Pethangtse, Barun Glacier. The Rikkyo University expedition from Tokyo under the leadership of Hirotoshi Fukuda attempted Baruntse (23,688 feet) four times between April 29 and May 9, but the highest they reached was still 150 feet below the summi...

Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta, Access Problems. The Indian situation continues to be bad. Our close Indian friend, Celso Villafañea, has died, apparently of injuries sustained in a fight related to tribal hostilities over climbers and no doubt also...

Caraz III and Santa Cruz Norte. On July 15, Brett Wolf, Kris Erickson and Patrick Knoll completed a new route on the south face of Caraz III (5720m) in the Parón Valley. The route, The Usual Suspects (ED mixed V 85°, 600m), followed a line linking...

Mount Thor, West Face Direct Attempt. Steven Amter, Michael Sawicky and I attempted a direct route on the west face of Mount Thor. The face is about 4500 feet high, much of it overhanging. Lying above the Arctic Circle near a vast icefield, the mo...

Sawtooth Dome, West Face, Sawtooth Range. Any climber visiting the Sawtooth Range can not but help admire the majestic curve of a great granitic dome, seen in profile about three miles above the head of Redfish Lake, to the south of Redfish Creek....

The Kloochman, Traverse; Goose Egg Mountain; The Talon. The Kloochman is an enigmatic massif in the southern Washington Cascades. An old volcanic intrusion, the mile-long north-south- trending wedge has a main south summit, a prominent north summi...

Cordillera Barroso and Salcantay, Cordillera Vilcabamba. The Fritz Kasparek Memorial Expedition consisted of Raimund Heinzel, leader, Franz Hawelka, Bruno Klausbruckner and me. Its main objective was a mountain-climbing and cartographic exploratio...

Old Hyndman Peak, Bear/Chicken Variation. Brian Wood and I set out in early October 2000 to explore the northeast face of Old Hyndman Peak in the Pioneer Range for possible early season ice climbs. We bivied at the base of the north ridge and the ...

FALLING ROCK, NO HARD HATCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn June 15, 1981, Scott Williams (20) and his partner were climbing the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral. At the end of the third pitch, a German party caught up to Williams’ party and asked to ...

Dunagiri, Southwest Ridge. During April and May the Australian National University Mountaineering Club Expedition climbed Dunagiri (23,184 feet). We were J. Armstrong, K. Bell, K. Baldwin, A. Blakers, A. Bond, K. Burns, Peter Cocker, leader, J. Fi...

Crooked Thumb, North Face. This long and impressive face (V, F9, A3) was climbed during August 11-13, 1966, by Peter Cleveland and Don Storjohann. It stands as one of the most difficult climbs yet completed in the Tetons. When approaching the Thum...

FALL ON ICE, PLACED NO PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn January 1, 1983, around 1700, Lou Renner (27) and Ron Badel were walking down an ice chute that runs in an east/west direction from Le Conte Gully when Badel fell and pulled Renner, to...

Alpine Club of Canada. The Alpine Club of Canada experienced a very busy and rewarding year in 1977. The usual summer and winter activities took place. Some of these activities occurred in new areas, while others were a return to known, but little...

Winter Exploration of the Southern Patagonian Icecap. On June 6 an expedition of the Club Andino Bariloche left for the region of Luguna Eléctrica, north of FitzRoy, in order to find out about the winter conditions on the Patagonian icecaps. The l...

Sentinel Turret, South Face, variation. A direct variation of the Chouinard route, beginning directly below the prominent open book on the face, was made on August 16, 1967, by Jim Erickson and Sheldon Smith. The ledge below this dihedral was reac...

Mount Torment, Southwest Face. On July 24, Sue Harrington and I completed a route on the right side of the face just left of a prominent gully that drops from the south ridge. The best and hardest pitch was along a solid right-facing comer on clea...

CORNICE COLLAPSE, AVALANCHEBritish Columbia, Yoho National Park, Mount Vice PresidentOn April 9, an American man who was backcountry skiing in Yoho National Park died when he was swept away by an avalanche. Park wardens discovered the man’s body a...

Putha Hiunchuli. This expedition was a repeat of last year’s commercial expedition organized and promoted by the German Alpine Club. There were two groups; the first of 14 persons led by Siegfried Hupfauer climbed from October 7 to 27; the second ...

Sierra Club. Sierra Club mountaineers continued to enjoy the mountain wildernesses. The year was memorable for the achievements of a few and for great satisfaction for many. Club mountaineers watched the sun set from the summit of Mount Everest an...

Hamilton Lakes Dome, North Ridge. Having chosen an impossible line on Angel Wings and having succeeded in proving it impossible, TM Herbert and I cast our eyes across Hamilton Creek to the north ridge of Hamilton Lakes Dome or Peak 9770. This prom...