Colorado, Boulder Canyon, Castle Rock. On July 6 Robert Sayre (49) and two young companions were attempting a route called Cussin’ Crack (a fifth class deceptive dihedral with smooth walls) on a warm, sunny, windless day. Sayre led up the crack an...
The Rock Anchor (Bolt) Set. Increasing numbers of rock climbers, with and without a fancy for technical undertakings, have begun to add the rock anchor set to their supplies of hardware.2 The equipment was originally developed for purposes of dire...
The Sergeant, Purcells. The icefalls into the Lake of the Hanging Glaciers are so spectacular and challenging that no one had touched them. Blessed by favorable weather, Arnold Wexler, Morgan Broman and I went up the most easterly of these icefall...
Bonanza Peak, three-summit traverse. On August 21 and 22 Kurt Buch- wald, Peter Avolio, and I completed the first ridge traverse (V 5.7/5.8) of all three summits of Bonanza Peak. The route involves an approach via the Mary Green Glacier, climbing ...
Alpine Panoramas and PeepshowsJ. Monroe ThoringtonTOWARD the end of the eighteenth century there arose in many European cities and towns the urge to make, exhibit and view models of the Alps, for the dual purpose of refreshing the traveller’s mind...
Mount Everest, German-French Expedition. The German portion of my German-French Everest expedition was composed of 16 people. The main group took off from Munich on August 8, a week after Pierre Mazeaud and his French group of 14. To help the Fren...
Exploring the Olympic Peninsula by Ruth Kirk. Seattle: University Press, 1964. 120 pages, illustrations. Paperback, $1.95. Ruth Kirk and her husband are both outdoor enthusiasts, outstanding outdoor photographers, and spend much of their free...
A Survey of American Ascents in the Alps in the Nineteenth CenturyIntroductionANY attempt to present the development of American mountaineering in the Alps must, of very necessity, be fragmentary. Records were inadequately kept, and much material ...
AconcaguaCarles Capellas and Josep Paytubi, Servei General d’Informació de MuntanyaThe idea of a new map of Aconcagua was partly inspired as a continuation of the Cuadernos de Alpinismo (“Mountaineering Notebooks”)* and partly because of the diffi...
Ascents in the Selkirk Range. A number of seldom-climbed peaks in the Selkirks were ascended by a geological field party under the leadership of J. O. Wheeler, and including David Norris from McMaster University and John Ricker, Hugh Naylor, Oz Se...
Washington, summary of activity. 2007 was not particularly rainy, but the Cascades never saw the usual settled periods in late winter or the typical eight or more weeks of summer sunshine. Even worse, dry weather invariably seemed to come midweek,...
Mt. Barille, East Face, Orgler-Bonapace, probable third ascent. On June 21 Ken Sauls and I flew into the Ruth, where we made a second ascent of the 1988 Orgler-Bonapace East Face route on Mt. Barille. Just gaining the rock was tricky, involving a ...
False Dawn—ForakerJohn Phelan, Whizzo ClimbersTHE MYRIAD REASONS and justifications for alpine climbing are as personal as the sweaty palms of the practitioner’s, but disappointment and despair were new to me as a driving force of alpinism. As we ...
Fairshare Tower, The Corkscrew. A second route on the south side of this tower was made on July 25 by Steve Wunsch and Diana Hunter. The narrow, high-angle arête to the left of the steep couloir which divides the south face of Fairshare Tower was ...
Chianti Spire, East Face. On September 8, John Culberson, Shaun Kelley and I climbed a route on Chianti Spire that begins directly below the summit. The climb follows a long left-leaning ramp up into a left-facing comer and an off-width crack. Thr...
Pointer Peak, East Buttress. Pointer Peak, the Matterhorn of the White - mantle Range southeast of Mount Waddington, had only been climbed once, that being a solo undertaking by John Clarke in the 1970s. Although under 8000 feet, the peak makes an...
Phoenix, Wallflowers to near summit. On June 30 a tiny Hughes 500 helicopter dropped Amelia Patterson and me at the base of a stunning 2,500' granite face known as the Phoenix. It is the largest feature in the Vampire Spires group of the Ragged Ra...
HAPEWashington, Mount Rainier, Fuhrer's FingerTim Hartman contacted Mount Rainier National Park at 7:08 a.m. on August 12 to report that his partner Neil Shriner (41) was very ill. Shriner’s symptoms included difficulty breathing, gurgling lung so...
The Big Walls, by Reinhold Messner, Translated by Audrey Salkeld. New York: Oxford University Press, 1978. 144 pages. Price $19.95.The immediate impression is good. Here is a handsome book about some of the most interesting climbs on record, and a...
Kara-Su andAk-Su Valleys, Various Ascents. (The following account is a combination of three individual notes by Doug Byerly, Stephanie Davis*, and Patience Gribble*.) Jimmy Surette and I arrived at the Kara-Su fork of the Karavshin Valley in the P...