Climbing Activity in Zion National Park. The climbing seasons of 1995 were affected by heavy spring rains, the typical scorching hot summer, and Peregrine Falcon closures. Many of Zion's cliffs are closed from February to July 15 for their breedin...
STRANDED, FATIGUE, PARTY SEPARATED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, WEATHERAlaska, Mount McKinley“Expedition McKinley” a group from France, spent the night of May 10, 1992, at 17,000 feet on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley, without a stove. A stove had ...
“P 6400*” (P5969). Tapovan is a normally a beautiful Base Camp with grass and water. After we arrived on May 2, unusually heavy and continuous snowfall turned it into a torture from the start. The days went by and every morning we had to remove th...
New Routes in Chamonix: North Faces of Grands Charmoz and Grand Pilier d’Angle. During the Rassemblement International, Americans did some fine climbs in the Chamonix region. Steve Zajchowski and I were the representatives of the American Alpine C...
Diran. Two successful climbs of Diran (7257 meters, 23,810 feet) have been reported in 1991. An Italian expedition was led by Martino Moretti. Moretti, D. Deianna and P. Paglino took six days to ascend the north ridge. The ridge rises 2200 meters ...
Yosemite Climbing. Interest in Yosemite climbing seems to be growing internationally. There were three ascents of the El Capitan Nose, one by a two-man French team. Later in the season a group of British climbers, including Don Whillans, arrived f...
Bhagirathi III (6,454m), direct southwest pillar, Stairway to Heaven. From the summit of Shivling in 1996 I saw the challenge: to find a direct route on the ridge of Bhagirathi III, because the southwest pillar route by the Scottish team of 1982 d...
British Columbia Mountaineering Club. The year 1974 was a weird one for the weather in British Columbia. Record snow packs were followed by a summer which didn’t arrive until August, but which pushed warm weather through into November. Our spring ...
Cerro San Enrique, P 5650, Cerro Bengala. In July, Thomas Miyagawa and I made basecamp at the Malla Chuma Mine at 4800 meters and from there climbed three surrounding peaks. The first was Cerro San Enrique (5620 meters), which we climbed on July 1...
High Altitude Medicine and Pathology. Donald Heath and David Reid Williams. Butterworths, 1989. London, 352 pages. $95.00.The authors are senior pathologists, well traveled in the mountains of Asia and South America, and authorities in the patholo...
Leaning Tower, Wet Denim Daydream. In the summer, Darly Hatten and I climbed this variation of the Harding route. It involves five pitches of overhanging aid up to A3. Begin on the left end of Awahnee Ledge nailing in a white curving dihedral, and...
Middle Teton, No Cumbre, No Ruta. On July 14, Alex Lowe and I climbed No Cumbre, No Ruta (WI5 M7 A0, 240 m) on the north face of the Middle Teton. From the Lower Saddle, approach the north face as you would for the Goodrich Chimney and/or the Jack...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, MISCOMMUNICATIONS Oregon, Blue River, Flagstaff Climbing AreaOn September 17, 1994, I (Katie Mynes-Petty, 35) was third to climb the route “Deep Pockets.” A top rope was s...
The Temptress, Ascent, Previously Unreported. In April, 1998, while exploring one of Zion’s many backcountry canyons, Andrew Nichols and I stumbled onto a gem of a wall. “The Temptress” is 800 feet tall, sleek, sheer, and straight as a rail. From ...
FALL ON ROCK, INEXPERIENCE New York, Shawangunks, Shockley’s CeilingOn September 6, 1996, Robyn Williams (19) and I—Sean Hartman (21)—were climbing the classic climb Shockley’s Ceiling (5.6) at the Gunks. I had been climbing for about six months, ...
Goldenhorn, Northeast Arête. August 8 Jim Walseth and I climbed this buttress. From Snowy Lakes the arête was gained by descending one of the many couloirs which exist on the Goldenhorn-Tower barrier. Following the obvious line of the ridge, eithe...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED California, Yosemite ValleyOn June 19, Jeff Drinkard (18) and Steve Larson (19) were climbing the Royal Arches route. On the 15th pitch, they unroped for a 4th class section. When they came to the last pitch, a 5.4 f...
Pilot Knob, South Face. This rounded but steep 600-foot dome at the northwest end of Grave Lake rises at the edge of the trail: one can literally rope there. In 1966 Jerry Fuller and I climbed to the final ledge on the south face, using 52 pitons ...
Grand Teton, West Face of the Enclosure. For those acquainted with the esoterica of the Grand Teton, one of the most interesting regions lies west and north of the Enclosure, the high point west of the Upper Saddle. Two features had attracted my e...
TABLE IVComparison of Injury Rates in Selected Sports Rates Are Per 1000 Contact PeriodsInjury ratesInjury ratesSkiing (1)5.90WinterMountaineeringIce Hockey6.811955 Report0.98Track1.761958-62 National Parks† 2.70Basketball1.31College Sports (2)Swi...