Deborah, Attempt from Yanert Glacier. Bob Hyslop, leader, Joe Throop, Omar Hansen and I were landed by Cliff Hudson on May 16 on the Yanert Glacier at 6500 feet, a half-mile from the great icefall. We were surprised to find an Alaskan party of thr...
Bear, Bona and “Super Cub Peak,” St. Elias Mountains. After receiving word that our landing site in the eastern Alaska Range was out of shape, we scrambled for a new destination. On May 29, Doug Barlow and I were landed on the eastern fork of the ...
Cerro Torre, A la Recherche du Temps Perdu and the Ragni di Lecco route. In early January, taking 32 hours base-to-summit and two days round-trip from their bivy, Kelly Cordes and Colin Haley made the first link-up of A la Recherche du Temps Perdu...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. Membership during 1981 continued to grow with many new novice as well as experienced climbers participating in club activities. In addition to the customary crags of New Hampshire, Connecticut, and New York, weekly beg...
Cat’s Ears Spire, Hainabrakk East Tower, and Shipton Spire, Ascents. In July and August, Mike Pennings and Jonathan Copp took advantage of brief weather windows and a lightweight approach to climb three routes, two of which were new and one of whi...
Kusum Kanguru. Swiss climbers Ruedi and Urs Homberger and Christian Jaggi made a rapid ascent of Kusum Kanguru.
New Route, Glenwood Canyon. In August, Harvey Carter and I completed The Internationale, the longest and most sustained route in Glenwood Canyon to date. It consisted of 18 pitches of climbing; many of these were 5.8 or 5.9, and there is one 60-fo...
Everest Attempt. Briton Jonathan Pratt attempted Everest without teammates or Sherpas, but he could hardly have been said to have been climbing solo since eight other expeditions were on the same route. Indeed, he made use of other people’s tents,...
FALL ON ICE, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED, INEXPERIENCE Washington, Morning Star PeakOn June 26, 1988, Larry Wallinger (41) left home at 0930 to practice using his new ice ax and crampons. He was teaching himself how to climb from the textbook Freed...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. During 1952 the Chicago Mountaineering Club activities were concentrated on local outings. Eleven were scheduled with a total attendance of 239 members and 184 guests.Thirteen members of the Club attended the Mount Ass...
Nevado Payachata, Northern Andes. B. Coloseo, E. Novoa and N. Soto, made on Dec. 5, 1973 the fifth ascent, all on ice, of Nevado Payachata (6330 meters, 20,768 feet), finding on the top records of previous Chilean expeditions.Rafael Martínez, Fede...
SLIP ON ICE, NO HARD HATWashington, Mount BakerWhile descending Mount baker around 2000 meters via Coleman-Deming Glacier on September 9, Steven Amber (27), Vincent Willard (25) and Reese White (29) approached the last slope directly above their t...
Nameless Tower, Trango Group. A Spanish expedition made another new and very difficult route on the Nameless Tower. It rises between the 1987 Franco-Swiss route (Delale, Fauquet, Piola, Schaffter) and the 1976 British route (Anthoine, Brown, Boyse...
Trisul. Five Americans, Phillip Trimble, Bruce Carson, Dan Emmett, Frank Morgan, and Dutchman Hans Bruyntjes left Delhi on August 15, arriving in Lata on August 18, and at Trisul Base Camp (15,100 feet) on August 25. We moved to Camp I at 17,100 f...
Foraker, Southeast Ridge. Günther Fluhrer, Herbert Karasek, Dr. Fritz Weidman and I climbed Foraker’s southeast ridge alpine-style, following the 1963 route, from Base Camp on the west side of the Kahiltna Glacier. Camp I was above the toe where t...
Igloo on Mount Robson. The Edmonton Section of the Alpine Club of Canada has completed the installation of a fiberglass igloo on Mount Robson. The hut is 14 feet in diameter and lies at 8400 feet on the south- southwest ridge above Kinney Lake, 10...
RAPPEL ERROR—ONLY CONNECTED TO ONE STRAND OF RAPPEL ROPEAlaska, Anchorage, Hunter CreekOn January 21, Evan Blanchard (20) had climbed to the top of a 150 foot frozen waterfall, and then he and his two partners looped their rope around a tree at th...
Langmoche Ri (6,811m), attempt. Langmoche Ri lies northwest of the Khumbu village of Thami. Two Americans, William (“Rusty”) Escapule and Tom Togami, first went to acclimatize on nearby Parchermo. There had been heavy snowfall for two days just be...
Fitz Roy Attempt. In February 1994, Waldo Farias and I attempted Fitz Roy. On February 12 we managed to climb the Franco-Argentine route to the end of the difficulties but failed to reach the summit.Pablo Besser Jirkal, Argentina
Mount Bressler, Northern Boundary Range. The unexplored reaches of the Juneau Icefield are transected by the Alaskan-British Columbian boundary. Here a series of isolated and spectacular nunatak peaks at elevations of 7000 to 8600 feet rise out of...