FALL ON ROCK, WRONG TYPE OF BOOTS, NO SPOTTERWashington, Washington Pass, Liberty BellI have been climbing since the early 1950s and still get out to unexplored areas these days. After climbing in an untouched area of the Pantheons in the BC Coast...
Two Generations. Edmund and Peter Hillary. Hodder and Stoughton, London, 1985. 223 pages, 31 color photographs, 4 sketch maps. £10.95.As its title suggests, Edmund and Peter Hillary’s Two Generations endeavors to reveal, explore and contrast two g...
Mt. Kenya, Pt. John, new rock routes. December weather is still unstable: sunny warm days can switch with high winds, lots of rain, and snow above 4,000m. My first time on the peak, during the 2002 Christmas break, brought icy conditions on the hi...
The Complete West Ridge of EverestTone Škarja, Planinska Zveza Slovenije, YugoslaviaOUR REQUEST FOR permission to climb Mount Everest had already been sent to the Nepalese government in 1974. Between April 9 and May 5, 1978 Stane Belak, Štefan Mar...
Ushba, One More AttemptLawrence CoolidgeUSHBA (15,409 ft.), double-barreled Matterhorn of the Caucasus, is one of its most challenging and coveted peaks. It has turned back many strong parties in the course of the last forty-three years, and has s...
Addicted to Danger: A Memoir about Affirming Life in the Face of Death. Jim Wickwire and Dorothy Bullit. Pocket Books: New York, 1998. Black-and-white photos. 352 pages. $24.00.On a grass field 100 yards long in the desert area of Central Washingt...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTION, PROTECTIONPULLED OUT, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Clear Creek CanyonSept. 13th. It was a beautiful day for climbing. Michelle (24) and I (29) drove out to Clear Creek Canyon to hone our fledgling lead s...
A Dream of White Horses. Edwin Drummond. Diadem Books, Cheshire (England), 1987. 224 pages, black-and-white photographs. £10.95.Once in a while something happens that takes your breath away. A stunning physical attraction, a taste of exquisitely p...
A Dictionary of Mountaineering, by R. G. Collomb. Glasgow and London: Blackie & Son Ltd., 1957. 175 pages; 52 sketches. Price 12s 6d.This is an interesting attempt at a dictionary of mountaineering terms. It is, however, by no means complete o...
First Ascents in the Arrigetch. My two brothers, Carl and Michael, and I spent four weeks in the Arrigetch in the central Brooks Range. We ascended Battleship and Citadel* by obvious class 3–4 routes (in both cases the west ridge) and Pyramid by t...
Trento Peak; Om Shanti; Col 5,630m; Bruno Detassis Peak; Fiamme Gialle Peak. In September I led an expedition that included a doctor and eight mountaineers employed in the Italian Guardia di Finanza Mountain Rescue. We explored little-known areas ...
New Hampshire, Mt. Washington, Tuckerman’s Ravine—On February 19, 1956 A. Aaron Leve (29), Albert E. Sanderson (51), Charles Fay (21), Frank Truesdale (31) and George Speers (34) were involved in an avalanche in Tuckerman’s Ravine. The day before ...
PARTY SEPARATED, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE; CONTRIBUTING FACTORS: UNROPED, FAULTY USE OF EQUIPMENT, BAD WEATHER, EXPOSURE—Washington, Mt. Rainier. On November 27, 1975, Mark Boatsman (23), Norman Hill (22), Tompkins, and Welsh registered at Paradise...
Climber’s Guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada—South, by William L. Putnam and Glen W. Boles. New York: American Alpine Club, 1973. 330 pages, 32 photographs and drawings.Climber’s Guide to the Rocky Mountains of Canada—North, by William L. Putn...
Sikkim, mountaineering associations, regulations, fees, and permitted peaks. The Sikkim Amateur Mountaineering Association (SAMA) was founded in 2001 and recognized by the Sikkim Home Department in 2003. It is a small but growing association that ...
First Ascent of Mount Kennedy and Second Ascent of Mount HubbardAn Extended Note by Bradford WashburnIn January 1965 the Canadian Government named a major Yukon peak in honor of the late President Kennedy. Discovered in the winter of 1935 on the N...
One Green Bottle, by Elizabeth Coxhead. 281 pages. London: Faber and Faber, 1951. Price, 10/6.Here at last is an English-language novel completely centered on climbing and written by someone who obviously “knows her stuff.” In this case, it is cli...
Weasel Valley, Baffin Island. Our seven-man expedition was active in the Weasel Valley during July and August. Climbing throughout the night of July 27 to 28 Rob Little and I made the first ascent of an impressive rock peak, “Point Roscoe”* (4000+...
Ancohuma Group, Cordillera Real, Bolivia; and Ouitaraju, Cordillera Blanca, Peru. The New Zealanders, Donald Mackay, Jean Nelson, Ed and Jen Cotter and Harold Jacobs entered the northern Cordillera Real from Warizata, 50 miles north of La Paz, on ...
Grand SentinelRoyal RobbinsShe’s got everything she needs;She’s an artist, she don’t look back.—Bob DylanCHOUINARD don’t look back. He’s an artist of life. He delights even in the stray bits of wickedness which flit through his soul. He doesn’t ca...