Pumori, west face, new route. A five-man expedition comprising four Swiss and one American split into two groups with three of the team attempting the south ridge and the other two, Swiss guides, Ueli Bühler and Ueli Steck, opting for the west fac...
Uli Biaho Tower, South Buttress, 1989. In late May of 1989, Nick Craddock, Paul Rogers, Murray Judge and I arrived at Base Camp at the confluence of the Trango and Baltoro Glaciers. We were to attempt the southeast face of the Uli Biaho Tower, usi...
RAPPEL FAILURE—INADEQUATE ANCHOR SETUP, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTAlberta, Lake Louise, Rack of the Lake CragOn October 6, a climber was being lowered by her partner in order to retrieve her protection slings after leading the route “Top Gun” (5.7). Aft...
Gaugiri, second and third ascents by a new route. The 6,110m Gaugiri in upper Mustang, first ascended in 2002 via the southwest ridge by Peter Ackroyd and Jim Frush, as noted above, received second and third ascents in 2003. On September 8, Josep ...
Mt. Shand. The peak which rises to about 13,000 ft. ten miles S.E. of Mt. Hayes in the Alaska Range has been officially named Mt. Shand by the Board on Geographic Names. Temporarily called Mt. Bagley, the peak was climbed on 12 August 1941 by the ...
Wyoming Rockies Teton RangeAlthough the 1937 climbing season in the Tetons was shorter than usual (June 24th-September 17th), a large number of mountaineers visited the region, concentrating upon Grand Teton and Mt. Owen. Six of the eight establis...
Ama Dablam Attempt. An expedition of four Austrians and two Germans was under the leadership of Günther Kerber. They reached a highpoint of 6100 meters on the normal southwest ridge on April 19.Elizabeth Hawley
Shafat Fortress, Colorado Route. From August 8 to 12 Jonny Copp and Micah Dash made the first ascent of the Shafat Fortress (ca 19,500'), via the east face. The 21-pitch Colorado Route is 1,000m, VI 5.11 M6 C1, and merits a feature article in this...
lliniza Sur, La Araña. On September 4, Joe Deck and Larry Goolsby of Bellingham, Washington, ascended lliniza Sur (5266 m) via a new route on the west face. The first part of the ascent involves a glacier traverse from the Refugio Nuevo Horizontes...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, SNOW CONDITIONS—NÉVÉOregon, Mount Hood, Cooper SpurOn September 6, Mark Fraas (40) fell 1500 feet down the Cooper Spur after losing his footing.AnalysisThere have been at least 13 fatalities on the Cooper Spur. All ...
Basket Dome. In September 1982 Doug Scott and I did a largely new route on this dome, which sits on the rim facing Half Dome. We began in the jumble of dihedrals at the spur of the southeast side, followed the giant comer known as Straight Jacket ...
Alaska, Mt. McKinley. On May 11, John D. Graham (65) and his party approached the summit of Mount McKinley. The wind was from the southwest at their back. With his all-down outfit, he did not realize it was 40 below zero. Felix Julen came towards ...
HYPOTHERMIA, PARTY SEPARATED, BAD WEATHERColorado, Mt. AliceA party of eight experienced mountaineers departed Grand Lake on March 7, 1980, and skied to Lone Pine Lake where they spent the night in snow caves. The next morning, all eight persons s...
Dhaulagiri I, Solo Ascent. The Dutch climber Bart Vos reported he reached the top of the seventh highest mountain in the world, Dhaulagiri I, alone on October 17, the first Dutch mountaineer ever to gain this 8167-meter summit. He had chosen to as...
Chimney Rock, First Winter Ascent. The first week of winter found the Cascades under the influence of steady high pressure. Feeling the need to complete unfinished business, Pat McNerthney and I again headed for Chimney Rock, this year with Greg C...
New Hampshire, White Mountains, Mt. Adams. On 30 December Charles Button and Owen Ferrini and 8 others climbed Mt. Adams in -25 to -30°F weather and 30-70 mph winds. On their return as they faced into the wind Button and Ferrini suffered severe f...
North Face of the Saskatchewan Mountain Massif, The Silver Lining. On April 5, Barry Blanchard, Steve House and I left the Big Bend parking lot on the Icefields Parkway and skied several kilometers toward the toe of the Saskatchewan Glacier. Our o...
Northern Rockies Section. In September, Doug Colwell, after close to 10 years as Section chair, passed the baton to Brian Cabe. Much thanks to Doug for his past and continued service to the Club.Zone II of Castle Rocks State Park opened to new rou...
Denali National Park and Preserve, summary. Our staff responded to 18 major incidents this year, including frostbite, altitude illness, trauma, and cardiac illness. In an unusual turn of events, two clients from separate guided groups experienced ...
Baruntse Attempt. A ten-person French expedition failed to climb Baruntse. After establishing two high camps, the leader Robert Maudin, his wife Marie- Claire and Pierre Robin reached a high point of 20,675 feet on October 11. The climb was abando...