 maps, 22 photos. 254 pages. $16.95.Comment: Much expanded over the 1979 edition, and climbs are fi...


Club Activities AAJ
The Colorado College Mountain Club

The Colorado College Mountain Club. The year 1965 marked the 20th anniversary for the dub. Following the custom established over the past years, we continued to hold our weekly meetings and week-end climbs in the Colorado Rockies. The Pikes Peak a...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru–Cordillera Huayhuash, Jirishanca Chico and Ninashanca

Jirishanca Chico and Ninashanca. Italians, E. Rosso, G. Lanza and E. Contini, climbed the southeast face of Jirishanca Chico (5427 meters, 17,805 feet) by a new route on the southeast face, which went up 1000 feet of icefall and then up 1650 feet ...


In Memoriam AAJ
George Marston Weed, 1864-1948

GEORGE MARSTON WEED 1864-1948Half a century ago George Weed was one of the most active members of the Appalachian Club. His introduction to the Canadian Rockies he owed to C. S. Thompson. In his first season, 1898, he made the first ascent of Moun...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Ancohuma, Illampu, Illimani, Cordillera Real, and Sajama

Ancohuma, Illampu, Illimani, Cordillera Real, and Sajama. In the first part of our stay in Bolivia we intended to climb peaks in the Cordillera Real. Horst Caha and I traveled by truck to Sorata in the northern portion of the range, hoping to clim...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huascarán

Huascarán. In early July Dave King, Brian Gregory, Jerry Martens, and I retreated from the southwest ridge of Huascarán. We marched around the mountain and five days later found ourselves on the summit via the standard route.Tom Limp, Freelance Al...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Cascade Section

United States: Activities of the ClubsA.A.C., Cascade Section. As usual, the Section enjoyed an active year. Several members attended the annual outings of the A.C.C. and the Mountaineers at Mt. Robson. Fred Ayres and Don Woods made a number of fi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Ama Dablam Attempts

Ama Dablam Attempts. Swiss Ivano Regazzoni, Athos Balestra and Franco Dellatorre attempted the north ridge of Ama Dablam but could get no higher than 5700 meters on October 14. South Koreans led by Lee Hun-Sang were also unsuccessful, attempting t...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Nut Pulled Out, Wisconsin, Devil's Lake State Park

FALL ON ROCK, NUT PULLED OUTWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn August 9, 1985, a man (27) was climbing Congratulations (F9, 5.10) when he was injured in a leader fall. He took two short falls at the crux move, and both were held by a #7 stopper....


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Climbing Alone and Unroped, Maine, Camden, The Ramparts

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDMaine, Camden, The RampartsI think of the accident described here as the case of the wet ladder. On March 17, my girlfriend’s dog, Kaya, and I, Ryan J. Howes (22), went on a 1.0 mile hike to a local climbing...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Argentine Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Cerro Pollone, Lower South Buttress of East Summit; Beg, Borrow or Steal

Cerro Pollone, lower south buttress of east summit; Beg, Borrow, or Steal. Blair Williams and I arrived in El Chalten on January 7. The next day we arranged for horses to carry our bags to Piedra del Fraile, our planned base camp and a pleasant pl...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Southern Peru, Sahuasiray Group, Cordillera Urubamba

Sahuasiray Group, Cordillera Urubamba. Robin Hildrew, John Turner, Paul Krebs, David Winser, Beryl Griffiths and Bruce Grierson of the Andean Society climbed two peaks above Wasanqocha in the Quebrada Humanchoque: P 16,250, a rock peak previously ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Ice, Climbing Alone and Unroped, Weather, New Hampshire, Willey Slide

FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, WEATHER New Hampshire, Willey SlideOn November 17, 1987, Brian Donleavy (20) was found near the base of Willey Slide by members of the New Hampshire Mountain Rescue Service. He had been reported missing by ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow—Ski Mountaineering, Inadequate Equipment for the Conditions, Oregon, Mount Hood, Reid Glacier

FALL ON SNOW-SKI MOUNTAINEERING, INADEQUATE EQUPMENT FOR THE CONDITIONSOregon, Mount Hood, Reid GlacierOn May 6, four experienced climbers were circumnavigating Mount Hood (crossing Yokum Ridge) at the 7,600-foot elevation when telemark skier Jere...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri, Winter Ascent

Dhaulagiri, Winter Ascent. Jerzy Kukuczka and Leszek Czok reached the summit of Dhaulagiri by the north face on the 1984-5 winter season, but Czok got frostbitten toes as the result of a bivouac made on the night after reaching the summit when the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, U.S., Wyoming, Tetons, Northern Peaks

Northern Peaks. The northern section of the range has been little climbed and several unclimbed peaks still remain. On July 27th and 28th, 1953, Leigh Ortenburger and Bill Buckingham made the first ascents of the unnamed peaks, 10,950 feet and 11,...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Waterfall Climbs

Waterfall Climbs, Canadian Rockies. On March 22,I made what is perhaps only the second on-sight solo of the formidable Canadian Rockies’ alpine waterfall “Slipstream,” taking four hours for the Grade V ascent. Marc Twight made the first on-sight s...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Broken Rock Flake, Alaska, Mount Johnson

FALL ON ROCK, BROKEN ROCK FLAKE Alaska, Mount JohnsonOn July 12, 1989, Seth Shaw (31) and Bob Ingle were attempting a new route on the East Buttress of Mount johnson in the Ruth Gorge. They were about 300 meters above the Ruth Glacier by 1600. Sha...


In Memoriam AAJ
Allan Bard, 1952-1997

ALLAN BARD1952-1997Allan Bard died on July 5 from injuries sustained in a 200-foot fall while leading a climb of the Owen-Spalding Route on the Grand Teton in Wyoming.A 20-year resident of the Eastern Sierra and 15-year resident of Bishop, Allan w...