FAULTY USE OF CRAMPON—FALL ON SNOW Alaska, Mount McKinleyThe Spanish expedition “Lleida McKinley ’96” had eleven climbers in the group, including Juanjo Garra (32). They began their ascent of the West Buttress on May 19. On June 1 at 1300, while a...

Everest, uncommon events on standard routes. In the spring a Greek expedition sent one climbing team to the north side and another to the south to carry to the top their flags of the 2004 Greek Summer Olympic Games. They were the first Greek exped...

ELIZABETH COWLES PARTRIDGEQuite likely her many friends have quite different memories of Betsy, for she was exuberant in her enjoyment of many things. Mountains were her consuming passion—but only one of several. People really interested her the m...

FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, FAILURE TO TEST HOLD, INADEQUATE PROTECTION—New York, Adirondacks,Wallface Mountain. On August 13, a group of six climbers from Rochester, New York, and three from New York City attempted different routes on ...

The Western Chugach Range, AlaskaJ. Vincent HoemanThe eastern boundary of the Chugach Range has not yet been properly defined, but the western limit is definite, and at this extremity the city of Anchorage flourishes between the arms of Cook Inlet...

FALL ON SNOW – UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONSWyoming, Gannet PeakOn August 10 about 1300, the Sublette County Sheriff’s dispatch center received a call from a party of five on the summit ridge of Gannet Peak (13,804 feet). The party...

NORMAN F. ROHN1919-1989I first teamed up with Norm Rohn during a Sierra Club trip to the Palisades over Labor Day in 1974. We climbed the rib between the two Underhill Couloirs and proceeded to the base of the impressive summit block of Thunderbol...

Asgard, Baffin Island. The Auyuittuq National Park guide states that one could be excused for not wishing to return if the “summers” of 1972 or 1974 had been experienced. Quite naturally then, Les Ellison and I concluded that if the daily 1978 sto...

Raymond David Caughron 1943-2002I first met RD Caughron some 30 years ago, and knew him as a climbing and skiing companion, raconteur, advocate for Yosemite, and leading spirit of the AAC among other roles. But perhaps his greatest role was as a f...

The Sword and Cuerno Norte, Paine Mountains, ChileRichard D. Hoare, Cambridge University Mountaineering ClubON the evening of December 5, 1971 the South African Patagonian Expedition finally arrived at Pudeto, the end of the road, the last house b...

ARTHUR HINTON READ 1922-1961For those of us who have had the opportunity to know and to climb with Arthur Read, the tragic news of his death in an avalanche in Scotland brought shock little less than that his bereaved family suffered. Arthur becam...

Mt. Johnson, East Buttress, Attempt. Flying into the Ruth Glacier, it’s hard not to notice the sweeping expanse of rock that forms the east buttress of Mt. Johnson. A strong team composed of Jim McCarthy, Yvon Chouinard, Henry Barber and several o...

Zwischen Himmel und Hölle by Toni Hiebeier. Frankfurt a/M, Germany: Wilhelm Limpert Verlag, 1965. 261 pages, 32 photographs, one folding out photograph of the Civetta NW-face. DM 24.80.Between Heaven and Hell is the title of Toni Hiebeler’s latest...

The Wine Bottle on Mount DickeyAndreas Orgler, Österreichischer Alpenverein, AustriaLIKE TWO PLANT LICE that the wind has blasted, we crouch in the cold glacier wind below the east face of Mount Dickey in the Ruth Gorge south of Mount McKinley. We...

RICHARD MANNING LEONARD1908-1993Richard Manning Leonard, a member of the American Alpine Club since 1936, was elected to Honorary Membership in 1981. He was born in Elyria, Ohio. He was a former president of both the Sierra Club and the Save-the- ...

Mount Alberta. Mount Alberta is a desolate mountain. The Sunwapta River wards off tourists. Wading across the swift, freezing water at eight A.M. was not a pleasant way to begin the day. However, that discomfort was soon forgotten because of the i...

Direct North Wall of Sentinel Rock, Left Side. On the direct north wall of Sentinel Rock, 600 feet up, a distinctive line of ceilings cuts across the left central part of the face. In June Layton Kor and I climbed a new route which ascends in a di...

Teepe’s Pillar, Northeast Face. On August 24 Royal Robbins and Jane Taylor climbed this route which lies between the direct east-face route of Merriam and the north face route of Chouinard, passing by difficult direct- aid climbing the band of nea...

FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS and LOSS OF CONTROL—VOLUNTARY GLISSADE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—NO ICE AXNew Hampshire, Mount Washington, Tuckerman Ravine TrailOn December 30 there were two separate accidents involving sliding with crampons. In the first inci...

Everest Environmental ExpeditionBob McConnell and Liz NicholON THE NORTHERN FLANK OF EVEREST, popular trekking and climbing areas have been scoured clean by a multi-national expedition, the first targeted solely at cleaning up this side of the wor...