In AAJ 2014 we published a panorama looking from Syao Kang toward the Kangchenjunga massif, on which was marked the peak Nupchu (6,044m). While this correctly identifies the peak marked as "Nupchu" on the HMG-Finn map, it is not the peak climbed i...
Kenshi Imai, Kimihiro Miyagi, and Kenro Nakajima hoped to climb K6 West from the north (the same line climbed successfully by Raphael Slawinski and Ian Welsted at the end of July). Leaving base camp at 4,300m on July 4, the three Japanese made an ...
Uzun Brakk (formerly known as Conway’s Ogre) is a prominent mountain on the true left (north) bank of the Biafo Glacier. In 2009 we admired it from the foresummit of Lukpilla Brakk, but there was a lot of snow that year and we did not find the cou...
Paulo Roxo and I had not previously visited the Nangma Valley, and had no clear objective in mind. During research of this area we found neither information nor photos on the innermost parts of the valley, so our expectations were high.We made an ...
Prior to their ascent of Uli Biaho Tower (see report above), Luca Schiera and Silvan Schüpbach made the first ascent of a smaller rock tower above the lower Trango Glacier, which they dubbed Submarine Peak.This tower forms the first point on the l...
One year after our first expedition to the beautiful Solu Glacier (see AAJ 2013), Gaby Lappe, Clemens Pischel, and I returned with a load of big-wall equipment to the village of Bisil and pastures of Pakora. Once more, it was not only a climbing t...
Our all-Pakistan expedition to the Fourth Koksil Glacier took place from August 17–28 and comprised Kamal Haider, Sa'ad Mohamed, Ahmed Mujtaba, Syed Jawad Tashfeen, and me from Islamabad, and Arif Baig and Mohammad Yahya from Shimshal. Koksil Sar ...
After withdrawing from the Diamir Face of Nanga Parbat, following the terrorist attack, my next expedition was to the Ghidims Valley with Polish friend Anita Parys.After crossing Boesam Pass, Anita and I, along with locals Ilyas and Bulbul, reache...
In August-September 2012, Frank Gasser (Italy), Detlef Seelig (Germany), and Birgit Walk (Austria) visited the Ghidims Valley. The first people to reach the start of this valley, at a place called Mandi Kushlak, were Henry Montagnier and Captain C...
In June the international team of Olov Isaksson (Sweden), Anton Karnoup (Russia/U.S.), Jesse Mease (U.S.), and I (as leader) trekked to the Choktoi Glacier. Having been denied permission to enter the Chinese Karakoram, and denied official registra...
Ludvik Golob, Tomaz Goslar, Mojca Svajger, and I planned to acclimatize in the Aling Valley, then cross 5,620m Gondokhoro La and make an alpine-style ascent of Gasherbrum I. We climbed in the Aling from July 17–31, then descended to Hushe, where w...
Malika Parbat (5,290m) is the highest peak in the Kaghan Valley, an area considered save for both local and foreign tourists. The highest (south) summit was probably first climbed by British Army officers Willoughby and Price in 1940 and again, vi...
In June, Kevin Volkening and I established a new route in the Sunlight Creek tributary to the Clarks Fork, a relatively remote climbing area just outside of Yellowstone in Wyoming. After months of Kevin telling me how awesome and full of potential...
There are many impressive walls in East Rosebud Canyon, but few are as proud and spectacular looking as the Doublets. The Upper Doublet is a monster at approximately 2,000’, perched high on the west side of the canyon; the Lower Doublet, at 1,500’...
In August, Patrick Kingsbury, Patrick Odenbeck, and I set off into the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness, returning to a wall I first saw in 2009. This remote wall is located above Lake Pisce, in a high cirque north of the Two Sisters and slightly det...
Over three trips in March and April 2013, Jeremy Aslaksen and I established a new route on the north face of the Kingfisher, between the climbs Dead Again and Hazing. We had spied the line on a rest day the prior year when we established Beak to t...
In winter 2014, Jim Beyer soloed two new routes in the Fisher Towers. He reported that he did not place any heads on the climbs, a technique for which he has been criticized on some of his other Fisher Towers routes (AAJ 2013).In January, Beyer cl...
In October 2012, Mary Harlan and I began work on some new routes on the northwest corner of the Bridger Jack butte in Indian Creek, just outside of Canyonlands. The routes are just around the buttress as you hike toward the climb Rimshot. I return...
Until 2011 very little development had occurred on the steeper rock faces in central Idaho’s Lost River Range. But now that the door has been opened, several very fine routes have been established. These are big limestone and dolomite walls, 1,500...
I HAD BEEN searching for this rock for roughly 20 years, having first heard of it from a wilderness outfitter, who said it was somewhere in the southern Bitterroot Wilderness and was one of the biggest walls in the range. My searching brought abou...