North Carolina, Table Rock. On December 3rd Steve Longenecker (age 33) and Robert Watts (27) were doing a short rock climb at Table Rock. Longenecker customarily climbed in a seat harness made of one-inch nylon webbing. Having forgotten his own, h...
Makalu, South Face. The sixth Yugoslav Himalayan Expedition left Dharan on August 19 and traveled through Dhankuta, Hile, Tumlingther, Khandberi, Sedus, the Kiki La to reach Base Camp at 16,250 feet on September 5. Camp I was pitched on the 7th at...
East Face of Longs Peak. Larry Dalke, Wayne Goss and I climbed a new route on the Diamond of Longs Peak, the "Diamond-7” route. We followed a fairly straight crack system to the left of the four previously climbed Diamond routes. With the exceptio...
Aconcagua, Polish Route Variant. A Spanish group from Aragon opened on January 18 a variant to the 1934 Polish Route. This new variant follows the original Polish Route to 5900 meters, then shifts to the right edge of the Glaciar de los Polacos (n...
Cerro Autana. In early November Jim Donini, Mike Graber, Beverly Johnson, and I established a new route on Cerro Autana deep in the Venezuelan jungle. We were accompanied by an ABC TV film crew of Mike Hoover, Peter Pilafian and Don Burgess. The e...
Grand Teton, North Face of the Enclosure, High Route. This major new route was first climbed on August 8, 1977 by Charlie Fowler and Steve Glenn. This climb begins near the bottom of the northwest ice couloir of the Enclosure, the same location as...
Soral Este, Southwest Face. On July 24, Fred Bahnson, Baker Perry and I climbed the southwest face of Soral Este to its lower, southeast summit (5460m). Our approach was made up through the moraine just southeast of the obvious rock pinnacle that ...
Cho Oyu, South Face Attempt. Our expedition intended to climb the south face of Cho Oyu (8153 meters, 26,750 feet) which had first been climbed by Koblmüller’s party in 1978. We had four members, the Austrians Wolfgang Nairz, leader, Rudi Mayr and...
Koh-i-Mondi and Koh-i-Jumi. The Ohita Hindu Kush Expedition was led by Makoto Yano and consisted of Makoto Nishi, Hidenori Umeki, Kazuki Mimeno, Hidehiko Kato and Yukio Eto. They climbed in the mountains above Tilli in the Munjan valley. Camp I wa...
Malana Glacier, Hindu Raj. An expedition from Bregenz, Austria was led by Heinz Koors. They approached the Malana Glacier, above which they climbed two 5000-meter peaks from Swat via the Kachhikhani Pass. They returned over the Thalo Pass.
Sullivan Peak. 1940 first ascent by C. Beattie, Miss H. Bosworth, Miss G. Tillinghast and others. From A. C. C. camp one mile below head of Glacier River. Route leads N. up a steep gully opposite camp, then N.E. from the head of the gully over sno...
Dragontail Peak, Chasiri Tail. On July 24, Adam Lawson and I picked our way through eight new pitches (two were long simul blocks) on Dragontail’s northeast wall. Well right of Dragonfly, our route climbs a line of scary choss through a steep swat...
Il Nevado de los Leones was ascended for the first time by Gabriele Baccalatte and Piero Zanetti on March 3rd, 1934.
Mount Bryce, North Face. Bryce is a well known three-summited peak lying southwest of the Columbia Icefields. The west peak is highest at 11,500 feet. At the foot of its north face Bryce Creek flows at only 4000 feet. Thus the north face of Bryce ...
STRANDED BY WEATHER-INADEQUATE GEAR, FOOD, AND STRATEGY California, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanJust before midnight on October 16, a cold front brought heavy rain to Yosemite Valley. Several climbing parties managed to retreat from big wall routes...
P 20,700 and P 21,750, near Kongur. I led twelve schoolboys on a mountaineering expedition to the very west of China, also accompanied by six recently left “Old Boys” of the school and one woman, Fiona Blake. Base Camp was established at 13,000 fe...
Mount Powell, East Face. Intending to climb the original route on the east face of Mount Powell, on August 28 I told my brother Glenn the first pitch was 5.8 and the rest easier. After two pitches of solid 5.8, it was obvious we were lost. I heade...
Kang Guru Attempt. Englishmen Michael Chapman and Nick Seely were attempting to climb Kang Guru via the west face to the northwest ridge. They reached a high point of 20,350 feet on April 24. They were moving up to the 21,000-foot site of their si...
Cathedral Peak, Southwest Ridge. During August a large Commonwealth team consisting of Howie Richardson, Robin Mounsey, Bob Cuthbert, Bruce McPherson and myself made the first ascent of the southwest ridge integrale of this granitic peak. Steep, e...
Meru North Tragedy. In the post-monsoon season, a three-man Japanese expedition led by Sohei Suzuki had a tragic end to their second attempt on Meru North. They had chosen a line of mixed snow and rock to the left of the original route on the nort...