Moby Dick, 1988. The very prominent steep and crevassed north glacier of Moby Dick was climbed for the second time on July 24, 1988 by Dave Pollari, Jim Ruch and me. During a 1986 trip into the Battle Range we had contemplated the route, but wide-...
Colorado: (2) near Golden During the summer of 1950 two young children, ages 10 and 7, were on a picnic in Clear Creek Canyon with their parents. The two boys could hardly wait to climb the mountainside. The seven-year-old slipped and his brother ...
Austral Summer Season in the Fitz Roy Area, 1991-2. News is beginning to reach us now on February 14 about the climbing season during the end of 1991 and the beginning of 1992. Aguja Poincenot was climbed by Argentines Maximo Schneider and Oscar P...
Cerro Trinidad, Velebit. This route was fun, but not as hard as others in this region. Ivica Matkovic and I were in the area for only a short time in January, and began with six days of constant rain. Nearing the end of our time limit, we decided ...
East Horn of Falling Ice Glacier (11,400). Traversed on July 31st by the writer. Ascent by south ridge; descent by east side.
Sierra Vilcabamba. On July 21 the Germans, Dolf Meyer and Martl Schiessler, climbed the Nevado Chamas Chico, which is over 16,500 feet, but had to turn back the next day on the Nevado Chamas Grande (19,350 feet). Meyer alone later climbed Coropuna.
Mount Logan, Northwest Ridge. On May 31 Ron Frid, our helicopter pilot deposited Bruce Balderston, A1 Mathews, Dave Sweet and me and our gear at the foot of the unclimbed northwest ridge of Mount Logan. The ridge rises out of the Logan Glacier fro...
Right Mitten. In Monument Valley, Dan Langmade and Dave Insley climbed the Right Mitten (6 pitches, 5.9, A2). The route ascends the crack system beginning at the right edge of the Thumb.Eric Bjørnstad
British Columbia, Purcell Range, Commander Mountain. On 27 July David Jones, John Christian, Murray Foubister, and Jan Atlung (26) were attempting a new route on a rib of the NE face of Commander Mountain. David Jones led a rope pitch, anchored an...
Northeast Face, Squaretop. Layton Kor and I started our climb up a steepening slab system on the northwest face, between two converging couloirs. This section had about six leads, two of which had some quite difficult free moves protected by piton...
STRANDED ON WATERFALL ICEBritish Columbia, Coast Mountains, Pemeberton AreaOn December 22, 1990, three ice climbers were on a waterfall at Soo Bluffs. The leader, N.Z. (29), got to within about eight meters of the top of the pitch, and then was un...
Changi Tower Main Peak, Excess Baggage. Excess Baggage starts directly above Camp I at the base of a four-pitch, left-facing comer. (Camp I is at the base of the bottom tier of Changi Tower. Changi is two-tiered on its east face, with the bottom t...
FALL ON SNOW/ICEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West RibOn June 11, two climbers (36 and 39, US) died of injuries sustained during a fall while ascending the West Rib route. Though the origin of the fall was not witnessed, it is believed to have begun at ...
Momhil Sar Attempt. The members of our expedition were Heiko Irmisch, Rolf Steffens, Roland Köhler and I as leader. We hoped to make the second ascent of Momhil Sar (7343 meters, 24,092 feet) by the east ridge, the route by which Austrians made th...
Peruvian Expeditions. César Morales Arnao reports an active year by Peruvian climbers. Among other climbs he reports the first ascent of Rajunta (17,586 feet), which is not far from Lima, May 28, by Alberto Morales Arnao, Segundo Villanueva, Juven...
Manaslu Attempt and Tragedy. In March, China cancelled my Shisha Pangma permission and I obtained a permit for the northeast face of Manaslu. We were Jim Sutton and I from the United States and Spaniards Javier Iraola, Albino Quinteiro, José Melón...
Artesonraju. During July and August 1974, an Argentinian expedition of the Centro Andino Buenos Aires was active in the Cordillera Blanca. Bad weather defeated several attempts to climb Alpamayo by both the north and south ridges. An attempt on Ar...
A.A.C., Blue Ridge Section. 1983 was a trying year for this Section. After an acrimonious dispute over The American Alpine News, Lin Murphy resigned from the Section Chair and the Club. Director Sallie Greenwood also resigned. Their loss is sorely...
Note on record keeping for trekking peaks. The Pakistan Ministry of Tourism doesn’t keep any records on trekking peaks. The Gordoghan Zom I (6,240m) was climbed in 1965 by Munich section of German Alpine Club. There is no other record of further c...
Kanjeralwa Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Frenchmen Olivier Besson, leader, Guy Cousteix, Lukie Laurent and me from Spain. We were able to fly to the airstrip at Juphal, near Dunai. This lies only three or four days from Ringmo, the capit...