In November and December, Oriol Baró (Spain) and partners climbed five new routes on five different peaks in the Central Andes. The peaks were Cerro Yeguas Heladas, Cerro Morado, Cerro San Francisco, Cerro Yeguas Muertas, and Gemelo Este, and the ...
At the end of April, Pablo Miranda and I left Santiago with the idea of finishing a project on Cerro Morado (4,647m). We hoped to ascend the unclimbed northeast ridge on this beautiful mountain’s principal summit.[Editor’s note: Cerro Morado is a ...
On August 9, Silvano Arrigoni and I climbed a new route on the icy northeast face of Jirishanca Chico, reaching a sub-summit on its west shoulder. Our route Via Dei Ragni (400m, D+ 90°) climbs the right margin of this face and is mostly 65–70° wit...
From November 17–25, Israel Pérez (Mexico), Georg Pollinger (Germany), and I climbed a new route on the right side of Piedra Bolada, ascending its southwest face. Our route is a few hundred feet left of the Piedra Volada waterfall and well to the ...
In January 2015, Billy Brown, José Ramón Torre Zea, Alfredo Zubillaga, and I climbed a new route on the right side of the Acopán Tepui. This part of the wall is approximately 2,000’ tall. Our first trip up the wall—using a mix of free and aid—took...
On August 17, I joined Ines Papert (Germany) and Mayan Smith-Gobat (New Zealand) for a lightning-fast, four-day trip to Mt. Waddington (4,018m). I’d been to the Wadd before to scout locations for a feature film with some Hollywood types, but climb...
After a multi-year absence from Alaska, I spent some time considering what makes me enjoy the climbing and environment of the south-central part of the state. While the rock quality of most areas leaves much to be desired, there are other redeemin...
There would be no sleeping. The wind moaned a slow, agonizing cry among the summits and the lenticular clouds. My partner, Tad McCrea, was also awake, and we just lay in our base camp tent, listening in silent fear. Despite our snow walls, the win...
This expedition had its beginnings in 2013, when I completed a 21-day snowboarding and climbing trip in the Tordrillo Mountains. During an initial recon flight and subsequent ground travel in this range, I became increasingly aware of its alpine r...
On July 6—coincidentally our second wedding anniversary—we departed Seattle to fulfill a long-sought dream of climbing in the remote Arrigetch Peaks. Two days later, Brooks Range Aviation set us down at Circle Lake under a heavy gale, with 230 pou...
On October 14, Steffen Krug and I returned to the beautiful limestone area of Taghia Gorge. The year before, we were very unlucky and got stuck in extremely bad weather for three weeks, with heavy rain, snow, and even ice—very unusual in this area...
On October 25 a climber (female, 28) took a short leader fall near the top of Mint Jam (5.8) at the Overlook. All the gear held, and the belayer acted correctly. As is the case for many climbs at the Overlook, the leader was in a dangerous place t...
On May 17, Pacifico Machaca and I climbed a 200m, six-pitch route on the south face of the most prominent granite buttress of the Khala Cruz group (west of the 5,200m highest summit). We believe this is the same buttress mentioned in AAJ 1982, as ...
Fu-Man-Chu on the tallest granite tower of the north ridge of Jati Khollu. On August 30, Juan Gabriel Estellano (Bolivian), Lilén Sosa (Argentinian), and I established a new route on the tallest granite tower of the no...
On May 29, Pacifico Machaca (Bolivia) and I climbed what we think is a new line on the southwest face of the Pico Milluni ridgeline. After a two-hour approach, which at the end involved crossing a nasty boulderfield and then heading up a 50° snow ...
On October 6, José Callisaya (Bolivian), Robert Rauch (German, resident in La Paz), and I climbed a new route on the southwest face of Serkhe Khollu (5,546m). Reaching the foot of this wall required one and a half hour's drive from La Paz, an easy...
The prolific alpinist Tunç Fındık has climbed many new routes in Turkey’s mountains in recent years. In 2015 he completed about a dozen long new routes, with various partners, ranging from 100m to 600m. These are found mostly in the Ala Dağlar mou...
Leon Russell “Pete” Sinclair was born on August 25, 1935, in Boston and passed away due to complications of Alzheimer’s disease in Olympia, Washington, on November 28, 2015. He is survived by Connie, his wife of 52 years, daughters Melanie and Sum...
On July 4, 2014, almost two months before a Singapore University team made the first ascent of Mt. SUTD (6,056m, AAJ 2015), a small expedition from the Japanese Alpine Club made the first ascent of nearby Pyagski (6,090m). This peak lies on the ea...
In August an expedition from Pakistan attempted to climb Toshe Ri (6,424m, a.k.a. Toshain I, Sarwali, or Dabbar) from the south. There is no confirmed ascent of this peak. Ascents reported in 1974 and '75 were almost certainly of Toshe V (6,132m),...