FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO CHECK TIE-IN KNOTNew Hampshire, Black Jack CreekOn June 15, 1985, Mack Johnson (29) and Kit Dover (34) were sharing top ropes with two local climbers at the Black Jack Creek bouldering area near Rumney, New Hampshire.Johns...
Mountaineering in the Tetons: The Pioneer Period 1898-1940, by Fritiof M. Fryxell—Edited by Phil D. Smith, Jackson: Teton Bookshop, 1978. 180 pages. Price: Hardback $8.95; Paperback $5.95.This unique little book by two Teton pioneers whose Teton m...
Qioqe and Alfred Wegener Peninsulas, West Greenland. The Upper Hesse Greenland Expedition had as its objective unclimbed peaks in the Qioqe peninsula at 72° N. Members were Robert Kreuzinger, leader, and his wife Anne, Kurt Diemberger, climbing le...
Colorado: Devil’s Head, near Deckers. On 27 September 1949 James L. Naudack (18) was climbing over the rocky surface of this small mountain and attempted to jump a crevice. Failing to make it, he slid 15 feet down the face of the boulder formation...
In July, Nate Farr and I with the support of the AAC’s McNeill-Nott climbing grant attempted a new line on Caraz II, but were stopped by loose, overhanging rock down low. We returned to Huaraz, disheartened and without a mission. Adam French...
Cho Oyu Attempt. A Slovene (Yugoslav) expedition attempted to climb Cho Oyu by the south ridge. The leader was Matjaž Pecovnik. Marjan Frešer, Franc Knez and Danilo Tic reached the expedition’s highest point at 7700 meters, the highest point so fa...
Tocllaraju, MGLA to Northwest Ridge. On July1 Mitja Glescic, and I climbed a new route on the west face of Tocllaraju (6,032m). The route begins in the middle of the rocky section on the left side of the wall and then angles slightly to the right....
Redoubt Volcano to Double Peak, Chigmit Ski Traverse. Following a six-day delay, due to weather, Al Curtis of Alyeska Air Service landed our party in a low pass at 3500 feet, northwest of Redoubt. We were Steve Hackett, leader, John Samuelson, Hel...
INADEQUATE PROTECTION—RAPPEL ANCHOR KNOT FAILUREAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount RundleOn July 2, 1989, two climbers were beginning to rappel down the Rundle Ridge area of Mount Rundle. The first climber started rappelling using a mechanical brakin...
A newcomer to the fold of Mountain Clubs is the “Dolomite Club” of Winnipeg, founded about a year ago by a group of enterprising members of the American and Canadian Alpine Clubs resident there. Not being blessed with anything higher than a haysta...
Satopanth Tragedy. Indians hoped to climb Satopanth from the north. Dr. Minoo Mehta, Nandu Paghe and a high-altitude porter were buried in an avalanche on May 21 when they were resting in their tents at Camp II at 6000 meters. Leader Bharat Manghr...
Menlungtse, Attempt, and Milarepa, Ascent. We arrived at the upper meadows of the Menlung Valley beneath the north face of Menlungtse on September 3. We set up Base Camp (4900m) in the normal monsoon weather of clear mornings followed by rain in t...
Everest, First Ascent by a French Woman. This expedition was intitiated by Marc Batard, who hoped to climb Everest by the normal South Col route, spend the night on the summit and to climb Lhotse by the normal route the next day. With this in mind...
Shisha Pangma. Six of a nine-man American party ascended Shisha Pangma in the first week of May by the northeast face, the original 1964 Chinese route. It was the second ascent by Americans and the ninth ascent. The party consisted of Jerry Clayto...
La Conquête du Fitz-Roy, by M. A. Azéma. 8vo., 225 pages, with 16 photographs, maps, diagrams, and sketches. Paris: Flam- marion, 1954. Price, 600 Fr. francs.The ascent of Fitz-Roy in 1952 ranks with the great A1pine north-face climbs of the 1930’...
Lhotse, South Face Attempt. The nine-man Japanese Kanagawa Mountaineering Federation Expedition was led by Ryohei Uchida, supported by Mitsuo Hiroshima and Maruhisa Sunagawa. They failed to climb the steep rock south face of Lhotse. The highest po...
A.A.C., Rocky Mountain Section. During 1955, members of the Rocky Mountain Section gathered for three pleasant evenings to meet distinguished mountaineering guests. In March we were privileged to hear Professor Noel E. Odell review some of his cli...
Antisana Sur, South Face, 1993. The south face of Antisana’s splendid southern peak (5580 meters, 18,307 feet) is an unstable rock wall, crowned by loose ice and snow. At the end of December, 1993, six Quito climbers, Oswaldo Alcócer, Peter Ayarza...
SLIP ON SNOW, FAILURE TO SELF-ARRESTWyoming, Disappointment PeakOn August 4, 1991, at 1445, Kent Fortner (22) and Thomas George (20) were attempting to climb Disappointment Peak via the east couloir above Amphitheater Lake. Approximately half way ...
FALL ON ROCKKentucky, Red River Gorge, Roadside CragOn November 20, a climber (age unknown) on Ro Shampo (5.12a) “smashed” their belayer into the boulder below the climb because they forgot to unclip the belay end of the rope after cleaning bolt #...