Pamirs. A Moscow dispatch dated 17 December 1947 reports that two previously unnamed peaks in the Northwestern Pamirs have been climbed and named. One (6400 m.) now commemorates the Thirtieth Anniversary of the Soviet Revolution; the other (7000 m...
PIERRE BEGHIN1951-1992Another of the world’s foremost mountaineers has lost his life in the Himalaya. Pierre Beghin, the Frenchman who during the last decade broke the barriers of the impossible, was killed on October 11 on the south face of Annap...
During February 2011 Darryl Kralovic and I attempted a 5,321m peak in the Yulong Xueshan. This is the easternmost prominent peak in the northern half of the chain. After hiring a car and driver in Lijiang on the 11th, we traveled to the Jade...
Jannu. Our team of the Basque Mountain Federation consisted of Angel María Abrego, leader, Iñaki Aldaia, Xabier Muru, Patxi Senosiain, Josema Casimiro and me as doctor. We had two high-altitude Sherpas, Ang Kami and Ang Nima. We established Base C...
Buckskin Glacier, Various Activity. Ben Gilmore, Kevin Mahoney, Mike Wood, Scott DeCapio and I flew to the Buckskin Glacier on September 20. On September 24, the five us made the second ascent of Mooseskin Mountain (Peak 8,300') by skis. Sliding r...
RAPPEL ERROR—INADEQUATE PROTECTION, FALL ON ROCK, INEXPERIENCE IN OUTDOOR CLIMRING, WEATHERWyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Symmetry SpireOn July 7, around 1600, John Hehr (48) fell to his death when his rappel anchor on the Southwest Ridge rou...
Henry S. Hall, Jr. Memorial Everest Relief ModelBradford WashburnIN MEMORY OF HENRY S. HALL, Jr., a new and unique exhibit is being made at the studio of Vigo Rauda in Seattle. It will be completed in mid summer of 1990 and will be first shown to ...
An introduction to the geography of the Eastern Nyanchen Tanglha (Nyainqentanglha) and a journey from the waters of the Yi’ong Tso to the primarily Bomi village of Bake along the lower Yi’ong Tsangpo. The “Alps of Tibet” east of the Himalaya sprea...
With the completion of the 1946 issue, the editorship passes into the competent hands of Robert H. Bates and David Allan Robertson. The growth of the Club and its many activities makes the editorial work a two-man job, and the new regime will secu...
Yosemite Valley, various activity. While it has not been on the free-climbing cutting edge for decades, Yosemite still ranks as the world’s premier big-wall arena. With new lines a rarity, this lately has meant hard free-climbing on the massive wa...
Himalchuli Attempt. An 11-man Japanese expedition from Gaku- shuin University, led by Hideo Nishigori, failed to climb Himalchuli by its south ridge, which would have been a new route. They placed five camps on the mountain. On May 4 they reached ...
FALL ON ROCK – RAPPELLED OFF END OF ROPESNorth Carolina, Grandfather Mountain, ShiprockOkie McCornis (28) and his partner spent July 17 climbing on Shiprock, a popular climbing area located on Grandfather Mountain’s East Side. After ascending B.O....
“Snake-Bit” in the Alaska RangeJack TackleTHE EAST FACE OF MOUNT BARRILLE is the size of Half Dome and yet it is dwarfed by its neighbor, Mount Dickey. The center of the face had only one route, that done by Austrians in 1988 (AAJ, 1989, pages 74-...
American Mount McKinley Expedition. Since the study of recent aerial photos before leaving home had raised serious doubts as to whether the condition of the Muldrow Glacier would allow us to reach the base of Pioneer Ridge, we had chosen the south...
Miscellaneous Information Numbers Refer to Number of Persons Involved1951-621959-621963U.S.CAN.U.S.CAN.TerrainRock3654567Snow21722172River2000Unknown0000Ascent or Descent(River crossing not included)Ascent 26816365Descent 2729354Unknown 43120Imme...
FALL ON ROCKCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn May 17, 1982, Warren Lee (24) and a partner had just finished a technical climb of the Washington Column and were traversing third-class terrain toward the descent gully. Lee attempted to cross a low-angle...
Nevado PucahircaHARVEY N. PLATTSThe Cordillera Blanca of Peru was the objective of our expedition in the summer of 1955. This great range, lying almost on the equator, contains the highest mountains in the world in the tropical zone. It is difficu...
TRANSIENT ISCHEMIC ATTACK (TIA)Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Glacier GorgeAt 12:15 pm on August 5, I (43) suffered a transient ischemic attack (TIA) four pitches up The Barb on Spearhead.As I belayed Kelli’s (my climbing partner) lead of...
Japanese Himalayan ExpeditionsI. HIMALCHULI, 1960Jiro YamadaIn commemoration of the centenary anniversary of Keio University, an expedition to the Himalayas was programmed, and this was the earnest desire of our club since before the war. In no ti...
New Hampshire, Mt. Washington. On 14 March Craig M. Merrihue (31) and Daniel E. Doody (32) were climbing the fourth pitch of Pinnacle Gully in Huntington Ravine, a steep and difficult ice climb on water ice. Dan Doody was presumably in the lead wh...