Old Routes and New in the Cordillera BlancaCharles FowlerI WENT TO SOUTH AMERICA in May of 1988 to pursue my profession as a mountain guide. For starters, I traveled to Bolivia and escorted a group from Illinois up the standard route on Illimani S...
Winter ascents of 8,000m peaks, commentary. Katia Lafaille, wife of the renowned Jean Christophe Lafaille, recently reported about the excellent achievement of her husband on Shishapangma, which took place on December 11. Much to my surprise the i...
Vascos al Himalaya: 1974-1992, crónica de una aventura. Antonio Ortega, editor. Pyrenaica. Bilbao, Spain, 1992. 264 pages, 364 color illustrations. Hardbound.Everest: el desafío de un sueño. Rodrigo Jordán. Editora Ograma, Santiago, Chile, 1992. 1...
Yosemite Valley, 1982. Rock climbing continues to flourish in Yosemite National Park, and each year there seem to be more climbers in the valley than the previous year. Certain areas are extremely crowded on the weekends in the spring and fall, no...
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mt. Moran—On August 25, Judy Grove (20), Pat Van Elton (20), and Barbara Nelson (20) all seasonally employed by the Grand Teton Lodge Company, rowed across Leigh Lake in a borrowed boat and set off up the easter...
Cholatse, Southwest Ridge, 1993 Solo Ascent. I went to Nepal along with the 1993 American Cholatse team on September 23 (see AAJ 1994, page 218). After a few days of recovering from bronchitis and other problems at Base Camp I started the ascent o...
Paine Towers. Two expeditions, one English and the other Italian, strove for the same objectives during the first days of 1963 in a most unfortunate rivalry. They were struggling to reach the unclimbed summits of two of the sheer granite spires of...
Mount Pool, Badshot, Selkirks. On August 18 my wife Gretchen and I drove from Argenta to Beaton and then along the Imcomappleux River to the abandoned mining town of Camborne at 1800 feet. We packed up a jeep road along Pool and Mohawk Creeks for ...
An Alpine Traverse of Fairweather and Quincy AdamsJames WickwireFOR several years I had regarded Mount Fairweather as a formless blob of snow, but on a flight to Anchorage last February I caught a close but fleeting glance of sharply defined ice r...
FALLING ROCK, HANDHOLD FAILEDQuebec, Mont Gros BrasS.C. (25) and R.B. (29) were climbing “Valerie Reverie”, a 5.8 route at Mont Gros Bras. R.B. was leading the chimney on the third pitch when he pulled off a large rock which hit S.C. on the left s...
Alone on Dorje Lhakpa Carlos BuhlerDorje LHAKPA IS A RELATIVELY UNEXPLORED BUT BEAUTIFUL PEAK in the Jugal Himal, in the southern part of the same group that includes Shisha Pangma. It is 55 kilometers northeast of Kathmandu, near the eastern end ...
The First Ascent of Brussels PeakRaymond C. GarnerIN THE SUMMER of 1947 my wife and I spent two and one half months making movies in the Canadian Rockies. We travelled the Banff-Jasper highway many times, and became quite familiar with the view ju...
The Age of Mountaineering by James Ramsey Ullman. Philadelphia:J. B. Lippincott Company, 1964. 364 pages. Price $7.50.The 1964 edition of James Ramsey Ullman’s The Age of Mountaineering differs little from its 1954 predecessor. The author has appe...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONAlberta, Banff National Park, Bow FallsOn February 12, The Mountaineers party began their approach across the frozen lake at 9:00 a.m., with all on snowshoes except Gordon Schryer (32), who was on skis. They arriv...
New England Section. On March 20 the New England Section held its 14th annual Formal Dinner at the elegant Henderson House in Weston, Mass. Walt Hampton displayed his photographs Where Awe Dwells: Journeys in the Great Ranges. Our guest speaker wa...
Emperor Ridge, Mount Robson. Our spirits were high as Ron Perla and I hiked up above Kinney Lake under our ponchos late Sunday afternoon, July 16. We felt fortunate to find the often attempted Emperor Ridge still unclimbed. Monday morning was clea...
Kanchenjunga, via First-Ascent Route. Our 20-person expedition left Munich for Kathmandu on March 9 but had delays caused by customs on the Indian frontier, final permission difficulties, a shortage of motor transport and a lack of porters. The tw...
Climbing in Czechoslovakia and East Germany. My trip to Czechoslovakia was much enhanced by the warmth and hospitality of the many Czech climbers with whom I climbed. Our first climbing was on the 50- meter limestone cliffs just outside of Prague ...
Mount Everest. Our team members were Lloyd Gallagher, John Amatt, Tim Auger, Robert Baillie, Alan Burgess, James Blench, Dwayne Congdon, Jim Elzinga, Roger Marshall, Dave McNab, Pat Morrow, Dave Read, Gordon Smith, Laurie Skreslet, Don Serl and I ...
Peak 11,300', Baja Lime. Dakota Soifer and I, both of Boulder, Colorado, decided to vacation on the West Fork of the Ruth Glacier in May 2001. We finished finals, packed our gear, and flew to the Last Frontier.On our second day on the glacier we “...