FALL ON ROCK, NO BELAY, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Thompson Creek AreaOn August 14, 1981, a party of four backpackers were climbing through steep cliff bands when one member of the party experienced difficulty in climbing a section of r...
Makalu. On May 21 I succeeded in climbing Makalu* (27,825 feet) with Nawang Tenzing, one of our Sherpa expedition members. Our Austrian-German-Nepalese expedition had three Sherpas as full members but no high-altitude Sherpa porters. Already on Ma...
Talkeetna Range. On October 1 my wife Grace and I made the first ascent of “Hoary Peak” (6057 feet), an important landmark mountain, highest in the Willow Creek drainages. We had walked in ten miles from the Craigie Creek road the day before and m...
Biale, Baltoro Karakoram. Our expedition consisted of Fumiyoshi Shigematsu, Tokiyoshi Kimura, Chitose Okada, Mikio Hamada, Tadanori Ochiai and me as leader. Base Camp was on the right bank of the Baltoro Glacier near the junction of the Mustagh Gl...
Pisco West, Southwest Face. Gustavo Montalvo and Alejandro Pérez Rayon (México) made a possible first ascent on the southwest face of Pisco West. Pinches de Güey (TD, 90° mixed, 60-70° snow) involved six pitches with 50-meter ropes and was climbed...
Tiquimani. A South African expedition, led by D. Robert Reinecke and composed of Harold Hill, Dr. Robin Sandell, Nicholas Coetzee, Donald Good, Malcolm Griffin and the Chilean Germán H. Mills, climbed in the Cordillera Real. Their first objective ...
Shah Fuladi, Western Hindu Kush. After their try to climb Tirich Mir, (see above), the Tokai University group went to climb Fuladi Shah (16,862 feet), 90 miles west of Kabul. From Bamiyan they drove an hour by jeep up the Fuladi valley and continu...
Peaks at head of Pech Valley, Nuristan. After attempts to get permission to climb in Pakistan had failed, the Afghan embassy in Washington was approached about climbing in the Hindu Kush and they encouraged our plans. The expedition, which consist...
Skunk Canyon. On the east face of Square Rock, Christian Griffith led Yellow Christ (50 feet, 5.12a R), ascending a very overhanging wall via a layback crack and face above. The climb had been top-roped by the first ascentionist prior to leading. ...
Kluane National Park Reserve, mountaineering summary and statistics. During 2003 in Kluane National Park Reserve, 140 persons participated in 42 mountaineering expeditions. This accounted for 2,279 person-days in the Icefields of Kluane. This is s...
Muzcol Area, Various Ascents. It was reported that the British-based company, EWP, led two trips into the Muzcol, a group of high summits in the southeastern corner of the Pamir. The first took place in 1996, when a team made ascents of five uncli...
Atunraju and other peaks in the Chinchey group, Cordillera Blanca. Three climbers left Spain by boat with 30 cases of food and equipment weighing about two tons. The rest of us flew to Peru. We all gathered in Huaraz on June 6. Coming from the Bas...
Ulu Mountain, St. Elias Mountains. Organized as a special event of the Second Artic Winter Games, our party was made up of Martyn Williams, Scott Foster, Jim Boyde, Louis Lambert and me as leader. We all reached the 10,160-foot summit of our objec...
FALL ON ROCKWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkOn May 15, 1983, about 1415, the South Shore Office was notified that there had been a fall on the East Bluff. About 1420 I went to the fall site. About 1425, OfficersPyfferoen and Zipsie responded fro...
Yale Mountaineering Club. The winter of 1961 saw several trips to the White Mountains for climbing in Tuckerman and Huntington Ravines, mostly of a training nature to provide experience to new members. During the spring there was the usual concent...
Mount Everest, East (Kangchung) Face Reconnaissance. In late October I flew from Chengdu to Lhasa to reconnoiter the approaches and routes on the east side of Everest in preparation for the 1981 American Everest Expedition. Accompanied by liaison ...
Asan, Forever Yak, Previously Unreported. In July, 1998, Martin Waldhör and I spotted an obvious dihedral and crack system that leads above an initial slab straight through the south face of Asan to finish high up on the southwest arête left of th...
Rock for Climbing, by C. Douglas Milner, viii+128 pages, with 97 photographs by the author. London: Chapman and Hall, 1950. Price, 25/-.In Rock for Climbing C. Douglas Milner presents an excellent picture book of climbs in the English Lake Distric...
Ascarani, Peaks in Soral Groups, Cordillera Apolobamba, and Illimani, North Ridge of North Peak, Cordillera Real. Our expedition from Manresa, Spain, of the Centro Excursionista of the Bages district was highly successful. We carried out ethnologi...
Paine Towers, Various Ascents, 1987. Italians Fabio Leoni, Giuseppe Bagattoli, Michele Cagol and Josef Espen made the first ascent of the southwest buttress of the South Tower of Paine, reaching the summit after four days of climbing on November 1...