Tupopdan. Our expedition made the first ascent of Tupopdan (or Tlipobdan) in the Markhun valley of the Karun Koh region of the northern Karakoram. We were Andy Cave, Tom Richardson, John Stevenson, Joe Simpson and I as leader. We established Base ...

Pumasillo, Cordillera Vilcabamba. The Cambridge (England) Andean Expedition, under the leadership of John H. Longland and Simon G. McH. Clark, was in the Cordillera Vilcabamba from mid-June to mid-August. Knowing from the British and American part...

Api, Northwest Ridge. An expedition of five South Koreans was led by Lee Thea-Yeon. On May 27, Son Dong-Su, Pemba Tshering Sherpa and Pasang Gyalbo Sherpa completed the fifth ascent of Api (7132 meters, 23,399 feet), climbing the northwest ridge.E...

Fremont and Sacajawea, Southwest Faces, Wind River Range. In mid-August, Chris Landry and I climbed routes on the southwest faces of Fremont and Sacajawea, which rise from the upper Titcomb Lake. We had sun, but cold winds and intermittent snow an...

Xuelian Feng, Xinjiang. A Japanese expedition of the Tokai Section of the Japanese Alpine Club was led by Tsutomu Ogawa. They made the first ascent of the south summit (6527 meters, 21,414 feet) of Xuelian Feng but could not get to the main (north...

Matkash, Hindu Raj. Four climbers from Trieste, Walter Mejak, Bianca Di Beaco, Fioretta Tarlao and Fabio Benedetti climbed above Mastuj and the Yarkuhn valley. They made the difficult ascent of a peak of about 6000 meters (19,685 feet) above the M...

Ribbon Falls, East Portal. Hoping to succeed by sheer weight of numbers, John Evans, Dick Long, Allen Steck and I, aided by a small band of porters transported our tonnage to the Ribbon Falls amphitheater late in June. We brought food, climbing eq...

Climbs in the Monolith-Dogtooth Cirque, Wind River Range. Intrigued by scant glimpses caught of the Monolith-Dogtooth cirque on a stormy day last summer, Angus Thuermer and I swore to return to attempt some of the elegant lines that caught our eye...

Shisha Pangma, Central Summit. On September 22, Matej Kranjc, leader, Urban Golob, Andrej Karnicar and Iztok Tomazin left Kathmandu for Tibet, hoping to climb the classical route and then ski down the same way. On October 10, Kranjc got to the cen...

Hallett Peak, Right Wall of Third Buttress. Butch Van Tongeren and I started our new route on July 30 about 300 feet right of the regular Northcutt-Carter route. The first pitch ascends a ramp from left to right to a belay on a small ledge below a...

Columbia Finger, Southeast Face. On September 13, Jan Mostowski and I did what we believe to be a first ascent of the southeast face of Columbia Finger. From the base of the south buttress about 150 feet to the right of the beginning of a prominen...

Chopicalqui and Other Peaks. Claude Ferrand, Marc Hannisberg, André Huet, Arlette Mollaret, Elisée Nicolas and I made the following ascents: Pisco (18,898 feet) on June 30 and Yanapaccha (17,914 feet) on July 10. From July 2 to 6 Mlle Nicolas and ...

K6. Germans from Berlin led by Peter Lipp had to give up their attempt to climb difficult K6 (23,890 feet) from the Kondus Glacier on the east because of bad weather after establishing three camps, the highest at nearly 22,000 feet. They were equa...

Ship’s Prow. Ship’s Prow, directly southwest of Chasm Lake under Longs Peak, now provides an increasing variety of shorter and off-day climbs. On July 6 Bob Boucher and I made the first ascent of the Portal, a route of sustained difficulty that fo...

Useful information: To oversimplify, the biggest climbs in the Cordillera Real, as well as the best new material, will be found on the eastern side. This is inconvenient because most approaches are from the west; too, east-side weather is not as g...

Mount Stewart, Dawn Pillar. On June 17, David Wilson and I ascended a new route on Mount Stewart’s north face. We began climbing on the steepest section of this face, following jam-cracks up the left side of a small pillar directly underneath the ...

Kijai Nala, Kishtwar Himal, 1979. A Polish expedition, led by Krzysztof Lozinski, in 1979 visited the Kijai Nala. After a difficult approach, Base Camp was set up on September 6, 1979 at 10,825 feet, and Camps I and II at 13,800 and 17,725 feet on...

Cape Renard Tower, Attempt, and Pt. 3,600', Ascent. Our goal was to attempt the first ascent of the north face of Cape Renard Tower (747m) located on the west side of the Antarctic Peninsula. Cape Renard Tower has been climbed twice before, once b...

Mount Assiniboine, East Face. On August 31 and September 1, Bill Davidson and I made the first ascent of the east face of Assiniboine. The route follows a prominent rib straight up to the summit and avoids the iced walls which impressed Chris Jone...

Hidden Peak, Ski Descent. After arriving at Base Camp at 17,050 feet on May 15, four French and Swiss climbers, Sylvain Saudain, Jean Pierre 01- lagnier, Daniel Semblanet and Marie José Valençot, and high-altitude porter Mohammad Ali climbed Hidde...