Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table II

1951-20022003Geographical DistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta46813099822426British Columbia293108621626Yukon Territory342675000New Brunswick000100Ontario37967000Quebe...


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche, Utah, Big Cottonwood Canyon

AVALANCHEUtah, Big Cottonwood CanyonOn February 17,1986, Brad Lindser (18) and Cameron Carpenter (18) were ski-boarding,as were several others, on an unimproved area near the Brighton, Guardsman Pass when they were caught in a fast moving avalanch...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Chalten Massif, Cerro Torre; Saint Exupery, Chiaro di Luna; and Aguja Rafael, Artebelleza

Cerro Torre; Saint Exupery, Chiaro di Luna; and Aguja Rafael, Artebelleza. The weather in Patagonia this year dished out its usual tricks. Between December 15 and February 15 there were five climbable days—windows of good weather more than 16 hour...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascades, New Climbs

New Climbs in the Cascades. For those who tire of sea-level recreation in the Pacific Northwest there are always the ice-crested Cascades to beckon the adventurous, and to those adventurers not fully satisfied with following established routes the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Sikkim, Gurudongmar, Dongkya Range

Gurudongmar, Dongkya Range. Four members of an expedition led by G.C. Bhutia from the Sonam Gyatso Mountaineering Institute climbed Gurudongmar (6715 meters, 22,030 feet), which lies in northern Sikkim. The first ascent was made in 1936 by Eric Sh...


Feature Article AAJ
Storm and Snow in the Selkirks

Storm and Snow in the SelkirksAndrew John Kauffman, 2ndTO speak with pleasure of two weeks of perpetual snow and rain, of attempts on peaks which, ordinarily simple, were so cluttered with spring snow that progress was practically impossible, of f...


Feature Article AAJ
The First Ascent of Mount McArthur

The First Ascent of Mount McArthurDonald Monk and George WallersteinMount McArthur, 14,000 feet, is an impressive, double-summit peak just north of the Logan massif in the St. Elias range. Prior to our ascent, it was probably North America’s secon...


Feature Article AAJ
Two Polish Ascents of Everest

Two Polish Ascents of EverestMarek Brniak and Józef NykaThe Winter Ascent. Polish climbers were the first to climb to a height over 7000 meters in winter. On February 13, 1973 Tadeusz Piotrowski and Andrzej Zawada set foot on the summit of Noshaq ...


Feature Article AAJ
The East Face of Liberty Bell

The East Face of Liberty BellAlex BertulisALTHOUGH Washington State is well known for its picturesque mountains which lie in full view of its cities and highways, until recently only a handful of mountain climbers and fishermen ever ventured into ...


Book Reviews AAJ
The Call of the Mountains

The Call of the Mountains, by Colin Wyatt. 96 pages, 75 illustrations and 9 sketch maps. London: Thames and Hudson, 1952. Price, 35/-.The “call” is ski-mountaineering. The places are many, but mostly less-known mountains. About eight illustrations...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Antarctica, Sentinel Range, Vinson Massif, Vinson, New height (4,892m), First Ascents of Sub-Peaks, Many New Peak Names

Vinson, new height (4,892m), first ascents of sub-peaks, many new peak names. As the name implies, Vinson Massif is a large bulk of mountain with numerous summits. Though the main summit, first climbed in December 1966, has now had over 950 ascent...


Club Activities AAJ
Sierra Club

Sierra Club. Mountaineering activities continued on many fronts during 1955. Group outings during the summer included High Trips or Base Camps in the Tetons, Glacier National Park, Mount Rainer, northern Yosemite National Park, and the Minarets an...


Feature Article AAJ
Psychological Aspects of Mountaineering

Psychological Aspects of MountaineeringJ. W. A. HicksonIT would indeed be a very confident and naive person who believed that, at this stage in the history of mountaineering, anything new could be said concerning the reasons which lead, or even im...


Feature Article AAJ
Shishapangma's Southwest Face

Shishapangma’s Southwest FaceDouglas Scott, Alpine Climbing GroupSHISHAPANGMA LIES a hundred miles west-northwest of Everest to the north of Nepal and wholly in Tibet. The Tibetan name means “The Crest above the Grassy Plain.” The Sanskrit name, G...


Feature Article AAJ
Aquilpo and Atlante, Cordillera Blanca

Aquilpo and Atlante, Cordillera BlancaGary Ziegler, unaffiliatedclimbing in the Andes defies all attempts at organization and planning. Despite knowing this, months in advance we prepared plans and complex time-tables of where and when we would be...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai, Karavshin, Ak-su valley, Pamir Pyramid, West Face

Ak-su valley, Pamir Pyramid, west face. The Anglo-German team of Daniel Danzer, Jens and Michael Richter, Markus Stofer, and Sarah and Tony Whitehouse climbed a new route on Pik 3,700m, the pyramid that stands immediately west of the Russian Tower...


Notes ANAM
Regional Safety Activities

Geographical Distribution of Accidents:1947-19531954Atlantic States—North 113South10Colorado293Utah40Wyoming163Montana & Idaho33Arizona & New Mexico41California185Oregon143Washington146Alaska13Practice Cliffs All Areas42TerrainRock8316Snow...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, China, Kun Lun Shan, Chakragil, West Ridge

Chakragil, West Ridge. While taking advantage of a free week during a visit to the far reaches of Xinjiang Province in northwestern China, I climbed the west ridge of Chakragil (22,071'). I took no map or altimeter and am therefore uncertain of th...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Protection Came Off California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Muir Wall

Although I had climbed several walls in Zion, I had never climbed El Capitan; in fact, I had never even been to the Valley. Yosemite, and El Capitan in particular, had been built up in my mind, the ultimate destination and the ultimate goal. ...

| Published 2011


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Baintha Kabata, First Ascent Pakistan, Karakoram, Panmah Muztagh

Baintha Kabata is the peak in back in the center, as viewed from the upper Choktoi Glacier, near base camp. The Turgeon-Haley South Ridge is the left skyline. Photo by Maxime Turgeon Maxime Turgeon and I traveled to the Choktoi Glacier in Aug...

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| Published 2008 | Author Colin Haley