Central Tower of Paine, East Face, Golazo. In February, Steve Schneider and Christian Santileces began a new line on the 4,000-foot east face of the Central Tower of Paine. Over four weeks, they fixed nine pitches in between the British route and ...
Schweizerland, Mt. Forel, Pepe e Isabel; Perfeknunatak, Al Tran-tran. 4V X-trem is a project that involves climbing virgin or rarely visited mountains in extreme areas. The first phase took place from May 21-June 10, when a team from Madrid, Curro...
Wheeler Peak by the Northeast FaceRoy M. GorinAstupendous vertical unclimbed rock wall—this was the challenge that brought Don Clarke, Harvey Hickman, Si Ossofski, and me to Wheeler Peak in eastern Nevada. Only two weeks earlier the same challenge...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNew Hampshire, Cathedral Ledge, RecompenseIn October, on the third pitch of Recompense, my partner, Mark, was ten feet from topping out and went to plug a cam and popped off. He was 15 feet above his last piece, ...
The Himalaya, Aspects of Change. J.S. Lall and A.D. Moddie, editors. Oxford University Press, New Delhi, 1981. 481 pages, color photo graphs, maps.This is not a book of peaks and climbers. It is more a kind of en cyclopedia of the Himalaya, dealin...
Dronning Maud Land, Various Ascents, Previously Unreported. In December, 1999, and January, 2000, our dream of dreams came true when, sponsored by the Elvia Insurance company, we traveled to Queen Maud Land, a beautiful mountain region in Antarcti...
Pedra Pão de Açúcar, Pão de Minas. I still don’t know if I was invited or just imposed myself. All I know is that after a year of working as a big-city paulista (one of 20 million inhabitants of São Paulo), I was stressed and doubting the existenc...
FALL ON SNOW–INTO MOAT, PARTY SEPARATED California, Little Slide CanyonOn Saturday, July 20, 1986, Bruce Raabe reported that his partner, Lester Needham (45), was missing. They had been hiking up Little Slide Canyon on July 19 with the intention o...
Nevado Ulta to summit ridge cornices, northwest bowl. At midnight on July 8 Brits Al Powell and Owen Samuel left a high bivy below the glacier and headed for Ulta’s prominent, unclimbed northwest bowl. Their route ascends the couloir to the right ...
This season fewer people visited Aconcagua and the weather was bad, with many days of snowfall. Unfortunately, there were six casualties (only one climber died last year). There were 197 rescues (46 of them complex), which is a decrease from rec...
STROKE, POSSIBLE HACE, ASCENDING TOO FAST Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 3, 1988, two members of the “New York Alpine Club” Korean Cassin Ridge expedition were hoisted from a camp at 5500 meters into a Chinook Helicopter by the U. S. Army’s 228th A...
Nameless Peak (11,000). On June 23rd Carl E. Sampson, H. L. McClintock, and Frank McClintock (aged ten) climbed a peak due west of Mt. St. John (“indicated by the 11,000 contour circle which makes a dot for the I in ‘National’ ”).
A Review of Oxygen SystemsChris Chandler M.D. and Thomas Hornbein, M.D.“... I know the answer to the problem of oxygen systems—climb without oxygen,” Doug Scott.IN January of 1976 a group of climbers became interested in obtaining a permit for Cho...
Lalaga Ri Attempt. A nine-man Japanese expedition led by Yutaka Yasui failed to ascend unclimbed Lalaga Ri (6666 meters, 21,870 feet), which lies in Tibet 14 miles northwest of Shishapangma. Base Camp was established at 4900 meters on May 4, Advan...
Annapurna, North Face, Reconnaissance. Four expeditions went to the north face ofAnnapurna I last spring and encountered constant and sometimes terrible avalanches; all of them abandoned their attempts after climbing no higher than 6750 meters. Th...
Mexican Expedition to the Cordillera Real. The Mexican Expedition to the Bolivian Andes visited the Cordillera Real during the winter months of June, July and August and reached eight important summits. Three of these were in the Illimani group. O...
JOHN HENRY STRONG 1867-1960On January 19 of this year, the American Alpine Club’s oldest member, Dr. John Henry Strong, died in Santa Barbara, California, at the age of 93.Dr. Strong was a Baptist minister and teacher, and the son of one. As a boy...
Longs PeakRobert M. OrmesIT happened that I was in the Rocky Mountain National Park last summer helping the Fox Movietone News with one of their occasional projects to over-and under-paint the Sensational Sport of Mountaineering, when it was vigor...
Our ledge, hanging cockeyed and dripping wet, was our only refuge from the tempestuous storm that had been lingering now for five days. Alex, Mark and I had tried three days in a row to lead one miserable pitch with no luck. “I can’t believe how ...
Shipton Spire, new route attempt. Bulgarians Milkana Ruseva, Dimitar Tzolov, Stanimir Zhelyazkov, and I climbed a variation start to Ship of Fools. We started up the face between Akelarre and the 1992 American attempt, joined the former, and after...