The summer of 2000 was another exceptionally dry one in the Teton Range. Many of the big alpine routes on the Grand Teton were essentially dry rock climbs by midsummer, a condition that has become all too common during the last decade. The Black I...
FALL ON ROCKNew Hampshire, Cathedral Ledge, RecompenseA party of two climbed Recompense, and the leader fell while on the crux third pitch. He fell 10 to 15 feet and hit a ledge, badly breaking his leg. The climbers had the experience and knowledg...
Koskulak (7,028m), first and second ascents by the west ridge and third ascent by the north face. Koskulak is situated in the Muztagh Ata Range and can be reached by the same route and logistics as Muztagh Ata itself. Until 2005 it remained unclim...
Everest from Tibet in the Pre-Monsoon. The Nepalese government’s limited number of permits to climb Everest from the south is clearly having its effect. In the spring of 1993, fifteen expeditions on the Nepalese side put a total of 81 men and wome...
The Japanese Manaslu Expedition, 1953Y. MITABY April 13th all the expedition members had gathered at Sama base camp (12,664 ft.). The caravan, in two parties, consisting or 15 Sahibs, 2 Nepali interpreters, and 270 porters had taken 18 days from K...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY – ROPE TOO SHORT, INATTENTIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Manure Pile ButtressI’d like to say it was a cold, blustery, winter day and our heads were foggy and our brains numb from the bitter temperatures. And I’d lik...
Peak 5,600m, first ascent; Dangchezhengla (Bongonzhong, 5,830m), north side. Steve Hunt, Dick Isherwood, Peter Rowat, and I spent October in Western Sichuan, exploring the northern approaches to Yangmolong (6,066m) and attempting to climb it. In g...
FALL INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPED, INEXPERIENCEBritish Columbia, Coast Mountains, Tchaikazan GlacierThe accident occurred during the Alpine Club of Canada Vancouver Section summer mountaineering camp in the Tchaikazan Glacier area, 110 miles no...
FALL ON SNOW-CARRYING TOO MUCHAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn May 23 around 0800, Priska Landolt (30) of the Glaronia-Swiss Expedition was descending below the fixed lines around 15,000 feet when she hooked her left ski tip and heard a pop...
Patagonian Orocline Expedition—1967-68Kerry Burns, UnaffiliatedIN 1967 AND 1968, MIKE RICKARD AND I, had the chance to explore one of the worlds’s most uncharted regions in the name of science.Our trip really began in 1954 when the English physici...
Canyonlands. Jeff Achey and I did several noteworthy new routes in Can- yonlands in October. On The Lighthouse we climbed Lonely Vigil (II, 5.9) the central crack system on the secluded, back side of the spire. An unknown party had also recently c...
Infinite SouthAn infinite journey on an infinite wall by Ermanno SalvaterraIn the early days of October we confront the south face of Cerro Torre where, the year before, we had ascended nearly 200 meters. On that attempt our friend, Fabio Stedile,...
Southern Appalachian Section. Throughout 2011, the Southern Appalachian Section focused on growing our membership base and producing relevant local club events. The Section's membership exhibited healthy growth across the region. This in turn enab...
Changabang and. Dunagiri Attempts. The members of our expedition were Andrzej Pawlik, Andrzej Mirga, Marek Kozik, Tadeusz Preyzner, Zbigniew Dudrak, Dr. Andrzej Pilc, Wojciech Paszynski and I as leader. We had hoped to attempt the north side of Ch...
Heather L. Paul 1970-2005The most touching part of Heather Paul’s memorial service occurred near the end. A nurse and several physicians she had worked with came to the podium and paid tribute to an aspect of her life that we mountain comrades had...
Mt. St. Elias, ascent and paraglider descent. On June 16 Hamish Robertson (Australia) became the first person to paraglide from the summit of Mt. St. Elias. He flew all 18,000 vertical feet of the mountain and 21 miles horizontally to land on the ...
Mt. Judge Howay, north face and ski descent. At the beginning of March, Scott Murray (U.S.) and I climbed and skied the north face of Mt. Judge Howay. Judge Howay is located in the Coast Mountains in Mount Judge Howay Provincial Park, which is dir...
Kang Guru. A Japanese expedition led by Shuichi Torii climbed Kang Guru (6981 meters, 22,904 feet) by the west ridge, following the post-monsoon 1982 route of the Yugoslavs. They had three camps above Base Camp. The summit was reached on October 1...
FATIGUE–FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, EXCEEDING ABILITIESWisconsin, Devil's Lake State Park, ChicagoTwo male climbers (ages unknown) were leading Chicago (5.9) at Devil’s Lake State Park. “Josh” climbed the crux of the route but soon afte...
P 6850. There are two Bugaboo-like rock peaks that rise between the lower Kahiltna and Lacuna Glaciers, which had never been attempted. Jim Okonek flew Clay Wadman and me to a glacier landing at 4000 feet. After setting up camp, we immediately set...