Antisana Sur, South Face, 1993. The south face of Antisana’s splendid southern peak (5580 meters, 18,307 feet) is an unstable rock wall, crowned by loose ice and snow. At the end of December, 1993, six Quito climbers, Oswaldo Alcócer, Peter Ayarza...
SLIP ON SNOW, FAILURE TO SELF-ARRESTWyoming, Disappointment PeakOn August 4, 1991, at 1445, Kent Fortner (22) and Thomas George (20) were attempting to climb Disappointment Peak via the east couloir above Amphitheater Lake. Approximately half way ...
FALL ON ROCKKentucky, Red River Gorge, Roadside CragOn November 20, a climber (age unknown) on Ro Shampo (5.12a) “smashed” their belayer into the boulder below the climb because they forgot to unclip the belay end of the rope after cleaning bolt #...
The Arctic Grail: The Quest for the North West Passage and the North Pole, 1818-1909. Pierre Berton. Viking, New York, 1988. 672 pages, illustrations, maps, bibliography. $24.95.Pierre Berton, Canada’s sixty-eight-year-old popular historian, bring...
Little Switzerland, Various Ascents. In July, Mike Woolridge, Rob Pease, Campbell Mercer and Matt Walsh were active in Little Switzerland. In their notes to the Denali climbing rangers, they reported the following ascents. North Troll, an eight-pi...
Cho Oyu. An Australian expedition led by Rick White made the 68th ascent by the normal route when Michael Groom reached the top of Cho Oyu on May 22. They then made an unsuccessful attempt on the north buttress, reaching 6800 meters on May 22.Eliz...
In October 2008 José Maria Alvarez, Antonio Fernandez, and Josue Roibal, all from the Spanish island of Mallorca, flew via Nepalgunj to Talcha (2,748m, three hours walk from Rara Lake), and trekked via Mugu to the Kojichuwa Valley (possibly also r...
Jannu, north face attempt. The all-star team of Erhard Loretan, Fredéric Roux, Ueli Steck, and Stefan Siegrist attempted the north face of 7,710m Jannu but were defeated at around 7,100m by the storms and heavy snow fall that plagued the Kangchenj...
RAPPEL ERROR—INADEQUATE PROTECTION Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Murchison, Murchison FallsOn November 23, a party of two were beginning the rappel descent of this waterfall route (180m, V, WI4). On their third rappel, the first climber got part...
Changabang (6,864m), north face attempt. The Korean Changabang North Face Expedition was led by Chung Seong-kwon and had as members Ha Ho-sung, Kim Ji-sung, Lee Keun-tak, and Lee Min-sook. They arrived at base camp (4,600m) on May 3, established a...
Nanda Devi East. Because of the closure of the Nanda Devi Sanctuary, the only access to Nanda Devi East is from outside the sanctuary. There were four expeditions to the mountain. Britons Julie-Ann Clyma and her husband Roger Payne hoped to climb ...
Kagbhusandi Tal, Peak AC 150 (5,030m), Dhanesh Parvat (5,490m), Kankul Peak (5,080m). To celebrate the links between the Alpine Club and the Himalayan Club in the year of the AC’s 150th anniversary, Harish Kapadia organized an expedition to the Ka...
Pico Polaco, Attempt, and South Face of Mercedario. The Club Andino Mercedario of San Juan is one of the oldest and most active of the Argentine Mountain Clubs. This year they commemorated their 50th anniversary. A group of the club went to the Va...
Lucania and Steele. Kevin O’Connell, leader, Peter Cummings, Brad Nei- man, Peter Steele, Martin Zabaleta, Basque, and I were flown to the upper Chitina Glacier from Kluane Lake by Andy Williams on June 16. Our Base Camp was at 8500 feet and we pl...
FALL ON ROCK, FALLING ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDWashington, Mt. ShuksanOn July 18, 1980, Dick Sawyer (48) died in a fall while climbing Mt. Shuksan with eight other members of the Mazamas. The party was not roped. The climbing party had reached the Fi...
Moab. On a 25-meter varnished slab in Sevenmile Canyon 100 meters northeast of the 18-mile marker on US 13 Richard Pietro and I put up two very enjoyable face climbs. Petticoat Gumption (5.9) used one drilled angle placed from stances. Five weeks ...
Mt. Foraker, first winter solo. On day 39 of my expedition, I stood atop Mt. Foraker. It was March 10, 2007, at 5:03 p.m. The temperature was -50°F, with 20-30 knot winds, making a wind chill of almost -100°F. I only stayed for 10 minutes, but thi...
Climbs in the La Lung and Ringor Valleys, Ladakh, 1980. In July 1980 Mike Tait, Dick Price and I travelled up the Suru River and set up a Base Camp in the La Lung valley at the point opposite the junction of the main La Lung Glacier with a side gl...
Kang Guru Attempt. A German expedition of eight unsuccessfully attempted to reach the northwest ridge of Kang Guru (6981 meters, 22,904 feet) by its west face. They had three high camps. The leader Bernhard Scherzer and Peter Brill reached 20,350 ...
P 7500+ (“Werewolf”), Anenome Buttress, Ruth Gorge. On July 14, Klaus Geisswinkler and I were flown by Doug Geeting to the Ruth Gorge. On the 6th and 7th, we climbed on a rock face on the west side of the gorge but had to give up the attempt becau...