Third Needle, Whitney Needles, East Face. In late August, 1966 Mike Heath solo made a new route on the Third Needle, climbing the prominent chimney splitting the upper east face.
Traverse of the Brooks Range from Kaktovik to Kotzebue. On March 25 with 100-pound loads, Chuck Comstock on Nordic racing skis and I left Rokotvik, Barter Island, Alaska and headed west across sea ice. Our bottle of 80-proof whiskey froze the firs...
Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Mt. Otis. On 25 July at about 3 P.M. a party of six climbers in the Rocky Mountain Guide Service Mountaineering School was participating in a rock climbing demonstration and practice on a rock formation on t...
Dhaulagiri. Dhaulagiri was climbed in 1960 for the first time by a Swiss expedition, led by Max Eiselin, by the northeast ridge. Now, 20 years later, Eiselin organized another expedition to the same mountain, open to all experienced mountaineers. ...
Shiprock, East Face, Secret Passage Route. In September Harvey T. Carter and I climbed a new route on the east face of Shiprock beginning at an improbable, thin crack about 200 feet south of Honeycomb Gully. We ascended two steep pitches to the “C...
Mount Torbert and Other Peaks, Tordrillo Mountains. Alaskans Tom Choate, Gary Lawton, Jerry Minick and I climbed in this range, which is visible from Anchorage. Lowell Thomas, Jr., one of the 1964 first-ascent party of Mount Torbert, flew us to th...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, INEXPERIENCE Alberta, Banff National Park, Grotto Canyon, Paintings WallOn July 18, a climber who fell roughly 30 feet off a wall near the pictographs at Grotto Canyon was rescued. J.G. (51) was leading a 5.9 climb ...
Colorado Mountain Club. 1963 marked the first time the Colorado Mountain Club has conducted an outing outside the United States. Forty members went on the club expedition to the Cordillera Blanca of Peru, reported on in Climbs and Expeditions. Sta...
Kalanka. We set out from Lata on September 11 and six days later reached Base Camp on a moraine lake north of the Uttari Rishi Gal. For three days we reconnoitered the approaches to Kalanka over the Uttari Rishi Gal but found it would have taken t...
Dragontail. Three new routes were added on this peak. The Northeast Buttress, Grade III or IV, 5.7 or 5.8 by Fred Beckey, Ron Burgner, and Tom Nephew; the North Face, Grade II, F7 by Fred Stanley and James F. Wickwire; and an ascent of the longest...
History and Relative Heights of Tiquimani’s Three Peaks. Tiquimani, one of the finest peaks in the Cordillera Real, has long posed a problem for Andean historians. Two fundamental questions have gone unanswered: which is the true summit, the west,...
Alaska Alpine Club. The flag of the Alaska Alpine Club was carried by the C4M4 Mount McKinley Expedition on its successful Karstens Ridge venture in early summer. Unfortunately one member, who did not reach the top, developed cerebral edema on the...
Ascents from Warren Glacier. Mr. and Airs. I. A. Richards, from a camp near the tongue of this glacier, in August, made several ascents. The first ascent of Northpost Spire was made by the easy N. E. rocks. Brenta Spire was ascended by the Northpo...
Expeditions in Patagonia. News has been very slow in arriving from the south and is (in late February) still quite incomplete. It appears that activity in the southern Andes has as always been badly hampered by the weather. There was only one peri...
Nameless Tower, Claire de Lune. Gabriel Besson, Claude-Alain Gaillan, David Maret and I arrived at Base Camp on the Dunge Glacier at the beginning of July. The route we opened, Claire de Lune (VI 6b A3, 1230m), lies between that of Michel Piola (G...
Kohe Keshnikhan, M7. A French expedition was in the Mandaras valley. Members were Louis Audoubert, leader, Monique and Georges Rouch, Guy Panozzo, Albert Pradal, and Jean and Marie Denise Dabos. On July 21 Audoubert, Mme Rouch, Pradal and Panozzo ...
Ojos del Salado, Puna de Atacama. After climbing in Bolivia, Ichiyo Muko, Go Nishimura, Fumihiko Imamura, Koya Takeshita, Akinobu Nakamura, Norio Yamamoto, Ryosecki Kanai and Ichiu Muko were joined by the Chileans, Sergio Kunstmann, Juan Tangol, J...
Southernmost of the Seven Sisters Mountains and Glacial Exploration, Ellesmere Island, 1987. On August 2, 1987, Dan Merfeld, Dave Slobodin and I made the first known non-aerial exploration of the snout of the Abbe Glacier (82°01 'N, 71°30'W), asce...
ASPHYXIATION, WEATHER, FATIGUEWashington, Mount RainierDr. John Weis and Donald Wiltberger, Northwest transplants from Ohio’s tabletop farmland, loved to climb mountains and showed that love up to their final moments on Mount Rainier’s steep peaks...
P 6702. After the six-man Japanese expedition led by Kijoji Aizawa had failed to climb the long east ridge of Bhagirathi I, one of the members, Takaaki Fujii made a solo ascent of P 6702 (21,988 feet) on September 24. This peak lies south of Vasuk...