Accident Reports ANAM
Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (1)

Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park (1)—On June 23, 1956 a party of three were glissading, unroped, down a large snow field leading into Garnet Canyon from the Middle Teton Glacier. Miss Patricia King (18) made an attempt to control her glissade by...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Mongolia, The Seven Summits in Seven Months, 1990

The Seven Summits in Seven Months, 1990. New Zealanders Rob Hall and Gary Ball reached the summits of the seven continents in just seven months of 1990. (It must be stated that they consider Mount Kosciusko in Australia and not Carstensz Pyramid i...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Central Alaska Range, Deborah, Hayes, Hess and Other Peaks

Deborah, Hayes, Hess and Other Peaks, Central Alaska Range. In April and May an Alaska Alpine Club sponsored group did some extensive climbing in the central Alaska Range. On April 14 Carl Tobin, Cliff Moore, Peter Hollis and I were flown to the Y...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Baintha Brakk Attempt

Baintha Brakk Attempt. Takeshi Nakazima, Kohtaro Toyoda, Takashi Kasai and I as leader set up Base Camp on June 17 at 4450 meters on the left side of the Choktoi Glacier. We started climbing on the 20th and established Advance Base at 4850 below t...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Australasia, Irian Jaya,Carstenz Pyramid, South Face Variation

Carstenz Pyramid, South Face Variation. Between November 8 and 10 our party of 10 climbers completed an approximately 25-mile approach to the bottom of the South Face of the Pyramid. Thereafter, nine of our climbers summitted the mountain on Novem...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Chimney Rock, East Face of the North Peak

Chimney Rock, East Face of the North Peak. In September a four-man party, consisting of Don Jones Jr., Jim Wickwire, Fred Dunham and me, approached this peak from Salmon La Sac via the Cooper River Trail. A difficult class 4 gully system on the ea...

| Keywords Wickwire
| Published 1963 | Author Barry Prather


Book Reviews AAJ
Die Jagd in der Schweiz

Die Jagd in der Schweiz. Two volumes, 297 and 295 pages, each volume containing 80 photographic illustrations, eight color plates and numerous sketches. Geneva: René Kister (French edition), and Winterthur: Gottfried Schmidt (German edition), 1951...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington - Cascade Mountains, Dome Peak, Southwest Face

Dome Peak, Southwest Face. A thousand feet southwest of Northeast Dome Peak is a 2000-foot granite face which Manuel González and I climbed in a round-about manner. Hoping to ascend the central buttress on this face, we approached the face from th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Wrangell-St. Elias Mountains, P.10,000+' and P.8580', Centennial Range

P.10,000+' and P.8580', Centennial Range, St. Elias Mountains. On April 25, Paul Claus flew Mimi McDougall and myself into the Centennial Range of the St. Elias mountains, landing at 7,200 feet on an unnamed glacier only two miles from the Canadia...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Mellizo Oeste or Steffan, Patagonia

Mellizo Oeste or Steffan, Patagonia. Jure and Peter Skvarca have just made the first ascent of the Mellizo Oeste (West Twin), a lovely rock and ice climb of the Paine Principal type but on a larger scale. The third member of this expedition of the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Real, Peaks in Ancohuma Group

Peaks in Ancohuma Group, Cordillera Real. Our expedition was composed of Jesús Herrero, leader, Francisco Granero, Juan Ramón Portillo, Julio Armesto, Felix Alonso, José Luis Pérez, the Argentine Gabriel Cabrera and me. From Mina Candelaria we mov...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Ruiche Gongga (5,928m), South-Southwest Face Asia, China, Daxue Shan, Minya Konka Range

A 23-member expedition, led by Kim Kyu-tae and sponsored by the GyeongBuk Alpine Federation, left Korea on July 22 and arrived at base camp (4,200m), on the west side of the range, on the 27th. At 2:30 p.m. on August 11 seven members reached the...

| Published 2010 | Author Peter Jensen-Choi


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, Penny Icecap

Penny Icecap. On May 22, Rimas Gylys, Eric Laurin, and I were dropped off at the snout of the Coronation Glacier. Hauling our gear on sleds and snowshoes, we traveled the 25-mile length of the Coronation Glacier and crossed the southern tip of the...


Accident Reports ANAM
California, San Gabriel Mountains, Echo Mountain

California, San Gabriel Mountains (4), Echo Mountain—Early in the afternoon of December 3, Mr. and Mrs. Bowers (27) another adult and six children (two of their own) ages 5 to 9, set out to climb Echo Mountain (3,207). The ascent was accomplished ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Cerebral Edema, Washington, Mt. Rainier

CEREBRAL EDEMA Washington, Mt. RainierBreck Haining was airlifted from the Emmons Glacier on Mt. Rainier on August 15 after suffering a seizure which may have been caused by cerebral edema, a rare high altitude sickness. He was discharged from Har...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Correction, Caullaraju Group

Correction, Caullaraju Group. The Japanese ladies did not climb the highest point of the Caullaraju group, as stated in A.A.J., 1967, 15:2, p. 390, but Nevado Brasil (18,491 feet).


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Istroronal, Southwest Ridge

Istoronal, Southwest Ridge. Reinhold Stauber led a nine-member Austrian expedition on the second ascent of Istoronal (7403 meters) via the southwest ridge, reaching the summit on July 19 at 10:15 a.m. The team experienced mixed climbing with the c...


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington, Cascades, Mt. Baker

Washington, Cascades, Mt. Baker. On November 2 Hans Jorritsma (30), and Joan Huckell (27) hiked in and established a camp at Camp Kizer on the north side of Mt. Baker. They carried skis and climbing equipment. At 4:30 A.M. on the third, they proce...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordilleras Vilcabamba and Urubamba, Cordillera Huanzo

Cordillera Huanzo. We spent some ten days crossing the high, arid, desolate, volcanic plateaus which separate the departments of Cuzco, Arequipa and Apurímac. We went from Santo Tomás to Antabamba. Getting to Santo Tomás with its irregular traffic...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Cheap Hooker

Cheap Hooker. The Black Canyon hosts some of the country’s most adventurous rock climbs and is notorious for epics, runout climbing, difficult route finding, and chossy rock. This past year saw Topher Donahue and I up a few new routes. The Hooker ...