Alpamayo. On August 20 we climbed Alpamayo. Vitaliano Alvarón was on my rope* and Basques Emilio Hernando and Juan San Sebastián were on the other. Camp was on the north col. We left camp at six A.M., a little late because it had been snowing befo...
Longs Peak. On July 13 James Burbank and I added another new route to the East Face. Ours, the “Shining Slab”, follows the second major crack system north of the Diagonal Route and is about a rope-length south of Field’s Chimney. We climbed a sing...
Sancayuni West Face. Look up the Río Chekapa lobe of the Linco Valley and you will see Sancayuni (c. 5400 meters, 17,717 feet) with a west face half hanging glacier and half rock. On a Sunday last summer, Dave Bishop, Frank Zafran and I did the ha...
San Rafael Swell, Cinquenta Tower. On November 3, the day after my 50th birthday, Tim Toula and I made the first ascent of this tower. Paul Ross and I had climbed the first two pitches the day before. The flat-topped tower is located on the north ...
Colquecruz, Jatunriti, Cordillera Vilcanota. Detailed information is not yet available about the Rikkyo University expedition to the Cordillera Vilcanota. The leader was Yoshihiro Takiguchi and the members were Takeo Shimomura, Terashima, Ishizuka...
Mount Goode, Northeast Buttress, First Winter Ascent. On February 26 Cliff Courtney dropped Steve Mazzioli and me at the end of the plowed Stehekin River road, where we began the ski-in to Goode. Three days later we reached the valley beneath the ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE TIE-IN FOR LOWERING, NO HARD HATColorado, Clear Creek Canyon, Cat SlabOn April 24, Heather Lower (25) died in Clear Creek Canyon. She was climbing west of Tunnel 5. (A few areas there include: Cat Slab, Dog House, Primo Wa...
Consummate Corner, Patricia Bowl. While ski touring in Patricia Bowl, above the 10,000-foot road in Rock Creek Canyon, I spotted a wall of granite crags that were hidden from the road. In July, David Wilson and I hiked into the cirque in just half...
British Columbia, Mt. Sir Donald. (See accident report) The victim, James Given, was given first aid for hip and leg injuries and considerable back pain. Fear of a fractured spine made a request for a litter evacuation necessary. A party of French...
Peaks above Kiar Nala, 1979. A four-man party from Warsaw made two first ascents above the Kiar Nala. After an acclimatization climb of P 5135 (16,848 feet), they ascended two peaks on the north side of the valley on June 20, 1979. Marek Harisimiu...
Wiencke Island, Ascents. On January 11, New Zealanders Mike Roberts, Lizzie Craddock, Richard Craddock, Amber Chisholm, Anton Woperis and Steve (last name unknown) started climbing from an anchorage near the Chilean base of Gonzales Videla. A long...
Mount Temple, North Face. The summer of 1969 was a rainy summer in the Canadian Rockies. During a brief respite Brian Greenwood and I did a new route on the north face of Mount Temple. Our route follows a 3000-foot rock rib up the left side of the...
Arches National Park. The park, four miles north of Moab, has been the object of many a climber’s attention since the lifting of the ban on climbing named features in 1987. On the Zippy Zebra Wall, good new routes have been added in 1988, includin...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park. On 18 July, Lendol Leach (19) and six companions had gone on an overnight trip to Waterfall Canyon. They had left the marked trail and got into what was described as off-trail rock scrambling. While they were at...
Mountain Rescue Techniques by Wastl Mariner. First English edition translated by Otto T. Trott, M.D. and Kurt G. Beam; edited by Harvey H. Manning and Howard R. Miller. Innsbruck: Oesterreichischer Al-penverein, 1964. 195 pages, 117 sketches. Dist...
Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I), North Face Attempt. Granger Banks, Richard Soaper, Lyle Dean and I arrived at Gasherbrum I Base Camp on May 19 after eleven days on the Baltoro approach with 23 porters. After placing a food cache at 21,325 feet in the ...
Kleines Zermatter Brevier, by Paul Budry and Werner Kaempfen. 159 pages, with sketches by Géa Augsburg. Brigue and Lausanne: Visp-Zermatt-Bahn-Gesellschaft, 1941.In 1941, when the Visp-Zermatt railroad had been in existence for half a century, 300...
Teewinot, Second Winter Ascent. On February 13, Dennis Caldwell, Karin Caldwell, and Joel Bown made the second winter ascent of Teewinot by the southwest couloir. The remarkable feature of this climb was that it was made in one day from the valley...
Kumbhakarna (Jannu). Our members were Georg Rubin, Res Leibundgut, Christian von Almen, Bruno Rankwiler, Daniel Anker and I as leader. We reached Base Camp on the Yamatari Glacier at 4400 meters with about 30 porters on October 8. From October 10 ...
Monadnock Guide, edited by Henry I. Baldwin. Concord, New Hampshire; Society for the Protection of New Hampshire Forests, 1970. 128 pages, 31 photos, line drawings, 3 maps. $2.00An attractive, pocket-sized guide of the “biggest little mountain” of...