Mount Stuart, North Buttress Variation. Completed by Jay Ossiander and me in July 1970. Starting from the very lowest point on the north buttress, 100 feet of third class leads to a broken ledge crossing the bottom of the buttress. We then started...
Himalaya, Kula Kangri (7,538m), attempt and tragedy. In the autumn Kazuhiro Takahashi led a seven-member expedition to Kula Kangri. The plan was to make the first ascent of the unclimbed north ridge and also the first traverse of East, Central, an...
Mt. Barille, East Face, Attempt. Silvo Karo (Slovenia) and Jerry Gore (U.K.) attempted a new line on Mt. Barille’s east face. They landed below the face on June 2, but bad weather prevented them from climbing until June 11. They fixed some ropes o...
Jirishanca, West Face. Our expedition was supported by the Universities of Madrid and Granada. On July 2 Eloy Linares, Santiago Barrios, José Antonio Menéndez and I, supported by Joaquín Susino and Antonio Lorente, completed the second ascent of t...
Yanapaccha, Northwest Couloir, Pisco, South Face, Chacraraju Attempt and Taulliraju, South-Southeast Ridge. Our expedition consisted of Jean-Paul Balmat, Daniel Monaci, Hervé Thivierge and me. We chose a very early date and the weather really turn...
Correction. In the A.A.J., 1964, 14:1, p. 226 there should have been an x after 54. Skyang Kangri to indicate that this peak was unclimbed.
Peshastin Pinnacles, Martian Tower. The prominent diagonal crack on the west face of this tower between Orchard Rock and Dinosaur Tower was neglected until this year. The route was climbed in early January by Fred Stanley and David Beckstead and p...
FALL ON ROCK-HAND-HOLD BROKE OFFNevada, Red Rock National Conservation Area, Magic BusAbout noon on April 18, L.C., an experienced local climber (25), was leading Blonde Dwarf (5.10) on the Magic Bus, in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation A...
Everest, rescue of Lincoln Hall, Alex Abramov response. The leader of Lincoln Hall’s expedition was the Russian, Alex Abramov, who in a reply to Dan Mazur’s report above noted that Lincoln Hall began to have problems at around 10 a.m. on May 25 af...
Masherbrum, West Ridge via Northwest Face Attempt. The team consisted of Peter Absolon, David Irwin, Marco Cornacchione, and Gary Wilmot. Base Camp was placed on the Mundu Glacier at 14,000 feet on June 12. Camps I and II were situated at 17,000 f...
Alpenbock Climbing Club. The year 1962 was a busy one for the Alpenbock Climbing Club, which is located in Salt Lake City, Utah. Close to home, late snows permitted several cross-country ski tours as late as May 30 in the Alta area, and considerab...
Mount Sir Donald, First Winter Ascent. For a number of years I had in mind the first winter ascent of Mount Sir Donald. Donald Liska, Dave Beckstead, Alex Bertulis and I left the Illecillewat campground on March 19 and proceeded to the slopes just...
California, Sierra Nevada, Banner Peak. On September 2 Robert Elliott (33) and Nick Ellena (32) left their camp at Lake Ediza early in the morning. They planned to climb nearby Mt. Ritter (13,157 ft.) and Banner Peak (12,957 ft.). The pair soon di...
Oregon, various activity. On Mt. Hood’s Illumination Rock, on April 24 Mike Layton and Marcus Donaldson climbed a route that starts to the left of the south chamber on the south face of the southwest ridge. It follows a series of chimneys and crac...
Yashek Valley. A scientific expedition was sent to the Yashek valley in the Zebak group of the northeastern Hindu Kush by the University of Gdansk, Poland. The leader was Krzysztof Petelski. They were in the region from July 22 until August 16. Th...
Annapurna I. Our expedition was composed of Gustav Harder, leader, Dr. Werner Müller-Esterl, Wolfgang Brög, Erika Heimrath, Klaus Harder, Thomas Hummler, Konrad Staltmayr and me. We left Pokhara on March 24 with 185 porters. After the difficult cr...
Vermilion Cliffs, More Sand Than Stone. Climbing.com and Alpinist.com reported that, in March, Fitz Cahall, James Q Martin, and Albert Newman made the first free ascent of the 1,600-vertical-foot Tooth Rock in Arizona’s remote Vermilion Cliffs. Mo...
AVALANCHEAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount Rundle, Professor FallsOn March 23, a party of two was climbing Professor Falls (280 m. III WI4) and had just finished the technical lower pitches. They were walking roped together towards the last pitc...
Nepalese Mountain Guide School. The Alpine Federation of Yugoslavia and the Nepal Mountaineering Association have successfully begun the School of Mountain Guides. In the Marsyandi valley between Pisang and Braga at 10,000 feet a building for 40 t...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. The section held five meetings during 1963. President Carlton Fuller visited us early in January and contributed significantly in our business meeting. Jim Whittaker, Luther Jerstad, and Barry Bishop gave us a preview of t...