Northern Rockies Section. In March, Access Fund Policy Director Jason Keith asked the Section to rally a letter writing campaign in support of re-opening the Twin Sisters at Idaho’s City of Rocks for climbing. Thanks are due to all who responded. ...
On September 12 Ty Mack, Mike Anderson, and I made the first ascent of Last Go Round, on the northwest buttress of Temple Peak. The route takes a pronounced splitter crack on the far left side of the buttress. I had attempted the route in the f...
K2: The Story of the Savage Mountain. Jim Curran. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1995. 271 pages. Black-and-white photographs, 16 in color, seven maps and topographical drawings. $24.95.Many are the books about individual expeditions to K2, the world’...
FALLING SNOW/ICE—CORNICE COLLAPSEWashington, Mount Rainier, Panorama PointOn April 30, Rainier Mountaineering, Inc., was conducting the second day of their annual guide tryouts. There were 52 applicants and about 15 RMI guides who had hiked to the...
Wind River RangeGannett Peak was climbed by several new ways this past summer. Henry Coulter, Beckett Howorth, and Charles Webb ascended by way of the N. E. snow face to a saddle on the N. ridge just below the big step. From here the N. ridge was ...
Big Four, Tower Route. This 4000-foot north-side route was completed by Ben Guydelkon and Ron Miller on July 25. From the end of the ice-caves trail, they traversed to the northeast side of the first tower to a prominent gully. Climbing this gully...
Sivalaya, by Louis Baume. Reading: Gastons-West Col Publications, 1978. 316 pages, 30 sketches and maps. Price £12.Not everyone will appreciate this book, but for the next several years it will remain the definitive work on the history of the 8000...
Cascades summary. It was another good snow year in the Cascades. After a stable period in February, cool and snowy conditions generally prevailed into spring. In late March, Jens Holsten and Dan Hilden climbed a new line on the northeast face of C...
FALL ON ROCK–UNCONTROLLED RAPPEL, INADEQUATE BACKUPColorado, Clear Creak CanyonOn October 20, I took a friend out to climb. It was her very first time, so I wanted to toprope something that was fairly easy. The climb is called Countersuit, a 5.9 t...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED NO PROTECTIONCalifornia, High Sierra, Middle PalisadeOn August 22, a group of eight Sierra Club members were ascending the Northeast Face of Middle Palisade (3rd class). The party was moving adequately, but slowly. The party w...
Gongga Shan, North Face and Northwest Ridge Ascent and Tragedy. Our expedition was composed of Ruedi Alder, Guido Bumann, Claus Coester, Andreas Eschmann, Georges Herren, Thomas Hess, Kurt Weibel and me as leader. We had planned to climb the mount...
Caraz II, south face variation. After we returned from the Huayhuash we climbed in the Blanca. Viktor Mlinar and I decided to climb the Fisher-Warfield-Sheldrake route on the south face of Caraz II (6020m), also called Caraz de Santa Cruz. The rou...
Peaks near McCarthy. The British Schools Exploring Society’s overwintering expedition ran from October 1989 to July 1990 with three groups, each staying about three months. In each, there were eight to twelve young members aged 17 to 20 years with...
On 27 October Warren Harding (44) and Galen Rowell (28) began an ascent on the unclimbed South Face of Half Dome. It was late in the year, but the weather looked good for the future and they both had equipment in the experimental stages, namely...
STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, LATE START,CREATING A HAZARDOUS CONDITION California, Yosemite Valley, Sentinel FallsGene St. Denis (33) journeyed to Yosemite by skiing from Lake Tahoe to Sonora Pass, and then hitchhiking to Yosemite Valley. He le...
British Columbia, Border Peak. On 5 July Eryl Pardoe (24) and nine companions had just completed an ascent of the Northeast Face of American Border Peak and were descending below the col between the American and Canadian Border Peaks. The party co...
In recent years little mountaineering information has come out of Bolivia. This may partly be due to there currently being no agency or individual committed to collecting mountaineering information, particularly activity relating to new routes ...
Four Miles High, by Josephine Scarr. London: Victor Gollancz, Ltd., 1966. 188 pages plus 32 pages of photographs. 5 sketch maps. 36 sh.Two separate all-woman expeditions into the high Himalayas are intriguingly reported and dramatically pictured i...
M6, Mandaras Valley. An Italian expedition from Ascoli was led by Francesco Saladini and composed of Pinetta Teodori, Maurizio Calibani, Giuseppe Raggi, Giuseppe and Carlo Fanesi and Giancarlo Tosti. They ascended the last unclimbed 6000er of the ...
Cerro La Junta, Viaje a la Luna Creciente. In the grassy meadows of a high plateau, after six hours of horse packing along a muddy trail with several delicate river crossings, Jens Richter and I were surrounded by snowcapped mountains that towered...