A.A.C., Blue Ridge Section. 1983 was a trying year for this Section. After an acrimonious dispute over The American Alpine News, Lin Murphy resigned from the Section Chair and the Club. Director Sallie Greenwood also resigned. Their loss is sorely...
Note on record keeping for trekking peaks. The Pakistan Ministry of Tourism doesn’t keep any records on trekking peaks. The Gordoghan Zom I (6,240m) was climbed in 1965 by Munich section of German Alpine Club. There is no other record of further c...
Kanjeralwa Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Frenchmen Olivier Besson, leader, Guy Cousteix, Lukie Laurent and me from Spain. We were able to fly to the airstrip at Juphal, near Dunai. This lies only three or four days from Ringmo, the capit...
Tukuche Peak. Our members were Kazumi Fujikura, Hisao Miyazaki, Norio Shimoda and I as leader. We climbed Tukuche Peak by the normal route from the north followed by other expeditions. On April 1 we established Base Camp at 16,750 feet on the mora...
High Sierra Mountain Wonderland, by Wampler, Heald and McDermand. Privately published by Joseph Wampler, Box 45, Berkeley 1, Calif. 122 pages, illustrated. Price $2.00.Seldom has such a small book contained so much. The high country traversed by t...
Yukon ExpeditionThe National Geographic Society’s Yukon Expedition, led by Bradford Washburn of Cambridge, Massachusetts, in the spring of 1935, erased from the map of the world by aerial photography, about 2000 square miles of southwestern Yukon ...
East Horn, South Face, Tetons. In an unusual, late season climb, Hal Gribble and Paul Horton made a new route on the south face of the East Horn of Mount Moran on November 16. About four pitches of ice climbing up the right (north) side of Falling...
INADEQUATE BELAY, FALL ON ROCK, LIGHTNING, FEAR Idaho, City of Rocks, Elephant RockOn June 20, 1992, Lew Peterson (34) and Mark Parent (35) were climbing “Just Say No” (5.9) when the following accident happened. Peterson was belaying Parent, who h...
The Arizona Mountaineering Club. During the year 2000, the Arizona Mountaineering Club’s membership base reached 596. The club continued its traditional role as trainer of local rock climbers, as well as building its base in broader alpine pursuit...
Shisha Pangma. Our expedition consisted of Nobuo Teranishi, M. Hongu, T. Ishikawa, Yoshiyuki Tsuji, Kiyohiko Suzuki, M. Hamatani, H. Koike, Sinji Takamura, M. Fujita, T. Suda, H. Yamaha, H. Kojiri, N. Unno, K. Sato, R. Takahashi and me as leader. ...
Buni Zom, South Face. The Bernina Alpine Club Expedition was led by Masao Okabe and had five more members. They left Chitral on July 14 and began walking at Koghozi on the 16th. They went via Birmoha, Romen, Golen Gol, Chakholi, Bokht, Phargam An ...
Changwatang (6,130m), second ascent, west ridge. Five Japanese led by Michihiro Honda and four experienced Sherpas made the second ascent of Changwatang, a summit just south of the Tibetan border peaks of the Chandi Himal, due north of Simikot air...
A.A.C., Cascade Section. The year’s activities commenced with a showing of the full length color-and-sound movie of the Japanese conquest of Manaslu in the Himalayas. In the spring Fred Ayres gave an illustrated program on his most recent climbing...
Mount Spickard (Glacier Peak II), Chilliwacks, North Glacier Route. The glacier route on the north side of Mount Spickard was first climbed by Marilyn Loranger, A1 Tatyrek, Dan Hendricks, Bill Van de Graaff, John Stout, Ruth Ittner, and me on Augu...
Kilimanjaro Porter Assistance ProjectHEC porter assistance expanded to Africa and South America. On September 17, as the many climbers waited in their tents for a late season storm to pass, three porters on Mt. Kilimanjaro were not so lucky. These...
Titan, West Face and River Tower, Fisher Towers. An 11-pitch route was made but not reported in the fall of 1973 by Lou Dawson and Harvey T. Carter with Kenney Williams and Mike Kennedy working on the first six pitches but unable to return for the...
Washington, Cascades, Mt. Snoqualmie—On May 11 a large party of 60 Mountaineers were on an experience climb on Mt. Snoqualmie. They had reached the summit and at about 12 noon were starting the descent. Three of the party were ahead of Cecil Schmi...
FALLING ROCK—California, Yosemite Valley. Michael Cannon (23) and Mark Richey (19) had just come off the Steck-Salathe route on Sentinel Peak. Richey had tied himself to the wall and Cannon was behind a large flake on a sizeable ledge. The next th...
Shisha Pangma Central, Pre-Monsoon Ascents and Attempt. Three ascents were made to the central summit of Shisha Pangma before the monsoon by the normal route. None of the climbers continued on to the slightly higher main summit. A large expedition...
Stroud Peak, North Face. Fred Beckey and I made the first ascent of this face on August 28. The route generally followed up a concavity on the right of the face to a large, rubble-covered ledge about three-fourths of the way up; it then traversed ...