Feature Article AAJ
The First Laser Measurements to the Summit of Mount McKinley

DURING the early summer of 1977 Boston’s Museum of Science planned to complete a two-year project of making a very precise map of Muldrow Glacier, which flows off the northeast flank of Mount McKinley in Alaska. This glacier has a history of ext...

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| Published 1977 | Author Bradford Washburn


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Schweizerland, Various Ascents North America, Greenland, East Coast

The 2010 Braunschweiger Grönlandexpedition flew to Kulusuk on July 12, and over the next two days traveled northeast by boat and on foot (with pulks) into the mountains between Knud Rasmussen Gletscher and Kangertivartikajik Fjord. Base camp was e...

| Published 2010 | Author Kai Maluck


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Canada, Canadian Arctic, Climbs in Auyuttuq National Park, Baffin Island

Climbs in Auyuttuq National Park, Baffin Island. On August 7, Willard Moulton, Bill Morris, Jim Osborne, Dr. Douglas Halliday, Dr. Michael Parker and I were boated to the Overlord Camp at the head of Pangnirtung Fiord. We carried our too-heavy loa...


In Memoriam AAJ
Benjamin Greely Ferris, Jr. M.D., 1919-1996

BENJAMIN GREELY FERRIS, JR. M. D.1919-1996Ben Ferris, for more than half a century a respected member and official of the Club, died at his home in Weston, Massachusetts, on August 1. The son of General Benjamin G. and Margaret (Wright) Ferris, Be...


Feature Article AAJ
The South Face of Dhaulagiri

The South Face of DhaulagiriAn interview with Tomaž Humarby Antonella Cicogna, Italytranslated by Emanuele Pellizzari, with Christian BeckwithThe south face—or, more accurately, the south-southeast face—of Dhaulagiri I sweeps up over 4000 meters t...


Book Reviews AAJ
Devil: The Life Story of a Chamois in the Austrian Alps

Devil: The Life Story of a Chamois in the Austrian Alps, by Waldemar Schmidtman. Translated by the author. 214 pages, with numerous drawings by W. von Freyschlaz. New York: D. Appleton-Century Co.. 1936. Price $2.00.As a small boy the reviewer viv...


Feature Article AAJ
American Alpine Club Research Fund, Report of the Committee, 1950-1952

American Alpine Club Research FundThe American Alpine Club Research Fund was established in 1945 to promote scientific, literary, educational or historical research and publication related to mountaineering, geology or geography. The members appoi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Hualcán Peak, 5,350m (Nevado Libron), East Ridge, and Huichganga, South Ridge

Hualcán Peak 5,350m (Nevado Libron), east ridge, and Huichganga, south ridge. On July 10 Dave Sykes and I (both British) made what may be the first ascent of a peak that is in the vicinity of Hualcán. The peak is on the northeast ridge of Hualcán ...


Notes AAJ
Alaska Rescue Group, Anchorage

Alaska Rescue Group, Anchorage. The Alaska Rescue Group was founded as a result of the need for such an organization in the area. Hal Sherman and Johnnie Johnston called a public meeting early in 1960. Ted and Jan Koeberle, Stan and Janie Swanson,...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Everest, Scientific Expedition

Everest, Scientific Expedition. Wally Berg was on Everest with a special mission: to bolt to bedrock as close as possible to the summit a GPS station from which signals can be sent to satellites and thus reveal exactly where the summit is at any g...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh, Chau Chau Kang Nilda

Chau Chau Kang Nilda. Nine climbers from Calcutta set up Base Camp at 5300 meters on June 28. On July 1, Bibhas Das, climbing leader, Swapan Banerjee, Goutam Chatterjee, Apruna Ganguly, Probir Nandan and high- altitude porter Dhan Singh gained the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Michelson, Brooks Range

Mount Michelson, Brooks Range. On April 23, 1957, John P. Thomson, of the Fairbanks Daily News-Miner, and R. E. “Pete” Isto, resident topographic engineer with the U. S. Geological Survey, Fairbanks, made the first ascent of Mount Michelson, highe...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Paine Group, Patagonia

Paine Group, Patagonia. Although the Patagonian peaks are low when compared to the more northerly Andes, they rise sheer from sea level into murky and stormy skies and are often fantastically rugged and massive. Their glaciers end in ice cliffs in...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, Colorado National Monument

Colorado National Monument. The south face of Grand View Spire was climbed by Mike Baker, Michael Kennedy and Bob Wade (IV, 5.10, 5 pitches). Balanced Rock (5.6, A0+), located on the drive into the Monument, was climbed by John Middendorf and Came...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Europe, Norway, Tromso Region, Romsdalen, Oliskardstind, Ut i Vår Hage

Oliskardstind, Ut i Vår Hage. For two years I’d kept an eye on an unclimbed line on Oliskard- stind, but I’d never been in the right place at the right time. Sometimes we travel to far-away places in hopes of sending the climbs of our dreams and f...


Accident Reports ANAM
Pneumonia, Acute Mountain Sickness, Frostbite, Weather, Wyoming, Tetons

PNEUMONIA, ACUTE MOUNTAIN SICKNESS, FROSTBITE, WEATHER Wyoming, TetonsOn December 31, 1986, Blair Rich (32) called my residence from Moose and reported that a member of his Grand Teton climbing party was in trouble at the Lower Saddle. I responded...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Off-route—Late Start Led to Haste, Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Lower Exum

FALL ON ROCK, OFF-ROUTE–LATE START LED TO HASTEWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Lower ExumOn September 3, Leah Samberg fell 3 5 feet from the third pitch of the Lower Exum Ridge (5.7), shattering her upper left arm and breaking her hip.Mid-morn...


Book Reviews AAJ
Hikers and Climbers Guide to the Sandias

Hikers and Climbers Guide to the Sandias. Mike Hill. University of New Mexico Press, Albuquerque, 1983. XII + 234 pages, black and white photographs, route diagrams, charts, map, bibliography. $9.95.There is much to commend in this daypack-size gu...


Club Activities AAJ
Sierra Club

Sierra Club. The Sierra Club once again engaged in a large program of summer outings, including the 48th high trip into the Sierra Nevada, 3 burro trips, a base camp trip, 3 knapsack trips (one to Colorado), 2 family burro trips, and 2 river-runni...


Feature Article AAJ
The Squamish Chief

The Squamish ChiefEdward CooperFive years ago the ascent of the face of the Squamish Chief, previously erroneously referred to as "Goose Rock," would have been unthinkable, but improving techniques and equipment now made it feasible. The remarkabl...