Turpin Peak. A German expedition led by Philip Rosenthal was unable to reach the summit of its chief objective, Mazena Peak (23,300 feet), which lies above the Rupal valley south of Nanga Parbat. They did climb Turpin Peak (c. 19,000 feet), which ...
Dhaulagiri, Southwest Buttress of West Face, Attempt. The 13-man Japanese Kansai Expedition, led by Dr. Yoshito Tsukazaki, unsuccessfully attempted the southwest buttress of the west face of Dhaulagiri. Base Camp was established in the Myangdi Kho...
Higher Cathedral Spire, Northwest Face. The first ascent was made on June 6–7 by Tom Frost and Royal Robbins. This route involved eleven pitches, 180 pitons and six bolts. One of the pitches took five hours to complete and needed 36 pitons and fou...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. During the last three years the D.M.C. has been revitalized by a core of enthusiastic students, with 1993 being another active year. With heavy snowfall and abundant ice, a winter-skills workshop was run by members t...
Alpamayo. On August 20 we climbed Alpamayo. Vitaliano Alvarón was on my rope* and Basques Emilio Hernando and Juan San Sebastián were on the other. Camp was on the north col. We left camp at six A.M., a little late because it had been snowing befo...
Longs Peak. On July 13 James Burbank and I added another new route to the East Face. Ours, the “Shining Slab”, follows the second major crack system north of the Diagonal Route and is about a rope-length south of Field’s Chimney. We climbed a sing...
Sancayuni West Face. Look up the Río Chekapa lobe of the Linco Valley and you will see Sancayuni (c. 5400 meters, 17,717 feet) with a west face half hanging glacier and half rock. On a Sunday last summer, Dave Bishop, Frank Zafran and I did the ha...
San Rafael Swell, Cinquenta Tower. On November 3, the day after my 50th birthday, Tim Toula and I made the first ascent of this tower. Paul Ross and I had climbed the first two pitches the day before. The flat-topped tower is located on the north ...
Colquecruz, Jatunriti, Cordillera Vilcanota. Detailed information is not yet available about the Rikkyo University expedition to the Cordillera Vilcanota. The leader was Yoshihiro Takiguchi and the members were Takeo Shimomura, Terashima, Ishizuka...
Mount Goode, Northeast Buttress, First Winter Ascent. On February 26 Cliff Courtney dropped Steve Mazzioli and me at the end of the plowed Stehekin River road, where we began the ski-in to Goode. Three days later we reached the valley beneath the ...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE TIE-IN FOR LOWERING, NO HARD HATColorado, Clear Creek Canyon, Cat SlabOn April 24, Heather Lower (25) died in Clear Creek Canyon. She was climbing west of Tunnel 5. (A few areas there include: Cat Slab, Dog House, Primo Wa...
Consummate Corner, Patricia Bowl. While ski touring in Patricia Bowl, above the 10,000-foot road in Rock Creek Canyon, I spotted a wall of granite crags that were hidden from the road. In July, David Wilson and I hiked into the cirque in just half...
British Columbia, Mt. Sir Donald. (See accident report) The victim, James Given, was given first aid for hip and leg injuries and considerable back pain. Fear of a fractured spine made a request for a litter evacuation necessary. A party of French...
Peaks above Kiar Nala, 1979. A four-man party from Warsaw made two first ascents above the Kiar Nala. After an acclimatization climb of P 5135 (16,848 feet), they ascended two peaks on the north side of the valley on June 20, 1979. Marek Harisimiu...
Wiencke Island, Ascents. On January 11, New Zealanders Mike Roberts, Lizzie Craddock, Richard Craddock, Amber Chisholm, Anton Woperis and Steve (last name unknown) started climbing from an anchorage near the Chilean base of Gonzales Videla. A long...
Mount Temple, North Face. The summer of 1969 was a rainy summer in the Canadian Rockies. During a brief respite Brian Greenwood and I did a new route on the north face of Mount Temple. Our route follows a 3000-foot rock rib up the left side of the...
Arches National Park. The park, four miles north of Moab, has been the object of many a climber’s attention since the lifting of the ban on climbing named features in 1987. On the Zippy Zebra Wall, good new routes have been added in 1988, includin...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park. On 18 July, Lendol Leach (19) and six companions had gone on an overnight trip to Waterfall Canyon. They had left the marked trail and got into what was described as off-trail rock scrambling. While they were at...
Mountain Rescue Techniques by Wastl Mariner. First English edition translated by Otto T. Trott, M.D. and Kurt G. Beam; edited by Harvey H. Manning and Howard R. Miller. Innsbruck: Oesterreichischer Al-penverein, 1964. 195 pages, 117 sketches. Dist...
Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I), North Face Attempt. Granger Banks, Richard Soaper, Lyle Dean and I arrived at Gasherbrum I Base Camp on May 19 after eleven days on the Baltoro approach with 23 porters. After placing a food cache at 21,325 feet in the ...