Feature Article AAJ
In the Land of the Inuit, New Routes and Perceptions in Sam Ford Fjord

In the Land of the InuitNew routes and perceptions in Sam Ford Fjordby Mark SynnottFor the past eight hours I had been tinkering with a thin cal- cite seam, using hooks, copperheads and rivets to create passage to the next real crack. The equivale...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Europe, Southern Norway, Stavanger Region, Kjerag, Strandhogg and Pin-up

Kjerag, Strandhogg and Pin-up. On February 12 and 14,I climbed two new ice lines on Kjerag in southwest Norway. Kjerag is close to 1,000m high and rises directly from the Lysefjord. It is Norway’s number one big wall, for rock climbers and BASE ju...


Accident Tables ANAM
Statistical Tables, Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table III

1951-85USA1959-85CAN.1986USA1986CAN.TerrainRock 222828115015Snow 13692323811Ice 1034355River 12300Unknown 16620Ascent or DescentAscent 192528615421Descent 13791994710Unknown 2274110Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock 13991381179Slip on snow o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Inylchek Region, Tien Shan Mountains, Mapping Expedition

Tien Shan Mountains, mapping expedition. In August and September, 13 of us, mostly students from Dresden University of Technology, conducted a mapping expedition to the central Tien Shan Mountains. The objective of this university project (the Ins...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, British Columbia, Ascent of Mt. Robson

Ascent of Mt. Robson. There have been numerous attempts on Mt. Robson since its last ascent in 1939. The difficulties range from the enormous bulk of the 12,972-foot mountain to the ever changing conditions of the upper ice cap. When this party be...


Book Reviews AAJ
Kilimajaro: The White Roof of Africa

Kilimanjaro: The White Roof of Africa. Harald Lange. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1985. 176 pages, 63 pages of color photographs, black and white drawings, photographs and maps, bibliography. $24.95.This book is a major addition to the English-langu...


Club Activities AAJ
Yale Mountaineering Club

Yale Mountaineering Club. During the academic year 1951-52 the Yale Mountaineering Club continued its program of rock climbing instruction at Mt. Carmel and the Shawangunks, and snow and ice climbing trips were made to the White Mountains and Adir...


Book Reviews AAJ
The Sherpa and the Snowman

The Sherpa and the Snowman, by Chas. Stonor, with a foreword by Sir John Hunt. 206 pages, 38 pictures. Hollis & Carter: London, 1955. Price, 18 s.To those serious students of the Himalayan mystery this book may not contain much that is new. Ma...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Central Garhwal, Arwa Spires, First Ascents of North Face and the Central and West SummIts

Arwa Spires, first ascents of north face and the central and west summits. The 6,193m-high granite top of the Arwa Spires was first climbed in 2000 by two Scotsmen, Andy and Pete Benson. They reached the East Summit via the east ridge, but three a...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Party Separated, Probable Thought Process Impairment, Wyoming, Tetons, Grand Teton

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, PARTY SEPARATED, PROBABLE THOUGHT PROCESS IMPAIRMENTWyoming, Tetons, Grand TetonOn September 16 at 1100, Russ Soderlund (40) was climbing the Owen-Spalding route on the Grand Teton with a friend, Gretchen Rupp. Sode...


Feature Article AAJ
On Some of Getrude Bell's Routes in the Oberland

On Some of Gertrude Bell’s Routes in the OberlandMiriam E. O’BrienIN 1901 and 1902 Miss Gertrude Bell and her guides, Heinrich and Ulrich Fuhrer, made a great many remarkable climbs in the Oberland. They were, of course, much more remarkable at th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Batura Muztagh, Dariyo Sar, First Ascent; Pt. 6,250m, First Ascent

Dariyo Sar, first ascent; Pt. 6,250m, first ascent. Unreported from 2005 are the first ascents of two peaks on the Baltar Glacier. After an unsuccessful attempt to reach the northwest spur of Rakaposhi as part of a larger Italian expedition, Renzo...


Feature Article AAJ
Mount Moran, 1922-1962

Mount Moran, 1922-1962Leigh N. OrtenburgerWith sections written by James P. McCarthy, Pete Sinclair, John Hudson, Don Anderson, Fred Beckey and Ted VaillIn the forty years which have now passed since the first ascent of Mount Moran, judged by Fryx...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection, Inadequate Belay, Exceeding Abilities, California, Yosemite Valley, Bishops Terrace

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INADEQUATE RELAY,EXCEEDING ABILITIESCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Bishops TerraceKeith Kramer (22) was planning on climbing Bishops Terrace with a new climbing partner who had little to no experience. Kramer did...


Feature Article AAJ
East Face of Fitz Roy

East Face of Fitz RoyMiguel Angel Gallego, Club Montañero de Murcia, SpainAT THE SOUTHERN tip of the American continent, the moutains of southern Patagonia offer climbers some of the greatest possibilities for adventure in the whole world. In my o...


Book Reviews AAJ
The Wildest Dream: The Biography of George Mallory

The Wildest Dream: The Biography of George Mallory. Peter and Leni Gillman. Seattle: Mountaineers Books, 2000. 329 pages. $27.95.Since the discovery of George Mallory’s body in 1999 high on the flanks of Mt. Everest, a firestorm of media has refue...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India, Himachal Pradesh, Miyar Valley, Point JAMES, East Face; Nazomi Peak, Southeast Face; Triple Crown, Southwest Ridge from the West

Point JAMES, east face; Nazomi Peak, southeast face; Triple Crown, southwest ridge from the west. Natasha Sebire and I spent five weeks in the Miyar during August and September. From the standard base camp below Castle Peak, we concentrated our ef...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table I

Number of Accidents ReportedTotal Number of Persons InvolvedInjuredKilledYearUSA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.USA-CAN.195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942— 256— 231— 019— 2196047— 464— 1237— 81...


Accident Reports ANAM
Hypothermia, Dehydration, Weather, Alaska, Mount McKinley

HYPOTHERMIA, DEHYDRATION, WEATHER Alaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 18,1994, Paul Laeremans (39) and Ingrid Baeyens (38) of the German AMICAL expedition, along with other members of their expedition, began descending the West Buttress route from 14,300...


Feature Article AAJ
Avalanche Fatalities in Himalayan Mountaineering

Avalanche Fatalities in Himalayan MountaineeringDavid M. McClungIntroduction. Avalanches are probably the greatest single cause of fatalities in Himalayan mountaineering and the avalanches as well as the fatal accidents they cause have their own d...