Ketil Attempt and Ascent of Pingasut, South Greenland, 1991. A French expedition composed of Vincent Buffin, Bruno Lambert, Emmanuel Ratouis, Isabelle ??????, Bruno Martel and Alain Hoffman climbed above Tasermiut Fjord in July of 1991. In unstabl...
STRANDED, CLIMBING ALONE, INEXPERIENCE California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn June 29,1989, my daughter and I were alerted by tourists that somebody was yelling for help on the back side of Intersection Rock. Upon inspection, we found a solo ...
P 13,040+, Third Needle, Trail Camp Crag, Lone Pine Peak, The Duck, The Turret. P 13,040+ lies just north of Mount Powell. On the right side of the east face is a straight-up crack that goes from the ground to the summit ridge, finishing north of ...
AMS, INABILITY TO COMMUNICATEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 21, 1991, Japanese climbers Hiroshi Sakurai (28) and Hiroshi Urayama (34) arrived at 15,500 feet on the Haston-Scott route on the south face of Mount McKinley.The pair had ascended 3,500 f...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face Attempt. The members of our expedition were Dr. Paul Robadey, Pierre Morand, Alexis Bally, Christian Haymoz, Vincent Banderet and I as leader. We arrived at Base Camp on June 5. We placed Camps I, II, III and IV (in the B...
Shivling and Meru North Attempts and Tragedies. Two groups from Palencia left to climb in the Gangotri region of Garhwal together. Our party consisted of leader César Tomé Ondicol, Enrique Fernández, José Luis Becerra, Juan Antonio Ordoñez and me;...
Going Higher: the Story of Man at Altitude. Charles S. Houston, M.D. Published by Charles S. Houston, M.D., 77 Ledge Road, Burlington, Vermont 05401. 288 pages; illustrated with drawing, black-and-white photographs and 8 pages of color photographs...
Alpine Club of Canada. The 1973 General Mountaineering Camp was held near Glacier Lake in Banff National Park. The three-week camp attracted 176 participants. A new concept which proved very successful was that of having the regular two-week camp ...
Tilitso Attempt. Seven South Tiroleans led by Othmar Zingerle attempted to climb Tilitso (7134 meters, 23,406 feet) by the northeast spur and the north ridge. Their high point of 6200 meters was reached on November 5.Elizabeth Hawley
La Reina Roja, southwest face. I first visited the Trango group in 2000 to try the Slovenian route on Nameless Tower. Our expedition was unsuccessful, and it took me seven years to return to Pakistan. There are not many big-wall climbers in Mexico...
FALL/SLIP ON LOOSE ROCK—Wyoming, The Tetons, Baxter’s Couloir. John Wahlund (22) was a member of a five person party which had climbed Baxter’s Pinnacle. They had just completed the rappel from the Pinnacle and were beginning to descend the South ...
FALL ON ROCK, IMPROPERLY PLACED ROLTS, EXCEEDING ABILITIESIllinois, Drapers RluffOn April 1, David Krupp (26) fell 30 feet from a 5.10 bolted route. He set out with three experienced climbers to ascend his first bolted route. He was a skilled begi...
“Doubtful Tower,” Bella Coola Icecap, 1979. On August 20, 1979 Fred Beckey, Bill Lahr, Brad McCarroll, Roy Ratcliff and I took off from Nimpo Lake, made an airdrop at our proposed Base Camp and then were flown to Ape Lake. Our approach involved cr...
Swiss in Garhwal. A Swiss expedition visited Garhwal in 1947 under the leadership of André Roch. Other members of the party were Mme. Annalies Lohner, René Dittert, Alfred Sutter and Alexander Graven. A base camp was established at the terminus of...
Himalchuli Attempt. Nine Japanese led by Ken Hashimoto attempted Himalchuli (7893 meters, 25,895 feet) by the unclimbed southwest ridge. Two members reached a high point of 24,925 feet on October 24 on this very difficult route. Their progress had...
RAPPEL FAILURE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONUtah, Diamond ForkOn September 24, 1982, Lyal Holder (56) was the course instructor for a beginning rock-climbing class from Brigham Young University’s Education Department. The class was practicing rappelling....
Mount Alberta, Northeast Ridge. During the first week of August, Jack Lewis and I climbed the northeast ridge of Mount Alberta. We bivouacked the first night at the base of the upper black band, the second on an airy site on the knife-edged cornic...
CB 13a. Japanese Takashi Aoka, Masanobu Ohuchi and high-altitude porter Pyarl Lal climbed CB 13a (6240 meters, 20,473 feet) on August 10 from the South Dakka Glacier. The leader was Takashi Chiku.
Numbur. Helmut Muller and I traveled to Jiri by bus and then made a seven-day approach via Junbesi, Basa Drangka, over a 4352-meter pass to the Dudhkunda Khola. We set up Base Camp on October 10 at 4600 meters at Yüligolcha, a little lake on the w...
East McMillan Spire, North Buttress. On September 18 and 19 Doug McNair and I climbed this 2300-foot buttress. Beginning near its lowest point, we basically followed the right side of the buttress, gaining the sharp crest just below the summit. Th...