P 6400 and P 5900 Ascents, and Bublimotin Attempt. Americans Lois Remington, Tim Dolan, Doug Lubes, and Scott Burch, after receiving permission from Pakistani authorities in Gilgit, established Base Camp at 3950 meters under P 6400 in the Chapchin...
Washington, Olympic National Park, Mt. Storm King. On August 18 Kenneth Yamauchi (19) and two companions, Stephen Jackson and Bill Hartford, all student trainees working in Olympic National Park, left the Storm King Visitor Center at 1:00 P.M. to ...
Cordillera Urubamba. The American Malcolm Moore and I visited the Abra Malaga (Malaga Pass) area. Leaving the Cuzco-Quillabamba bus at the top of the pass on April 25, we decided against an attempt in such stormy weather on Huacrahuilki (also know...
Rocky Mountain National Park, rapid ascents and enchainments. On the Diamond of Long’s Peak in early July, Tommy Caldwell and Topher Donahue climbed five routes, totaling 30 guidebook pitches, in 23 hours car-to-car (probably the most routes climb...
Whitney Portal Buttress. One of the most overlooked rock-climbing challenges of the Sierra seemed to lie at the end of the Whitney Portal road, above Lone Pine. Facing south, an elegant white buttress rises from a few hundred feet above the horse ...
Hayes Range Speed Traverse. On the first weekend of May, U. S. Ski Team member Audun Endestadt and I skied 140 miles across the Hayes Range in three days and four hours, winning a $1000 bet, which like gentlemen we declined to collect. With alpine...
Arizona, West Fork, Oak Creek Canyon (Sedona). On 15 February Dick Lee (22) was rappelling down an 80-90-foot cliff on a fast free rappel. He had completed two jumps and as he was pushing off into the third the rope (¾ inch manila and ? inch nylon...
Dhaulagiri, Pear Route Attempt, 1979. (Further and more accurate details of the Polish Gdynia-Gdansk expedition.) Expedition equipment was lost in a fire in Karachi during shipment, delaying matters. Base Camp was set up on September 1, 1979 at 15...
Christianity Tower, Church Towers. The Church Towers are a group of four striking red-sandstone monoliths south of Sedona in the Oak Creek Canyon area. The largest and highest had not been scaled when Joe Brown, Dan McHale and I arrived on April 5...
Ragged Peak, Central Alaska Range. On August 17, Robin Bayer, Logan Colby, Scott Benson and I made the first ascent of Ragged Peak (9160 feet), via the north ridge in eight hours round-trip from the Brooks Glacier.Greg Collins, National Outdoor Le...
FALL ON ROCK, NUT/CHOCK PULLED OUT Alberta, Banff National Park, Tunnel Mountain, The ShoeOn July 6, R B. was part of an “Advanced Mountain Operations Course” being run by the Canadian Military out of CPC Trenton. The group consisted of 14 student...
Colorado College Mountain Club. The year 1963 was one of mostly regional mountaineering for the CCMC. In addition to the usual array of Colorado peaks ascended, the group took to skiing, tobogganing, and increased spelunking. Three series of techn...
Nanda Devi Attempt. Our Australian expedition to Nanda Devi was unsuccessful. The team comprised Tom Miller, Gary Wills, Ed Neve, Hugh Foxcroft, Keith Egerton and me as leader. With 28 porters and 65 goats we departed Joshimath on August 23. Furth...
Mount Rainier, Willis Wall. On May 12-13 Ed Boulton and I made the second ascent of Willis Wall’s Central Rib. The climb was highlighted by numerous leads of continuous front-pointing on hard ice, a good-sized ice avalanche down the couloir parall...
Illimani, West Ridge, Illampu, Northwest Face, Huayna Potosí, West Face. Janez Zupanz and I spent two months in the Cordillera Real. After acclimatizing by climbing Condoriri and Alpamayo Chico, we climbed the west ridge of Illimani Norte (6402 me...
A.A.C., Sierra Nevada Section. Membership in this section is now an even 100, continuing a slow gradual rise. Although section members have been quite active in mountaineering over the globe and in all phases, these activities have been organized ...
Mannolata. Second ascent, August 24th, 1938. R. Brinton, G. Dawson. In the final portion a variant of the original route was made, but flanked the final 15-ft. pitch to the S. E. and ascended a small 20-ft. chimney.
Mercedario, Central Andes. Five Chileans attempted Mercedario (21,884 feet) but hindered by deep snow, they made slow progress. On February 10 only two of the group, Julián Bilbao and Gastón Muga, reached the top. They had used the western approac...
Trango Pulpit, Norwegian Trango Pulpit Direct. From June 28-August 4 (plus two days of fixing), Robert Caspersen, Gunnar Karlsen, Per Ludvig Skjerven and Einar Wold established the Norwegian Trango Pulpit Direct (VII A4 5.11, 48 pitches) on the Tr...
Shakhaur, North Pillar, Wakhan. The members of our expedition were Jean Paul Paris, leader, my wife Isabelle, Roger Dietz, Jean Pierre Fresafond, Paul Gendre, René Gillot, Claude Jager, Benoît Mathieu, Jacques Soubis, Jean Thomas, Felix Magnin and...