Feature Article AAJ
Mount Foster, H.W. Tilman Would Have Approved

Mount FosterH. W. Tilman would have approved by Dan MannixI’m a Colorado Boy. The ocean is as foreign to me as the dark side of the moon. In Colorado we keep our water safely controlled with modem inventions like bathtubs and drinking glasses. Our...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Mata, Northeast Face, Akuna Matata Africa, Mali

Claudio Mandrini, Paolo Stopping Alberto Zanada, and I left Italy on November 28 for Ouagadougou (Burkina Faso). From here we traveled almost entirely on dirt routes 380km to Daari, where we stayed at the campground run by Salvador Campillo and hi...

| Published N/A | Author Alberto Zucchetti


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Tierra Del Fuego, Isla de los Estados, Inland Traverse

Isla de los Estados, inland traverse. This island was discovered in 1615 by Le Maire and afterward visited by many explorers, including James Cook. Many ships have wrecked on its difficult coasts. Because of difficult terrain and bad weather, no o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Andes

Andes, Chile. On January 28, 1954, Juan Harshein, Bion González, and Walter Bachmann of the Club Andino de Chile made the first ascent of Chachacoma (16,400 feet) in the Cordillera de la Serena. This ascent took place on a reconnaissance of a near...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Chopicalqui, Ulta, Contrahierbas, Cayesh, San Juan, Pucaraju

Chopicalqui, Ulta, Contrahierbas, Cayesh, San Juan, Pucaraju. The New Zealand Andean Expedition climbed in the Cordillera Blanca from May to August. Members of the party were Maurice Conway, Stuart Allen, Steve Dawson, Oily McCahon, Trevor Caines,...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Antarctic Peninsula, Amundsen Peak; Island Traverses; Mt. Rendu

Amundsen Peak; island traverses; Mt Rendu. To commemorate Roald Amundsen’s team reaching the South Pole on December 14,1911, the Spirit of Sydney transported the Spirit of Amundsen International Expedition (mostly Norwegian), to the Peninsula to m...


Accident Reports ANAM
Various Falls on Rock, Mostly No or Inadequate Protection, New York, Shawangunks

VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, MOSTLY NO OR INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNew York, ShawangunksIn 1989, there were 19 climbing accidents. They can be divided into three categories: (1) solo climbers or boulderers, who use no rope; (2) lead climbers; and (3) those ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inappropriate Call to 911, North Carolina, Rumbling Bald, Drivin and Cryin

FALL ON ROCK, INAPPROPRIATE CALL TO 911North Carolina, Rumbling Bald, Drivin and CryinOn May 21, while preparing to climb, an EMS vehicle entered the Rumbling Bald parking lot. One of the EMT’s asked if anyone had called 911, noting that someone h...


Feature Article AAJ
Summer Ascents of Columbia, North Twin and Farbus

Summer Ascents of Columbia, North Twin and FarbusSterling B. HendricksIN the 200 miles between Mt. Robson, of the Northern Canadian Rockies, and Mt. Assiniboine to the S., the Continental Divide passes over two of the seven highest summits, and to...


Notes AAJ
Maps from China

Maps from China. Three excellent maps may be bought from the Lanzhou Institute of Glaciology and Cryopedology, Academia Sinica, Lanzhou, People’s Republic of China: Qomolungma (Mount Everest), 1:50000, $5.00; Batura Glacier (Pakistan), 1:60000, $5...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Old Piton Broke, Maryland, Delaware Water Gap NRA, Mount Tammany

FALL ON ROCK, OLD PITON BROKEMaryland, Delaware Water Gap NRA, Mount TammanyOn August 11, 1991, Mike Morlock (16) and Rick Lago (24) had finished climbing the Rib (5.3) and started climbing Triumvirate (5.4). Mike led the first pitch to a ledge, s...


Club Activities AAJ
AAC, Sierra Nevada Section

AAC, Sierra Nevada Section. Over the past two years, the Sierra Nevada Section has worked diligently to engage the National Park Service in meaningful dialogues regarding the use of resources within Yosemite National Park. In 1999, we began to rea...


Feature Article AAJ
El Gigante

El GiganteA chronicle of early climbing on the giant of Parque Nacional Cascada de Basaseachic, Mexico.Luis Carlos García AyalaIn the state of Chihuahua, a small corner of Tarahumara land conceals countless wonders, some of which have only recentl...


Book Reviews AAJ
The Throne of the Gods

The Throne of the Gods, by Arnold Heim and August Gannser. Translated by Eden and Cedar Paul. 8 vo.; xxv + pp. 233, with 220 photographic illustrations and 18 sketches in the text. New York; The Macmillan Co., 1939. Price $5.00.Heim and Gansser, t...


Accident Reports ANAM
Maine, Mt. Katahdin

ACCIDENTS REPORTED, 1955Maine, Mt. Katahdin—On September 9, 1955, George Langer (22) was climbing the chimney route. He was not roped. A rock slid under him and he fell about ten feet. He was badly bruised, suffering a dislocated knee, a cracked b...


Accident Reports ANAM
Pulmonary Edema, Ascending Too Fast, Alaska, Mount McKinley

PULMONARY EDEMA, ASCENDING TOO FAST Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 18, 1993, at 1400, SSgt. Michael J. Dunn (31) reported to the ranger camp at the 14,200 foot level of Mount McKinley's West Buttress complaining of severe headache, nausea, and the p...


Editorials And Prefaces AAJ
Preface

One hundred and fifty years ago, when Europe was in the final grip of the “Little Ice Age,” glaciers tumbled into low valleys and a dozen Britishers founded the Alpine Club, the first of its kind. The Alpine Club would be a place where members “mi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Cho Oyu   

Cho Oyu. An expedition led by Briton Harold Taylor had five British climbers, 2 French, a Swiss and a New Zealander. They climbed the normal route. On June 21, Taylor, New Zealander Russell Brice, and Sherpas Da Nuru and Lhakpa Gyalu reached the t...


Club Activities AAJ
Iowa Mountaineers

Iowa Mountaineers. The Iowa Mountaineers of the State University of Iowa enjoyed in 1948 their most successful year. Founded in 1940, the club now has a membership of 750 and ranks as possibly the largest college mountaineering club in the country...


Club Activities AAJ
Iowa Mountaineers

Iowa Mountaineers. The club completed another active year in 1986, with membership at 1100. Nearly 840 members participated in one of the many instructional courses, the mountaineering camps, or the foreign expeditions that were one to four weeks ...