When my 2009 expedition plans fell through due to partner injury, I scrambled to salvage the season and found a partner in fellow Fairbanks climber Matt Klick. At home in Fairbanks we waited two days to fly in to a gravel strip at the base of the ...
Shah Fladi and Mir Samir. A reconnaissance party, Yasushi Yomota and Kazuyoshi Matsukura, of the Alpine Club of Tohoku Gakuin University tried Shah Fladi (16,875 feet) from April 15 to May 3 and Mir Samir (19,059 feet) from May 10 to 26 but failed...
Shupel Zom, Hindu Raj. Ken Kariyama and Huroaki Seki of Chiba University of Technology climbed in the area south of Buni Zom. On August 1 they climbed Shupel Zom (19,433 feet) and on August 5, P 5265 (17,273 feet).ICHIRO Yoshizawa, A. A.C. and Jap...
Forbes-Lyell Group. In July, 1940, a forest fire unfortunately destroyed the bridge across the N. fork of the Saskatchewan and much of the trail leading from mile 53 on the motor road to Glacier Lake. The best route now is still the old one, follo...
Colchuck Peak, northeast face, Hilden-Holsten. In late January 2011 Jens Holsten and I climbed a new route on the northeast face of Colchuck Peak to the right of the Northeast Couloir during an uncommonly long period of high pressure. Two fun pitc...
Cerro Cuerno (18,216 ft.). On February 25th. 1934, this summit was reached by P. and S. Ceresa, Chabod, Ghiglione, Frederico Strasser and Pasten by a route up the east ridge from the Horcones Glacier.
Mount Andromeda, Columbia Icefields. David Hambre, urged by George Lowe, suggested something yet undone in the Columbia Icefields. Early on the morning of August 26 we three set off for the north cirque on the west side of Mount Andromeda. Just le...
Paine Group and Dickson Glacier. The Mountaineering Association of Nagano Prefecture was divided into a Paine party of Akira Miyashita, Yoshinori Adachi, Tatsunda Matsuzawa, Kazuo Shirokura and Yoshimichi Kohata and a Dickson Glacier party of Yosh...
FALL ON ROCKTexas, Enchanted Rock State Natural AreaOn November 30, 1985, Scott Hall (22) was leading Eat, a single pitch 5.9+ route on the Buzzard’s Roost formation at Enchanted Rock when he fell at the crux, located approximately one and a half ...
STRANDED–INEXPERIENCECalifornia, Yosemite National Park, Tuolumne Meadows, Tenaya PeakOn September 26, Marvin and Mary Kilgo (both 42) became stranded about three or four pitches from the top of Tenaya Peak. They requested help. Another climbing p...
Kongur Attempt, Xinjiang. The first American expedition to Kongur (7719 meters, 25,325 feet) arrived at Base Camp on July 20. The climbing party consisted of Gil Anderson, Rob Leitz, Art Porter, Andy Shidner, Ed Stachon and me as leader. Our goal ...
Two Climbs in the Southern Palisades, 1989. In late September and early October, 1989, Ron Cappasso and I did two new routes, both III, 5.9. The first was a striking pinnacle due south of Brainard Lake. The crux was an icy off-width ceiling lead. ...
Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park. At noon on 12 September a ranger climbing party was having lunch at Anvil Rock when a lone climber wearing a dark parka was observed some distance away rapidly ascending the Muir Snowfield toward Camp Muir. O...
This 6,029m volcano, in Salta, Argentina, was first ascended by pre-Columbian Indians. Hans-Martin Schmitt from Germany and Adrian Germishuizen from South Africa climbed it on May 20, opening a new route on the northeast face for the fifth moder...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT,INEXPERIENCE, EXCEEDED ABILITIES, NO HARD HAT California, Mount WhitneyOn June 27, 1987, Ron Robinson (32) and Rick Maschek (35) were on the third pitch of Mount Whitney’s East Buttress Route (Class 5). Maschek ...
Himlung, Winter Attempt. A Japanese expedition led by Iwao Maeda in the winter season of 1984-5 failed to get to the east ridge of Himlung and gave up at 6300 meters.Elizabeth Hawley
Castle Peak, North Face. Castle Peak is located in the Pasayten Wilderness just northeast of Mount Hozomeen. The peak is a scramble on three sides, but its broad north face has route possibilities of 1000 feet on solid, blankish granite. In Septem...
SNOW BRIDGE COLLAPSE, FALL INTO BERGSCHRUND, UNROPED,NO HARD HATBritish Columbia, Coast Mountains, Mount TantalusOn the morning of August 5, 1989, 18 members of the North Shore Rescue Team were beginning a three-day training exercise in the Mount ...
Weisses Heiligtum, by Keiichi Yamada, Tokyo, author and publisher, 1966. 64 pages of full page black and white photographs, 9 pages of appendix—in Japanese, titles and subtitles translated into German. The book is divided into two parts of about e...
Our light-weight Indo-Swedish expedition was composed of Swedes Ake Nilsson and Birger Andren and Indians Charu Sharma, Dr. Tejvir Singh Khurana and me. Andren had to leave shortly after reaching Base Camp due to high blood pressure. Base Camp was...