STRANDED, HYPOTHERMIA, WEATHER Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount YamnuskaRob, Loree, and Bob started up the scree slopes of Yamnuska under a clear blue sky on June 4, 1994, to climb the 5.8 route “Belfry” on Mount Yamnuska. By the time they reached ...
Mount Deborah, West Face. Dave Lucey and I flew into the Yanert Glacier April 28 and moved camp to the base of the first icefall. The key to the first icefall is getting an early start before the rocks on the left start falling. The second icefall...
Arniko Chuli, first ascent and survey. In the summer of 2001, I began topographical research of the mountains west of Lo Manthang and Chharang, and made the first ascent of Arniko Chuli (6,034m). Arniko Chuli is at the northern edge of the range b...
The Swabian Andean Expedition, 1961Richard HechtelTranslated by H. Adams CarterThe Cordillera Blanca has been declared by many the most beautiful mountain chain in the world. Its relatively easy accessibility makes it particularly attractive as a ...
K7 Reconnaissance. Bob Barton and I made a reconnaissance of K7 (22,750 feet) during the first three weeks of September. We found that K7 would be difficult from the Chogolisa Glacier and could best be attempted from the Kondus side. By climbing a...
Ascents in UgandaGeorge Hurley, MarmotsRUWENZORI CLIMBSIn mid-December my wife Jean and I drove from where we teach at Namilyango College near Kampala, to the western Uganda town of Fort Portal. The next morning we got from the District Commission...
The First Ascent of Mount McKinley, 1913A Verbatim Copy of the Diary of Harry P. KarstensPreface and Footnotes by Bradford WashburnThe original is reproduced here exactly as written, including misspellings and abbreviations. It was written in penc...
Changi Tower, attempt. Previously unreported from 2005 is the ascent, but not to the summit, of a previously unclimbed line up the east pillar of one of the formations that makes up the Changi Tower. Jordi Comas from Barcelona, Oriol Ribas, and I ...
FALLING ROCK, LOOSE ROCK, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS Wyoming, Wind River Range, Seneca LakeA backpacking and climbing party of eight, all from Minnesota, left the trailhead at the Elkhart Park Guard Station, in the Winds, on July 17, 1992, at 1200. The...
FitzRoy by the SupercouloirJosé Luis Fonrouge and Carlos E. Comesaña, Centro Andino Buenos AiresTranslated by H. Adams CarterAs if the Pampa, tired of meekness, were kicking up its heels to shake off its centuries-old pace, the fantastic pyramid o...
DAVID DUANE PAISLEY1961–2000Colorado Springs-based professional guide and mountaineer David Paisley died May 31 as the result of a crevasse fall while descending Mt. Bona in Alaska after a successful ascent.An all-around alpinist, Dave was a nonsp...
FALL ON SNOW – LOSS OF CONTROL ON VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENTWashington, Mount Rainier, Near Camp MuirOn the afternoon of July 17, a group of friends from Fort Lewis Air Force Base were coming down from Camp Muir after a ...
FORESTA HODGSON WOOD 1904-1951Seldom in any lifetime does one meet a person successful in so many ways, so gifted and so charming as Foresta Hodgson Wood. During her full and happy days, she warmed and enriched the lives of all who knew her. Prosp...
Two Japanese Expeditions to Mount Logan’s East Ridge. The Kansei Gakuin University Expedition was led by Kinichi Murota, who was flown in with supplies by Jack Wilson to the base of the mountain. The others, Kazuo Senda, Takuo Imai, Ichiro Mitoda,...
Mount Fury, North Rib. From our camp on the Challenger Arm, Fred Beckey and I contoured south on the glacier past Crooked Thumb and Phantom to the northwest base of Fury. Here we crossed under the main ice cliff on Fury, rushing through a few aval...
The West Ridge of Mount CrillonLoren H. Adkins, UnaffiliatedON May 16 Bruce Tickell, Marsha Adkins and I set out from Juneau in a 13-foot Boston Whaler outboard. In a day we traveled to Johns Hopkins Inlet in Glacier Bay, picking up Dick Benedict ...
Gran Trono Blanco. On March 29 and 30, Paul McLaughlin and I completed the second ascent and first clean ascent of the intimidating south wall (A.A.J., 1976, p. 477). We used the one and only fixed piton, a baby angle driven ¾ of an inch for the t...
On October 25 Alexey Korochkev, Sergey Nilov (both from Moscow), and I left Kathmandu for Besisahar, with the aim of making the first ascent of Thulagi. We had little information on this mountain, the best being a report from the 2008 Japanese exp...
1951-761977GeographicalDistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta57239912215British Columbia923116216940Yukon Territory101028090Ontario3638204Quebec6220101East Arctic000205W...
Bandaka Group. Setting out on June 10, the Manchester Hindu Kush Expedition travelled overland to Afghanistan, using an ex-army truck. It took us over a month from Manchester to Ghonju. In twelve days we completed the 95-mile walk, with men and ho...