Ancohuma, Barrador Intimo; Pico del Norte, C’est la Vie, and other ascents. Climbing early in the year on the east face of Ancohuma (6,427m), Frenchmen Pierre Bogino and Simon Paris added a new ice/mixed line, which they named Barrador Intimo. The...
Mount Maxwell. After arriving at Kluane Lake on August 5, for a week we packed our loads along Slims River and up the Kaskawulsh Glacier to its confluence with the South Arm. On August 15 Jean Bertucca, Jeannine Carrette, Eliane Hoste, Monique Lar...
On January 29, 2012, Daniel Gross, Markus Kautz, and I reached the mystical and rarely seen summit of Monte Buckland by a new route, the northeast ridge and northeast face (D). We have called our line Silberkondor after the plane piloted by Gunthe...
Muldrow Glacier MotionBradford WashburnFor A GREAT MANY years there have been all sorts of conjectures as to the rate of movement of Muldrow Glacier, which flows off the northeast flank of Mount McKinley. The rate at which any glacier moves is hig...
One Man’s Mountains, by Tom Patey. London: Victor Gollancz, 1971.287 pages, illustrated. £3.00.When one experiences the rare delight of reading a climbing book as magnificent as Tom Patey’s One Man’s Mountains, all those other earnest and dreary c...
Vinson Massif, summary. Around 140 climbers summited Vinson during the 2005-2006 season, with only four climbers unsuccessful. There were no new routes reported on the mountain, though at least one team climbed Mount Shinn (4,661m) by the normal r...
The Kangchenjunga ascent viewed from DarjeelingANDERSON BAKEWELL, S.J.Seldom in mountaineering history have such favorable conditions been granted for observing a large-scale expedition on a major Himalayan peak as that on Kangchenjunga in 1955. N...
Mustagh Tower. Our expedition was made up of Sandy Allan, Jon Tinker, Tony Brindle and me as leader, United Kingdom, and Burt Greenspan, Donna Kalel and Alex Reid, United States. Unfortunately Greenspan had a knee injury whilst on the walk in and ...
California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Ritter. The accident occurred on a trip which was advertised by its organizer, the Sierra Singles Section of the Loma Prieta Chapter, as a Memorial Day weekend outing to Lake Ediza with an optional climb of Mt. Ritte...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION\California, Yosemite National Park, Middle CathedralOn May 6, I took a lead fall way bigger than I would have liked and got to have a couple fun helicopter rides because of it. Just thought I’d share what happen...
JAMES RAMSEY ULLMAN 1908–1971On June 20, 1971, American mountaineering lost its most distinguished man of letters when James Ramsey Ullman died of cancer at the age of 63.For more than 30 years, Jim’s books introduced Americans of all ages to the ...
The far eastern part of the Wakhan Corridor has never seen many foreign visitors. During the Afghan climbing boom of the 1960s and 70s it was too remote and access too difficult to draw major attention, with high virgin peaks available two hours’ ...
Peak 6,365, The Shadow Line, Attempt. With Dave Goldstein, in February and March, I climbed The Shadow Line (nine pitches, 5.11 A3+) on Peak 6,365, the second large formation behind the Visitors’ Center. Mixed free and aid for five pitches, leadin...
In 2010 I went to the Koh-e-Baba to explore cool-looking rock towers. Though I was able to reach two summits, East and West Ibex Ears, I was denied my goal of reaching the prominent tower in the group, the Ibex Horn, and just missed being crushed ...
HENRY SNOW HALL, JR. 1895-1987A very proper Bostonian, in every positive sense of the word, Henry Hall has been the most important single figure in the maturity of the American Apline Club.Bom June 3, 1895, Henry was educated at Saint George’s Sch...
Ultar (7,388m), southeast pillar, attempt. Christian Trommsdorff and I met at the beginning of October in Karimabad, Hunza. The earthquake did not appear to have done much damage, but enormous avalanches were sweeping the surrounding mountains. Ou...
Saint Elias Mountains, Attempt and Ascents. From a base camp on a “virgin” glacier between Mount King George (3741 m) and Mount Queen Mary (3928 m), we took advantage of generally good weather to attempt the northeast ridge of Mount King George, m...
Marcin Michalek, Krzysztof Starek, and I arrived in the Khumbu hoping to climb the north face of Melanphulan, above the Nare Valley. During our first two weeks we acclimatized by trekking from base camp in the village of Pangboche (3,900m) to the ...
Beu-tse, first ascent. In September Derek Buckle, Martin Scott, Alasdair Scott, and I made the first ascent of Beu-tse (6,270m), which lies in Tolung Dechen County of Central Tibet, ca 16km south of the town of Yangpachen. The peak forms one of a ...
Bookmark Pinnacle, Skid You Not, Lumpy Ridge. In late June Doug Snively, Aaron Walters and I made the first ascent of Skid You Not (II, 5.11c). It ascends the slab immediately right of Melvin’s Wheel. Two bolts were used for protection on the crux...