Nuptse Attempt. Like the Italian team this season, Americans Rob Newsom and his companion wanted to climb the south spur of Nuptse, attempted previously by Jeff Lowe. This pair never even got onto the spur. They waited for the Italians to finish t...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE, DARKNESSWashington, Nooksack TowerOn the weekend of September 1-2, 1984, a party consisting of Alex Bertulis, his daughter, Stimson Bullett, and Rimas Gylys (26) climbed Nooksack Tower. Bertulis is the acknowledged ex...
Mount Hunter, East Ridge. The Eihokai-Osaka Expedition was composed of Kazuteru Jo, leader, Katsuyuki Jo, Yasuyuki Yamashita, Shintaro Sekizuka and Hideki Nakai. They were flown by Cliff Hudson to the Tokositna Glacier on May 25. Base Camp, 10 mil...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED Colorado, Longs PeakOn June 16, 1986, at 1630, Ranger Jim Detterline at the Longs Peak Ranger Station received a report of a climbing accident which had occurred earlier in the day on Longs Peak. According to Joe Hol...
Cordillera de la Viuda, ascents. In late June 1999 Gerardo Telletxea and I arrived at the village of Culluhuay, in the northwest part of this cordillera. From the Leóncocha lake shore, where we camped, we explored the valleys draining west. On Jul...
Peaks in Northern Selkirks. On a week trip starting July 27, the undersigned, with Dave Wilson, John Wilson, Scott Highland, John Yeager, Tom Seim, Mark Zimmerman, Pete Owzarski, flew into a camp on the east side of the ridge between Austerity Cre...
Dhaulagiri Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Olivier Besson, Philippe Michaud, Guy Cousleix, Michel Beulné and me. We tried to climb the normal northeast ridge of Dhaulagiri. After an approach via the Mayagdi Khola we got to Base Camp on Nov...
Ganchenpo. Our expedition was composed of Hiroyasu Sugita, Yoshichika Segi, Yoshiko Kasho (f), Tsuyoshi Itai, Yasushi Tatsumi, Shuichi Takeda, Yumi Kanaoka (f) and me as leader. On April 7, we started trekking from Dhunche. We acclimatized at 4500...
Visser Expedition to the Karakorum. Dr. Philip C. Visser accompanied by his wife ; Dr. Rudolf Wyss, geologist ; Herr Peter, zoologist; Afrar Zue Khan Sahib and Mohammed Akram, cartographers, is leaving Srinagar the middle of April for another expe...
Blueberry Hill, Darrington Area. Chris Greyell and I made a new route on this face in June. We started well to the left of the Sumner- Gerhardt route in a large central depression. The first pitch follows a low-angle slab to where the wall steepen...
The Fin, North Arête Chimney. In June, Dave Nettle, Kevin Daniels and I climbed an obvious crack system directly up the north face of The Fin starting on the spine of the ridge that joins the base of the north face. Based on the old rusty quarter-...
Buck Mountain, West Summit, South Face. This major face, separated from the main south face of Buck by a large couloir, was climbed on July 28 by Rick Medrick and Dean Moore. The route begins amid loose rock in the gully near the lower right edge ...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED NO PROTECTION, HURRYING, WEATHER Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, BookendOn August 12, 1994, about noon, Bob Koppe (51) slipped on wet rock while leading the third pitch (5.8) of Melvin's Wheel III 5.8+ on the Bookend d...
The Alpine Club of Canada. The major highlights of 1991 in the facilities area were the renovation and re-opening of Fay Hut and the Water, Energy and Waste Management Symposium (WEWMS). The first hut built by the A.C.C. (1927), the Fay Hut, was f...
Peaks near Mount Chamberlin, Philip Smith-Rom.anz.of Area, Brooks Range. I established Base Camp on the upper Hulahula River on May 27, 1980, hoping to climb a few of the yet unclimbed mountains. P 8300+, the southernmost 8000-foot peak of the Cha...
FALLING ROCK, BAD WEATHERBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mt. BryceHector Allison (27) and Norman Letnik (22) started climbing the 7,000-foot north face of Mt. Bryce on 1 August 1979. On the first day, they climbed the first 4,000 feet and bivou...
Pucaraju, Hot Line. In May and June, Nahuel Campitelli and Marcos Frischknecht from Bariloche, Argentina, made a (possible) third ascent (with some new pitches) of Hot Line, a couloir/gully with decomposing rock and little ice on Pucaraju (5400m)....
Cerro Mismi and Other Peaks, Ancient and Modern Ascents. During 1977 I ascended several volcanoes in southern Peru and found on their summits traces of Inca occupancy. On Mismi (5596 meters, 18,360 feet), at the extreme southeast end of the Chila ...
Correction. The accounts .of the ascents of Kedarnath Dome and of Ronti which appeared in A.A.J., 1968, 16:1, pp. 216-7 were misplaced since both of these peaks lie in Garhwal.
Attempt on Kangbachen. A 12-man Yugoslav expedition, led by Joze Govekar, attacked Kangbachen, the 25,926-foot west peak of Kangchen- junga. Colonel James Roberts has kindly sent us details. They left Dharan Bazar in eastern Nepal in mid-August, g...