FALLING ROCKSUtah, Big Cottonwood Canyon, Storm MountainOn February 17th, Kris (27) was hit by spontaneous rockfall while practicing solo aid-climbing on Six-appeal, a 5.6 bolted route at the Storm Mountain picnic area in Big Cottonwood Canyon. Th...
WILLIAM ADAMS BROWN 1865-1943As we go to press comes news of the passing of an original member of the club, of whom now only half-a-dozen remain. Less than a month ago, Dr. Brown attended the annual dinner where he was noticed in animated conversa...
Asgard Range, Various Ascents. This past January, I climbed with Thai Verzone in Antarctica’s Asgard Range as part of a SAR training exercise. The trip was very favorable on the work-to-play ratio. Our maps of the area were poor, so we had the hel...
Sangay. Although Sangay (5323 meters, 17,463 feet) was no first ascent, it will be useful to give information for anyone who decides to go there. Jim Velie, my brother Dana and I set off from Quito to Riobamba by bus, where for about $8 we hired a...
Mount Cairnes, Kluane Range. Our ascent of Mount Cairnes (9150 feet), east of Vulcan, was, I gather, not a first ascent, but I have not found out who made the first. On August 31, Martyn Williams, Selmyn Hughes and I made an exploratory climb onto...
Colorado, South Maroon Bell. On 4 July Bruce Markel (18), Laurie Ashley and John Markel were separated from a group climbing the Bells. In crossing a snow couloir with Bruce in the lead, Bruce slipped and fell. He slid about 500 feet on snow and t...
Pigeon Spire, East Face, Bugaboos. Although a threatening overcast obscured the sun on the cold morning of August 16, I joined Layton Kor, who had been considering this route for several years, and together we climbed rapidly to the lower left cor...
Mt. Erydag, Northwest Face. A team of the Dagestan Republic Rescue Service, led by V. Sogokon and comprising A. Goriaev and U. Slobodeniuk, climbed the right side of the northwest face of Mt. Erydag (3925m) via the 1982 Mikhalov route (6A) from Se...
Yulong Shan. Phil Peralta-Ramos, John Warfield, Marty Gollery and I as leader and five trekkers headed for China’s Yunnan province in April. We threaded through pony carts, rotor-tiller machines, bicycles and honey wagons for two days from Kunming...
Tarke Kang. A German expedition led by Adi Welsch failed to climb Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome; 7193 meters, 23,599 feet) by its south ridge. They reached 5400 meters on October 18 and 21.Elizabeth Hawley
Yerupajá Sur, 1974. Spaniards Alfonso Arias, Miguel and Luis López, Eduardo Barroso, André Fernández, Emilio Torrico and Emilio García climbed Yerupajá Sur in late July, 1974.
Devban, second ascent? An Indo-Tibet Border Police Expedition led by Y.S. Sandhu made what was probably the first ascent of this 6,852m peak south east of Kamet since Frank Smythe climbed it in 1937, although in the meantime several false claims h...
Bhagirathi II. A Spanish expedition of eight was led by Conrad López. On June 12, López, Josep Lluis Sasot and Angel Casals reached the summit.Harish Kapadia, Himalayan Club
Dharamsura or White Sail, Lahoul. Karamjit Butalia and Parash Moni Das climbed this 21,148-foot peak in June. They were members of an expedition from the Hiking Club, St. Stephens College, Delhi, led by Ashok Bamzai.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
Pumori Attempt. Hall Wendel, two Sherpas Indra and Nuru and I made an unsuccessful attempt to climb Pumori by the southeast face to the east ridge. We arrived at Base Camp on April 3 and the next day began fixing ropes toward Camp I. We establishe...
ICHIRO YOSHIZAWA 1903-1998Ichiro Yoshizawa, a member of The American Alpine Club and one of Japan’s most distinguished mountaineers and mountain scholars, died at the age of 95 in September. Mr. Yoshizawa led the first Japanese expedition to the A...
FALLING ROCK – ROCK CAME LOOSE, FALL ON ROCKWashington, North Cascades – Pickett Range, Mount TerrorSteph Abegg’s Narrative: The Picket Range is one of the most nigged areas of the North Cascades. Although the difficulty of the climbing is often m...
Mountaineering Dogs. In canine connotation, the St. Bernard, a small cask suspended from his neck, busily digging a bewildered traveller from the snow, is generally thought of when Alpine dogs are mentioned. Most of us recall childhood stories of ...
Pyramid Peak, North Face, First Winter Ascent. In early February, Lou Dawson, Michael Pokress and I made the first winter ascent of the north face of Pyramid. A previous attempt had been stopped by bad weather and high avalanche danger, but during...
Mount Harrison Smith, North Pillar. It was reported that Germans Kurt Albert, Stefan Glowacz, Gerd Heidorn and Leo Reitzner free climbed a 700-meter new route on Mount Harrison Smith, Fitzcarraldo (5.12b). The team took two weeks to bushwack its w...