Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascades, Double Peak, East Face

Double Peak, East Face. On June 29, Mark Ronca and I made the first ascent of this sheer face on the northeast summit of Double Peak (6,199') in Mt. Rainier National Park. The six-pitch climb followed an obvious crack system on the left side of th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Yosemite Valley, Middle Cathedral Rock, North East-Buttress Route

Middle Cathedral Rock, North East-Buttress Route. Late in July Frank Sacherer and I climbed the east buttress of Middle Cathedral Rock by a new route. This route starts to the west of the east buttress route established by Harding in 1954, and asc...


Book Reviews AAJ
Mountains

Mountains, by Carroll Lane, and Mildred Adams, Fenton. 8 vo., 160 pages including 34 devoted to photographs (2 in color) and 29 to drawings. New York: Doubleday Doran and Co., Inc., 1942.The text of this book is obviously addressed to quite youthf...


Accident Reports ANAM
Oregon Coast Range, Near Bandon

Oregon, Coast Range, near Bandon—On Sunday 16 November, Ronald D. Martin (15) and Gene Lloyd Davison (15) attempted to climb a 200 foot sea cliff above a beach where they had been looking for agates. Apparently a large rock became dislodged, hit M...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Contiguous United States, California, Kings Canyon National Park, North Dome, My Own Private Idaho

North Dome, My Own Private Idaho. During June 21-23, Matt and Jennifer Pollard and I established a line on North Dome in the unexplored territory between Freak Show and North to the Bone. My Own Private Idaho (V 5.10 A2) uses the big right-facing ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall, Climbing Unroped, Failure to Test Holds – Colorado, Quandry Mountain

FALL, CLIMBING UNROPED, FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS—Colorado, Quandry Mountain. Donald Gordon (21), Michael Bearzi (24), and William Trull (22) were climbing on the north face of Quandry Mountain on May 29. They started from McCullough Gulch at 8:30 a.m...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Southwestern China, Kok Sel, Xinjiang

Kok Sel, Xinjiang. A 17-member Japanese expedition led by Eiji Kamei climbed for the first time a 6705-meter (21,998-foot) peak in the Kongur group, which they called Kok Sel. After establishing Base Camp at 4600 meters on August 1, they placed th...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Foraker, Sultana Ridge

Robert Gerhard, Ranger, Mount McKinley National ParkMount Foraker, Sultana Ridge. Roger Cowles, Brian Okonek and I made the second winter ascent of Foraker on March 15 by a route which had been unsuccessfully tried eight times. Eight-and-a-half mi...


Accident Reports ANAM
Pulmonary Edema, Yukon Territory, St. Elias Mountains, Mt. Logan, East Ridge

PULMONARY EDEMAYukon Territory, St. Elias Mountains, Mt. Logan, East RidgeDavid Isles, David Wood, Rob Banfield, and Barry Hagen started climbing the east ridge of Mt. Logan on 6 June 1978 and had reached 5,050 meters on 11 June. Isles was moving ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Annapurna II, III and IV Attempts

Annapurna II, III and IV Attempts. It was reported that a three-member Serbian expedition led by Slobodan Gejo attempted Annapurna II via the Standard Route, which begins up the northwest ridge of Annapurna IV. They reached 6483 meters on Annapurn...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru—Cordillera Huayhuash, Rasac, East Face

Rasac, East Face. Michèle Besinge, Yves Astier and James Mérel climbed the east face of Rasac in July, 1976. The climb was repeated twice in 1977 by French and Germans (A.A.J., 1978 pp. 571-2.) This route was repeated in 1978 by several French cli...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Quebec, Torngat Mountains, Mt. d'Iberville/Mt. Caubvick, Ascent

Mt. d’Iberville/Mt. Caubvick, Ascent. On August 14, Tom Bennett, Hope Bennett, Tony Daffern and I made an ascent of the Koroc Ridge (south ridge) of Mt. d’Iberville from a small unnamed lake at the foot of the ridge. This is possibly a new route, ...


Club Activities AAJ
A.A.C., Southern California Section

A.A.C., Southern California Section. During 1964 the section completed its first year with a membership of 40. Three meetings were held, and one lecture was sponsored. Section members were active on Mount McKinley and in the Peruvian Andes. In Oct...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Tetons, Mount Wister, Direct North Face

Mount Wister, Direct North Face. A beautifully direct route up the steep slabs of the north face of Mount Wister was pioneered on July 27 by Layton Kor and Gary Cole. After starting to the right of the initial chimney used by the 1952 northwest ch...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Southern Purcell Mountains

Southern Purcell Mountains. From a camp at about 7300 feet on the stream draining southeast from Mount Dorothy into Horsethief Creek, Rich Gnagy and I made the first ascent of the unnamed 10,320-foot peak located one mile north of Mount Dorothy an...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chilean-Argentinian Patagonia, El Tronador and Catedral Group, New Routes above Bariloche

El Tronador and Catedral Group, New Routes above Bariloche. During January a climbing instruction and certification course was carried out on the Argentine-Chilean frontier. The course, organized by the Argentine Federatión de Ski y Andinismo, was...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, South Chasm View Wall, Goldberg Special, Shadowboxing

South Chasm View Wall, Goldberg Special, Shadowboxing. During two days in October Heidi Wirtz and I free climbed the lower part of the Goldberg Special on South Chasm View Wall, joining Astrodog for the upper pitches. The crux A3 aid pitch went fr...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Isla Santa Inés, Patagonia

Isla Santa Inés, Patagonia. Peter Mortensen, Hector Vittone, Hermann Joos and I got together in Punta Arenas on January 26. We spent a fruitless week trying to get a boat to take us to the island, then buying gasoline, taking things out of customs...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California–Sierra Nevada, Mount Russell, New Route

Mount Russell, New Route. On the south side of Mount Russell, to the right of the ridge which defines the Sierra crest, are two prominent arêtes. The left arête is a previously unreported eight-pitch 5.8 climb, first ascent unknown. In July, Claud...


Accident Reports ANAM
Loss of Control, Voluntary Glissade, Washington, Pinnacle Peak Basin

LOSS OF CONTROL, VOLUNTARY GLISSADEWashington, Pinnacle Peak BasinAround 11:00 a.m. on Sunday, July 12, an unidentified member of a Seattle Mountaineers party of 120 persons came to the Paradise First Aid office and stated that a member of their p...