Mont Français, Anvers Island, Antarctic Peninsula. After a five-week passage through gales, fickle winds, heavy seas and finally a maze of sea ice in the mist, the steel ketch Northanger, specially designed as a mobile base in polar conditions, wa...
STRANDED, DEHYDRATION, SEVERE NOSE BLEED, CLIMBING ALONECalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn June 25, 1984, Paul Truecki (19) was rescued from the west face of Leaning Tower. He suffered a severe nose bleed and subsequent heavy loss of blood that left hi...
Washington, Glacier Peak. On 30 July Mike Boyko (42) had been a member of a party that had made a successful ascent. On reaching the summit he asked permission of the leader to leave the party and to make a more rapid descent as he and another per...
FALL ON SNOW—LOSS OF CONTROL ON VOLUNTARY GLISSADECalifornia, Mount WhitneyOn April 10, Patrick Wang (27) and Martin Kozaczek (27) climbed the Mountaineer’s Route on Mount Whitney. On descent, around 14,000 feet, there is a steep traverse on a sno...
Mount Alberta’s North Face and Northeast Ridge. Mark Wilford’s remarkable solo climb of this route is described in a complete article earlier in this Journal.
FALL ON ROCKAlberta, Kananaskis Mountains, Mount LougheedOn July 31, 1988, Brian Wallace (29), Jeff Marshall, and Steve Demaio (23) were climbing the north face of Munt Lougheed. All were experienced climbers. Late in the afternoon, they were on a...
Menthosa, Women’s Ascent. A four-woman Japanese expedition led by Midori Morishita in August made the first ascent of the mountain by women. They established two high camps on the east ridge, by which the mountain was first climbed. Those who reac...
Paldor Peak Group, Attempts. Sabine Krol and I were in the Ganesh Himal from February 12-March 6. Our goal was to make first ascents on mixed rock and ice faces on climbed and unclimbed peaks in the Paldor Peak group. Unfortunately, we had a lot o...
Poincenot, El Sacrificio del Raton. At its best, alpinism challenges not the heights of distant mountain ranges, but the limits of human cognition, our ability to dream, create, and remember a reality that perhaps never existed anywhere but in our...
Dhiang (a.k.a. Kampur), First Ascent. Our group in the Nangma Valley was made up of Andrei Volkov, Andrei Mariev, Ivan Dusharin and myself. In early July, we traveled to the Nangma Valley in the eastern Karakoram. Though we were impressed by our s...
Tirokwa, West Face. We were a small expedition, two people, Jill Lawrence and I. Our objective was the west face of Mount Thor, but after hearing of the Japanese team’s bolting epic and subsequent failure, we turned to the west face of Tirokwa. Th...
Cho Oyu, West Side from the South, Ascents and Attempt, Post-Monsoon. On September 29, Russians Vyatcheslav Skripko, leader, Mikhail Mozhayev and Yevgeny Prilepa reached the summit of Cho Oyu, having climbed in one day from 7200 meters. On October...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE Washington, North Cascades National ParkIn early August, 1988, Thomas A. Thomas (23) was soloing the southeast face of Mount Triumph. He apparently fell from 1970 to 1820 meters. The cause of his fall is unknown. He wa...
Monte Sarmiento Attempt. Philip Swainson, Susan Cooper, Henry Todd and I aimed to attempt the southeast ridge of Monte Sarmiento (2404 meters, 7888 feet). The only successful ascent to the east summit, the highest summit in the group, had been mad...
Appalachian Mountain Club. During 1960 the Appalachian Mountain Club, through its many members, participated once again in expeditions to almost all mountain ranges of the world, with greatest emphasis, as usual, in North America.The club issued i...
Spider Mountain, North Face. The large, steep firnfields on the north face of Spider Mountain had always interested me. One route on the north face had been climbed, but Spider is a broad mountain, with room well to the left for another nice alpin...
Mount Jeffers, Southwest Buttress. Dave Nettle and Geoff Creighton climbed a new line on the southwest buttress of Mount Jeffers. They did not reach the summit. They rated the climbing to their high point at 5.9, A3.
Reid Pletcher (22), and I (Mali Noyes) were climbing together on May 26. This was going to be our last climb of the day. He was leading the climb, placing gear as he ascended. When he was about 20–30 feet up the wall, he unexpectedly fell. At th...
K6 West Peak II (P 7040). The Toyama Sanyu-kai expedition, led by Shoko Saegi, left Khapalu on June 8 and reached Base Camp at the junction of the Gondokhoro and Chogolisa Glaciers at 12,500 feet on June 14. They proceeded south to the north side ...
Verónica Group, Cordillera Vilcabamba. An Argentine expedition of the Club Andino Tucumana headed by Orlando Bravo ascended two peaks in the Verónica group in the Cordillera Vilcabamba. On January 27, 1960, from a 16,000-foot camp above the head o...