Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Manaslu, Northeast Face

Manaslu, Northeast Face. Thirteen members of the commercial Hauser Exkursionen International reached the summit of Manaslu (8156 meters, 26,760 feet). The leader was the Swiss Hans von Känel, who climbed his fifth 8000-meter peak. The summit was r...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Mount Howson

Mount Howson. A cairn, containing a bronze plaque, has been erected on the south col of Mount Howson in memory of Major E. R. Gibson, formerly president of the Alpine Club of Canada, who lost his life in the summer of 1957 in an attempt at the fir...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru-Cordillera Huayhuash, Rosac, South Face, and Other Climbs

Rasac, South Face, and Other Climbs. After climbing during June in the Cordillera Blanca, we New Zealanders spent July in the Cordillera Huayhuash. From July 5 to 7 Carol McDermott, Steve Rawsley, Craig Stobo and I climbed the west face direct of ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Slip on Snow, Fall into Moat, Climbing Alone, Inadequate Equipment — Utah, Mount Timpanogos

SLIP ON SNOW, FALL INTO MOAT, CLIMBING ALONE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTUtah, Mount TimpanogosOn May 23, 1982, Terrence Brown (28) left his residence at 0700 to hike up Mount Timpanogos. The following day, at 1000, he was reported missing. His dog was f...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Tierra del Fuego, Monte Sarmiento, West Peak, 1986

Monte Sarmiento, West Peak, 1986. Italians finally climbed the west peak of Monte Sarmiento. The east summit (2234 meters, 7730 feet) had been climbed by its south ridge on March 7, 1956 by Carlo Mauri and Clemente Maffei. Giuseppe Agnolotti led t...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock — California, Tahquitz Rock

FALLING ROCKCalifornia, Tahquitz RockIn May of 1984, Kimberly Eittreim (23) was killed when a rock weighing in excess of 240 kilograms, which was accidentally dislodged by the lead climber on Sahara Terror, fell a distance of ten meters and landed...


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington, Mt. Rainier

Washington, Mt. Rainier. On 15 July the Louden family, Melvin Louden (27), Phyllis Louden (26), Mark Louden (6), Kelly Louden (5), and Karen Louden (4) were returning from a walk to the Paradise Ice Caves (approximately 2 1/2 miles from Paradise R...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock—Handhold Came Off, Failure to Test Hold, Arizona, Camelback Mountain

FALL ON ROCK-HANDHOLD CAME OFF, FAILURE TO TEST HOLD Arizona, Camelback MountainOn December 26 K.P. (female-46), L.R. (male-53), and T.N. (female -50ish) went out to climb on Camelback Mountain, a park area located centrally in Phoenix. L.R. is a ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Interior Ranges of British Columbia, Middle Scottish Peak, East Face

Middle Scottish Peak, East Face. From the setting, rock and quality, this 5.6 climb deserves mention. From the North Star Glacier, the east face rises as a smooth slab. We climbed a pitch up the right side of the face to a prominent ledge, moved 1...


Accident Reports ANAM
Illness, Party Separated, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Edith Cavell

ILLNESS, PARTY SEPARATED Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount Edith CavellOn July 30, 1988, three climbers started early to climb Mount Edith Cavell via the East Ridge. They reached the first step at an elevation of 2940 meters, when one of the climber...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India–Himachal Pradesh, Dharansura, Angdu Ri

Dharansura, Angdu Ri. A 10-person expedition from Bombay made two ascents in East Kulu. On July 5 A. Ghosh, Miss V. Gadre, S.M. Farookh and W.M. Pinto climbed Angdu Ri (5953 meters, 19,530 feet). On July 8 leader Zuzer Rangwala, A. Eicher and Bada...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Tarke Kang, Ski Descent

Tarke Kang, Ski Descent. A small four-member group of Czech mountaineers (Robin Baum, leader, Vladimír Smrž, Vladimir Prieložný, Josef Peterek) traveled to Tarke Kang (a.k.a. Glacier Dome, 7193m) with the goal of climbing the north face and then s...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentina, Southern Patagonia, Desmochada, Puerta Blanca

Desmochada, Puerta Blanca. On February 7 Mario Walder (Austria) and I hiked in from Campo Bridwell to Niponino, the camp directly below El Mocho. In unstable weather we waited another day and only hiked to the base of the route to check everything...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat Range, Masherbrun Mountains, Shingu Charpa, First Ascent

Shingu Charpa, First Ascent. It was reported that Shin Dong-Chul, Bang Jung-Ho and Hwang Young-Soon, all of whom were part of the Korean team that attempted Amin Brakk in 1999, made the first ascent of Shingu Charpa (5600m) in July via the west fa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Northwest Territories, Logan Mountains

Logan Mountains. Hans Ueli Brunner, Paul Muggli and I left Switzerland in early June for the Logan Mountains. On June 19 to 21 climbed the Frost route on Lotus Flower Tower with much snow, though the conditions on the face were good. We climbed th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Cho Oyu, East Ridge Ascent and Tragedy

Cho Oyu, East Ridge Ascent and Tragedy. A team of 14 Russians, a Ukrainian and a Bashkir was led by Sergei Yefimov. They succeeded in climbing Cho Oyu (8201 meters, 26,906 feet) by the formidable east ridge, which has a 70-meter-deep gap with 80° ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Falling Rock, Washington, Magic Mountain

FALLING ROCK Washington, Magic MountainUlrike Criminale (52) fell to her death during a climb of Magic Mountain on July 31, 1988. She and Craig Dupler were climbing partners for this trip. Craig was also the climb leader.The group of six climbers ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine-Chilean Patagonia, Preliminary Report on the Southern Summer Season of 1993-4

Preliminary Report on the Southern Summer Season of 1993-4. On December 31, Argentines Teo Plaza and José Chaverri were making a new 1100-meter route on the Aguja Stanhardt’s east face (6b, A2, 80°). A hundred meters below the top of the face, Pla...


Club Activities AAJ
Alpine Club of Canada

Alpine Club of Canada. The 1960 ski camp was held at Berg Lake near Mount Robson during the Easter holidays, April 15-28. Ski conditions on the way to Berg Lake were not of the best owing to the late date of the camp. However, everyone had an enjo...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Juneau Icefields

Juneau Icefields. Our group of four spent from July 8 to August 1 on the Juneau Icefields, landing with Ken Loken on an unnamed lake on the British Columbia flank (above Tulsequah Lake) and made the combination hike and cross-country-ski trek out ...