The Front Lines of Climate ChangeMountaineers are the world’s witnesses to glacial decline.Joe StockThirty miles into the Neacolas, clouds spread over the Blockade Glacier and reduced our visibility to zero. We groped along in the murk, making slo...
The Ledge: An Adventure Story of Friendship and Survival on Mount Rainier. Jim Davidson and Kevin Vaughan. Ballantine Books, 2011. 268 pages. Hardcover. $26.00.On June 21, 1992, Jim Davidson and his friend and climbing partner Mike Price summited ...
The Mt. Logan AdventureAllen CarpeTHE ascent of Mt. Logan in 1925 was perhaps the most arduous feat of mountaineering ever undertaken in North America. In saying this I am not unmindful of the series of efforts, spread over six years, that carried...
On the Ridge Between Life and Death: A Climbing Life Reexamined.David Roberts. New York: Simon & Schuster, 2005. 415 pages. Hardcover. $26.00.My introduction to the writing of David Roberts was by way of his novella, “Like Water and Like Wind,...
Camp 4: Recollections of a Yosemite Rock Climber. Steve Roper. The Mountaineers, Seattle, Washington, 1994. 255 pages, black-and-white photos. $24.95.Read this book. It’s funny. Touching. Revealing. Named after the famous Yosemite Valley campgroun...
The Fairweather ClimbWilliam S. LaddTHE story of the expedition which made the first ascent of Mt. Fairweather in the spring of 1931 has been ably told by others of our party.1 It is not the intention to here repeat the story, but instead to give ...
FALL ON ICE, NO PROTECTION OR BELAYWashington, Mount Rainier, Cowlitz CleaverWhile searching for missing climbers Chris Hartonas and Raymond Vakili on November 15, three rescuers sustained serious injuries after falling off the Gibraltar Ledges ro...
The Eiger Obsession: Facing the Mountain That Killed My Father. John Harlin III. New York: Simon & Schuster, 2007. 283 pages. $26.00.For more than 20 years I’ve known John Harlin III, not really well, but not simply casually either. During all...
K2, South-Southeast Spur, First Chilean Ascent. We departed for Pakistan on May 24, after more than one year of programming and intensive physical training. We arrived at Base Camp on June 11, after a few days in the capital of the country, Islama...
STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, DARKNESS, INEXPERIENCEOregon, Columbia River GorgeAt noon on April 19, 1982, Brad Philips (18) and Justin Cramer (17) began their attempt of Beacon Rock. They had been rained out on Saturday and Sunday.Using a 30-me...
FALL ON FROZEN SCREE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING, INEXPERIENCEOregon, Three Sisters Wilderness, Middle SisterOn September 29, Pete Acker (39) and Jeff Soulia (22) were descending a steep snow and scree slope north west off the 10,040 foot s...
Roaming the ChuskaCameron M. BurnsMknees knocked TOGETHER. I gazed up at the tattered and torn rope. It had dangled in the elements for a whopping twelve months. My knees knocked louder as I eyed one particular section of the used rope—its sheath ...
San Lorenzo Attempt from Chile. John Hauf, Tom Walter and I went in from the Chilean side, an interesting and varied six-day trip: by bus from Puerto Montt to Quellón, ferry to Puerto Chacabuco, bus to Coihaique, plane to Cochrane, horses to Arroy...
Coast Mountains, remote areas summary. Summer 2006 was warm and dry in the Coast Mountains, but fewer adventurous parties took advantage of the fine conditions than usual.As always, the Waddington Range was the primary focus. In mid-May Simon Rich...
FROSTBITE, DEHYDRATION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTAlaska, Mount McKinleyA three member party was on the ascent of the South Buttress of Mount McKinley. On May 31 at 0900 they left for the summit from their high camp at 5500 meters. They experienced litt...
Mt. Everest: On April 3, 1933, the Marquis of Clydesdale, Lt.-Col. L. V. Stewart Blacker, Lt. D. F. McIntyre, and S. R. Bonnett flew over Mt. Everest and returned with a large number of photographs. It required three and a half hours for the round...
Man of the TrailFred StephensWhat would one not give to be young again, riding with a packtrain through the Canadian forests? To emerge from the jackpine shadow on to gravel flats beside a sparkling river. To pass through a kaleidoscopic symphony ...
Thor’s Land, Discovery Wall, Nougatocity. Josh Helling and I traveled by local boat 350+km south down the east coast of Greenland to a remote fjord in Thor’s Land. This area has numerous fjords, with walls, towers, and unique granite formations th...
DEHYDRATION–FROSTBITEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West RibAt 1600 on May 27, both members of a Spanish expedition “Dos Perdigones en la Cassin” began their ascent of the Upper West Rib. As the team approached the summit around 0500 the following mornin...
Mt. Kitchener, Rights of Passage. Somehow we had appeased the Mountain gods, for they granted us Rights of Passage. No doubt a reward for being patient while still staying keen. Alpine conditions were finally setting up, and the forecast was promi...