AAC, New York Section. No other event has impacted the NY Section quite as severely as that which occurred on 9/11. As the year began there were constant reminders of the loss suffered by the City and so many people including our members and their...
Mt. Hunter and Thunder Mountain, Various Activity. From late April to late May, Dan Donovan and I (leader) based ourselves on Thunder Glacier on the south side of Mt. Hunter. In 1998,I had spotted a potential new variation to Mt. Hunter’s West Rid...
Breath of Life and Pulse of Life, by Gordon, Archer S., M.D., Ph.D. Distributed by Pyramid Film Producers, P.O. Box 1048, Santa Monica, California, 90406; 16 mm color, sound movies, 16 minutes and 27 minutes, price $160 and $250, respectively. (Al...
Quitaraju and Other Peaks. Johann Wittmann, Hans Buttkuss, Eva Selle, Klaus Stark, Fritz Buchwald, Werner Brand and I were at Base Camp in the Quebrada Santa Cruz at 13,450 feet from June 19 to July 8. We failed to climb Artesonraju by the normal ...
Queenstown region summary. The Remarkable Range continues to be a ice playground in winter with several new lines being establised this year. Most notable is Helicampers (M-something) by Mark Sedon and Lionel Clay at well-known ice crag Wye Creek....
Indus Kohistan. The expedition led by Lieutenant M. W. H. Day of Gonville and Caius College, Cambridge (England) visited the Siri Dara plateau, some ten miles east of Kalam in Swat State. The area was explored by T. H. Braham in 1962. (A.A.J., 196...
TERRIS MOORE1908-1993Terris Moore, age 85, of Cambridge, Massachusetts, explorer, mountaineer, light-plane pilot and President Emeritus of the University of Alaska, died on November 7 after a massive heart attack. He became internationally known i...
Mount Logan, South-Southwest Ridge. After four unsuccessful attempts, the south-southwest ridge of Mount Logan was climbed in June by Alan Burgess, Jim Elzinga, John Laughlan and me. After fifteen miserable, wet days at Kluane Lake, we were finall...
Mountaineer Passes of the Yoho-Waputik GroupThe first explorer of the Yoho valley was Jean Habel who, in 1897, required seventeen days to reach its head. In the same year, it is of interest to recall, the Wapta icefield was reached by the large pa...
FALLING ROCKWashington, Mt. RainierA high-altitude rescue was successfully completed on June 4 on the Liberty Ridge climbing route in the Carbon River District. A four-man Seattle Mountain Rescue Team especially trained for difficult high-altitude...
Huandoy Sur, Attempt on South Face. Although Don Whillans, leader, and the Scots David Bathgate, Ian MacEacheran and Brian Robertson arrived at Lima on May 27, a series of irritating delays prevented the release of our equipment from customs until...
Huaytapallana Karu. In late June Pete Barry, New Zealand, Frank Hepburn, Scot and I left for Lampa but by bus got only as far as Chilifruta, where the road was still closed from landslides caused by a severe earthquake in November, 1969. From dest...
On August 25, 2002, Becka Bracy and I intended to do the 5.8 East Chimney as a date climb. A date climb is when you climb something easy, so as to get in some climbing, while you still spend time with a girl. In this case, a lot more climbing than...
LOST CLIMBERS, BAD WEATHERAlaska, Mount McKinleyA three-member mountaineering expedition, the Skin and Bones Expedition, from the Kan- sei Climbing Club (KCC) of Japan, failed to return from an attempt on the South Face of Mount McKinley. The thre...
FALL ON ROCK– INADEQUATE HAULING SYSTEMCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn May 2, Jeff (40) and Don (20) climbed the first two pitches of Zenyatta Mondatta (VI 5.7 A5) on El Capitan. They hauled most of their gear and returned to the Valley ...
Dhaulagiri, South Buttress Attempt. Our expedition of guide-teachers of the ENSA was composed of Anselme Baud, Pierre Blanc, Jean Cou- dray, Maurice Cretton, Charles Daubas, Yvon Masino, Georges Payot, Raymond Renaud, Jean-Paul Vion and me as lead...
“Three hundred days of storm and the other 65 not pleasant.”- Alberto De Agostini, describing the Cordillera Darwin Range after his 1913 attempt on Mt. Sarmiento.“You are raving mad to consider crossing the cordillera in its entirety.”- Steve Ogle...
Two years ago Yvon Chouinard discovered the remarkable potential of a 600-foot rock sitting modestly between El Capitan and the Three Brothers, a rock used as a training ground by the Park Service but largely ignored by others. Chouinard returned ...
Alberta, Banff National Park, Moraine Lake Area. On 16 August a large group of climbers from the Calgary Mountain Club, who had registered out, were making a descent down a snow filled couloir be-tween the Third and Fourth Peaks in the Valley of t...
SLIP ON SNOW and RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILURE Alaska, Mount HuntingtonOn April 16, 1983, John Tuckey (32) and Robb Kimbrough (28) flew to the West Fork of the Ruth Glacier to climb the East Face of Mount Huntington. On April 26, an advance base camp was ...