Dudh Kundali (6,042m), south ridge and traverse; Point 5,518m. Our expedition didn’t reach our proposed base camp in the heart of the massif northwest of Kanjiroba, let alone Patrasi (6,450m), our primary objective. Our gear, which we has shipped ...

A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section. The section met twice during 1959. On November 20, in cooperation with the Rocky Mountain Rescue Group, we sponsored a program on Rakaposhi, which Dick Irvin presented before a group of about 220 people. The film an...

Mount Shuksan, Southwest Face. On July 29, 1963 Dave Beckstead and I made the first ascent of Shuksan’s southwest precipice. This impressive wall, rising some 1800 feet above the lower Curtis Glacier, is an eye-capturing face, extremely steep in i...

International Year of MountainsWhat did it mean? What did it do? To most of us who read this journal, every year is a year of mountains. So you could be forgiven for thinking that the United Nations’ declaration of 2002 as International Year of Mo...

The Mace. In late March, I made a roped solo ascent of The Mace (F9) by the original route. After third-classing the first two pitches, I used the rope for protection on the last three, including the infamous “step-across,” where one bridges acros...

Washington, Camas, Chimney Rocks—At approximately 4:30 p.m. on May 25, one rope of three started up the west face on the centermost rock in the Chimney Rocks. After they had reached a point where they anchored three pitons, John Satterberg (23) st...

INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCE—California, Yosemite Valley. On November 4, while rappelling down Glacier Point Terrace, a standard descent route, Bert Miller (20) rappelled to the end of his rope and could see the next set of anchors below him...

Shisha Pangma Ascents of Main and Central Summits and Attempts in the Post-Monsoon. An expedition of 10 Koreans led by Kang Tae-Sun climbed the normal route on Shisha Pangma. They claimed that Um Hong-Gil and Min Kyoung-Tae reached the summit on S...

Sharkstooth, South Face. On July 21 Charlie Roskosz started up a steep ramp, which we had decided was the best possibility for the beginning of the route. The first pitch went slightly left for 40 feet and then up and right for another 60 to a gra...

JOSEPH R. LEUTHOLD 1906-1965The Club notes with regret the passing on December 12th, 1965, of Joe Leuthold, a leader in the skiing and mountaineering world of the Pacific Northwest since the early 1930’s.Born in Switzerland in 1906 and coming to O...

Potomac Appalachian Trail Club. The mountaineering committee has held weekly local climbs, emphasizing instruction in the principles of safety. Members climbed far afield in 1951—Tetons, British Columbia, eastern Wyoming. In August a party of four...

Mount Starr King, West and Northwest Faces. On May 30, Lee Panza and I began at a bent lodgepole pine at the base of the west face. We climbed up and right for three enjoyable pitches and continued straight up flakes, cracks and overhangs for anot...

Artesonraju. Our expedition was composed of María Antonia Crespo, Miguel and Fidel de Godos, Pedro Marcos, Jorge Izquierdo, Vicente García, Javier Martínez and me. Marcos and I climbed Artesonraju (19,767 feet) by the north-northeast glacier, the...

Turpin Peak. A German expedition led by Philip Rosenthal was unable to reach the summit of its chief objective, Mazena Peak (23,300 feet), which lies above the Rupal valley south of Nanga Parbat. They did climb Turpin Peak (c. 19,000 feet), which ...

Dhaulagiri, Southwest Buttress of West Face, Attempt. The 13-man Japanese Kansai Expedition, led by Dr. Yoshito Tsukazaki, unsuccessfully attempted the southwest buttress of the west face of Dhaulagiri. Base Camp was established in the Myangdi Kho...

Higher Cathedral Spire, Northwest Face. The first ascent was made on June 6–7 by Tom Frost and Royal Robbins. This route involved eleven pitches, 180 pitons and six bolts. One of the pitches took five hours to complete and needed 36 pitons and fou...

Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. During the last three years the D.M.C. has been revitalized by a core of enthusiastic students, with 1993 being another active year. With heavy snowfall and abundant ice, a winter-skills workshop was run by members t...

Alpamayo. On August 20 we climbed Alpamayo. Vitaliano Alvarón was on my rope* and Basques Emilio Hernando and Juan San Sebastián were on the other. Camp was on the north col. We left camp at six A.M., a little late because it had been snowing befo...

Longs Peak. On July 13 James Burbank and I added another new route to the East Face. Ours, the “Shining Slab”, follows the second major crack system north of the Diagonal Route and is about a rope-length south of Field’s Chimney. We climbed a sing...

Sancayuni West Face. Look up the Río Chekapa lobe of the Linco Valley and you will see Sancayuni (c. 5400 meters, 17,717 feet) with a west face half hanging glacier and half rock. On a Sunday last summer, Dave Bishop, Frank Zafran and I did the ha...