Nevado Payachata, Northern Andes. B. Coloseo, E. Novoa and N. Soto, made on Dec. 5, 1973 the fifth ascent, all on ice, of Nevado Payachata (6330 meters, 20,768 feet), finding on the top records of previous Chilean expeditions.Rafael Martínez, Fede...
SLIP ON ICE, NO HARD HATWashington, Mount BakerWhile descending Mount baker around 2000 meters via Coleman-Deming Glacier on September 9, Steven Amber (27), Vincent Willard (25) and Reese White (29) approached the last slope directly above their t...
Nameless Tower, Trango Group. A Spanish expedition made another new and very difficult route on the Nameless Tower. It rises between the 1987 Franco-Swiss route (Delale, Fauquet, Piola, Schaffter) and the 1976 British route (Anthoine, Brown, Boyse...
Trisul. Five Americans, Phillip Trimble, Bruce Carson, Dan Emmett, Frank Morgan, and Dutchman Hans Bruyntjes left Delhi on August 15, arriving in Lata on August 18, and at Trisul Base Camp (15,100 feet) on August 25. We moved to Camp I at 17,100 f...
Foraker, Southeast Ridge. Günther Fluhrer, Herbert Karasek, Dr. Fritz Weidman and I climbed Foraker’s southeast ridge alpine-style, following the 1963 route, from Base Camp on the west side of the Kahiltna Glacier. Camp I was above the toe where t...
Igloo on Mount Robson. The Edmonton Section of the Alpine Club of Canada has completed the installation of a fiberglass igloo on Mount Robson. The hut is 14 feet in diameter and lies at 8400 feet on the south- southwest ridge above Kinney Lake, 10...
RAPPEL ERROR—ONLY CONNECTED TO ONE STRAND OF RAPPEL ROPEAlaska, Anchorage, Hunter CreekOn January 21, Evan Blanchard (20) had climbed to the top of a 150 foot frozen waterfall, and then he and his two partners looped their rope around a tree at th...
Langmoche Ri (6,811m), attempt. Langmoche Ri lies northwest of the Khumbu village of Thami. Two Americans, William (“Rusty”) Escapule and Tom Togami, first went to acclimatize on nearby Parchermo. There had been heavy snowfall for two days just be...
Fitz Roy Attempt. In February 1994, Waldo Farias and I attempted Fitz Roy. On February 12 we managed to climb the Franco-Argentine route to the end of the difficulties but failed to reach the summit.Pablo Besser Jirkal, Argentina
Mount Bressler, Northern Boundary Range. The unexplored reaches of the Juneau Icefield are transected by the Alaskan-British Columbian boundary. Here a series of isolated and spectacular nunatak peaks at elevations of 7000 to 8600 feet rise out of...
Mount Stuart, North Buttress Variation. Completed by Jay Ossiander and me in July 1970. Starting from the very lowest point on the north buttress, 100 feet of third class leads to a broken ledge crossing the bottom of the buttress. We then started...
Himalaya, Kula Kangri (7,538m), attempt and tragedy. In the autumn Kazuhiro Takahashi led a seven-member expedition to Kula Kangri. The plan was to make the first ascent of the unclimbed north ridge and also the first traverse of East, Central, an...
Mt. Barille, East Face, Attempt. Silvo Karo (Slovenia) and Jerry Gore (U.K.) attempted a new line on Mt. Barille’s east face. They landed below the face on June 2, but bad weather prevented them from climbing until June 11. They fixed some ropes o...
Jirishanca, West Face. Our expedition was supported by the Universities of Madrid and Granada. On July 2 Eloy Linares, Santiago Barrios, José Antonio Menéndez and I, supported by Joaquín Susino and Antonio Lorente, completed the second ascent of t...
Yanapaccha, Northwest Couloir, Pisco, South Face, Chacraraju Attempt and Taulliraju, South-Southeast Ridge. Our expedition consisted of Jean-Paul Balmat, Daniel Monaci, Hervé Thivierge and me. We chose a very early date and the weather really turn...
Correction. In the A.A.J., 1964, 14:1, p. 226 there should have been an x after 54. Skyang Kangri to indicate that this peak was unclimbed.
Peshastin Pinnacles, Martian Tower. The prominent diagonal crack on the west face of this tower between Orchard Rock and Dinosaur Tower was neglected until this year. The route was climbed in early January by Fred Stanley and David Beckstead and p...
FALL ON ROCK-HAND-HOLD BROKE OFFNevada, Red Rock National Conservation Area, Magic BusAbout noon on April 18, L.C., an experienced local climber (25), was leading Blonde Dwarf (5.10) on the Magic Bus, in the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation A...
Everest, rescue of Lincoln Hall, Alex Abramov response. The leader of Lincoln Hall’s expedition was the Russian, Alex Abramov, who in a reply to Dan Mazur’s report above noted that Lincoln Hall began to have problems at around 10 a.m. on May 25 af...
Masherbrum, West Ridge via Northwest Face Attempt. The team consisted of Peter Absolon, David Irwin, Marco Cornacchione, and Gary Wilmot. Base Camp was placed on the Mundu Glacier at 14,000 feet on June 12. Camps I and II were situated at 17,000 f...