Mount Geikie, North Face. A new route was established on the 4,000-foot north face of Mt. Geikie in the Canadian Rockies. From July 23 to August 2 Scott Simper and Seth Shaw climbed continuous crack systems through the overhanging headwall to the ...

Lost Coyote Tower, Ascent. Previously unreported is the first ascent of Lost Coyote Tower (II A1 5.8) by Fred Beckey and Dave Pollari. The spire is located eight miles southeast of Rock Point, Arizona.Eric Bjørnstadt

Akuliaruseq Peninsula, West Greenland. Franco Alletto, Giuseppe Cazzaniga, Giancarlo Del Zotto, Bruno Gabaglio, Fabio and Mariola Masciandri and I were active on the north coast of the Akuliaruseq peninsula in July. From Base Camp on the coast, wh...

Wheeler Crest, The Big K-Mart, Four More Shopping Days. On December 21, Barb Howe, Eric Sampson, and I established a new route on a previously unclimbed formation on the far right (north) side of the Wheeler Crest. The formation itself is an appro...

Gasherbrum I. Our expedition was composed of Giorgio Nicolodi, Gino Valle, Fausto De Stefani, Sergio De Leo and me as leader. Excessive heat caused problems on the approach along the Braldo River and on the mountain. We climbed Gasherbrum I by the...

FALL ON ROCK, POOR CONDITIONSAlberta, Mount McGillivray, Kahl CrackOn July 16, D.W. was leading the third pitch of this 200 meter high 5.5 rock climb. The crack in which he was supposed to be climbing and placing gear was wet, so he climbed on the...

Marcus Baker, Chugach Mountains; Wrangell, Wrangell Mountains; and McKinley, Northwest Buttress. Todd Frankiewicz, Leo Americus and I completed a winter ascent of Marcus Baker (13,176 feet) on March 1. Though technically not difficult, it has rare...

Annapurna IV. Like last year, Annapurna IV was successfully climbed by a group organized by the German Alpine Club (DAV) on a commercial basis. We climbed the north face and northwest ridge and fixed some 4000 feet of rope, all of which we removed...

Bustle Tower, Beppin, New Route, Previously Unreported. From late June to mid-July, 1999, Makoto Kuroda and I were in the Circle of the Unclimbables. On July 2, we found a beautiful crack line in the center of the southeast face of Bustle Tower, a...

Rolf Larson’s and my route, climbed on December 4, begins up the central ice flow on the north face and eventually moves up right around steep iceless rotten rock. The first four 60m ropelengths went at WI3, WI4, WI4+, WI3. Three simul-climbing bl...

The High Mountains of the Alps. Helmut Dumler and Willi Paul Burkhardt. Translated by Tim Carruthers and adapted by Ken Wilson. The Mountaineers, Seattle, Washington, 1993. 224 pages, 275 color photos, sketches, maps. $45.00.In 1923, when modem mo...

Juncal Tragedy. One of the foremost Peruvian climbers, Arturo Tordoya, American Carl Erickson and Canadian Bryan Jay Ball have been missing since they left to attempt Juncal. It is feared that they were buried by an avalanche, probably on January ...

Mt. Hunter, Wall of Shadows, free to third ice band; and Mt. Huntington, West Face Couloir. “It’s the best day of the season,” our pilot commented as Russ Mitrovich and I flew into the Alaska Range. It was May 12, and we were headed for the Tokosi...

Alexander Blok Peak, West Face. It was reported that a big team from Central Siberia that included A. Bekasov, V. Kokhanov, P. Kuznetsov, K. Obednin, S. Pushkarev and S. Sagan made a new route up the very impressive face of Alexander Blok Peak (52...

Aconcagua, South Face, a new route on the Southeast Buttress to 6000 Meters. To acclimatize Jean-Luc Bedouet, Jean-Marcel Dufour, Pierre Rave- neau, Dr. Bernard Vallet, Jean-Pierre Chassagne and his wife Francine from January 16 to 22 climbed to 5...

EXPOSURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT AND CLOTHING, WEATHERCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn October 18, 1984, the bodies of Sadatamo Keiso (35) and Kenji Yatuhashi (32), both of Hiroshima, were retrieved from 16 meters below the summit of El Capitan, where ...

Soviet Climbing in the Pamir Mountains and the Tien Shan, 1980. Despite generally bad weather in 1980 in the mountains of the USSR, a number of new big-wall climbs were made on the high peaks by Soviet climbers. The 9000-foot-high south face of Pi...

Rødebjerg, East Greenland. An expedition was in the Angmagssalik area from July 2 to August 1. The leader was Scot Jackie Gorden, accompanied by Scot Wendy Gudmundsson and Englishmen Graham Butler and Nigel Dyson. They flew by helicopter to the Hå...

Wyoming, G.T.N.P., Blacktail Butte. On 28 August William Clark (19), was belaying Douglas Boggie (27), both relatively inexperienced, while Boggie tried a difficult section of the practice cliff. According to Boggie, he was about 20 feet above the...

First Ascent of Open Door Pinnacle, Wyoming. South of Grand Teton National Park, about 25 miles from the town of Jackson on U.S. Highway 187, a gravel road turns northeast up Granite Canyon. Eventually the road leads to a small Forest Service recr...