Salluyo and Other Peaks. A French expedition of sixteen established Base Camp on July 12 above Lake Chocñacota at 16,100 feet. A way was reconnoitered on July 14 to Camp I south of “Flor de Roca” at 17,725 feet. On July 16 Jean-Marie Galmiche, Pat...

Pucaraju, Ascents. It was reported that, in 1995, Cordier and Maynet climbed La Princesse au Petit Pois (TD) on the 300-meter south face of Pucaraju (5090m) on a gully line immediately to the right of the 1995 route Hot Line. In 1996, Abramowski a...

Iowa Mountaineers. The club celebrated its 25th anniversary in 1964 and sponsored its 34th major outing or expedition without a single fatality or hospital accident. The annual banquet in April was attended by 140 members from six states and prese...

Dharamsura (White Sail), Southwest Ridge, P 20,300, and Papsura, Southwest Ridge, Kulu. We left England by air in two groups, having hacked down our equipment to within the normal accompanied baggage weight allowed. Food was bought in the Kulu val...

Salcantay, East Ridge, and Soray Attempt. We set up Base Camp at 14,750 feet below Palcay Pass. On June 25 we had to climb down into a crevasse and up the other side. We bivouacked at 17,000 feet on the east ridge of Salcantay. The next day we con...

Ancohuma, Gorra de Hielo, Viluyo I and II, Hancopiti IV and VII. Our expedition established Base Camp on the east of the Illampu-An- cohuma group. (See map in A.A.J., 1979, p. 250.) We spent 15 days in the region climbing alpine style. We made the...

International Women’s Climbing Meet, Britain. The Women’s International Rock Climbing Meet, sponsored by the British Mountaineering Council, took place in Britain between June 12 and 26. Representatives from Denmark (1), Norway (2), Sweden (1), Fr...

Brammah Peak. The expedition of Tohokeiryukai was led by Miss Kei Ohara, who was accompanied by Nagamasa Yamada, Hisabumi Tomino, and Kaoru Yoshino. Matsel was their first objective but it was changed because of bad weather and the group turned to...

Lhotse Shar. A Japanese expedition from Waseda University made an attempt on Lhotse Shar (27,504 feet). They were Hisao Yoshikawa, leader; Teruo Matsuura, Masahiko Iguchi, Yoshio Hamano, Noburu Kaburaki, Takaaki Narukawa, Aoi Murai, Tatsuo Sato, S...

Dhaulagiri, Second Ascent. A 12-man expedition from Doshisha University, led by Tokufu Ota and Shoji Imanari, made the second ascent of Dhaulagiri (26,795 feet). From Camp VI at 25,600 feet on the Swiss northeast-ridge route of 1960, Tetsuji Kawad...

The Citadel, Last Cry of the Butterfly. Marcin Tomaszewski, David Kaszlikowski, and I, supported by the Polish Climbing Association (PZA), arrived in the Kichatnas on April 18, in perfect weather. We landed on the sunny Shadows Glacier, looked aro...

Near Tucson, Arizona. On 9 August 1948 John D. Anderson, a sheriff’s deputy, was assisting in the rescue of a 15-year-old boy who had become isolated on a clifï face the day before. Anderson had been lowered 500 feet down the 1000-foot cliff to th...

FALL ON ROCK-TESTING PROTECTION WHICH PULLED OUT AND FALLING ROCKNew Mexico, Sandia Mountains, The ShieldAfter a long approach on August 26, four well-prepared and experienced climbers began to climb the six-pitch Standard “S” Route (IV 5.6) on Th...

Istor-o-Nal. Three members of a seven-member Japanese team led by Koichiro Nishi reached the summit of Istor-o-Nal (24,290 feet) on July 7. Others were prevented from doing so the following day by a snow storm.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club

Men Against the Clouds, by Richard L. Burdsall and Arthur B. Emmons. With contributions by Terris Moore and Jack Theodore Young. 8 vo. ; xiii + 292 pages, with 65 illustrations and eight maps and diagrams. New York: Harper & Brothers, 1935. Pr...

Season in the St. Elias Mountains. There were fifteen groups climbing and skiing in the St. Elias Mountains in the summer of 1986. They spent 1451 man-days in the area. I summarize the results of some. Canadians Sandy Briggs, Don Merryman, Richard...

Fin Dome, East Face. Marek Glogoczowski and I also climbed a new route on the east face of Fin Dome, near Rae Lakes, that was F7 and two pitches long. NCCS I, F7.Galen Rowell

A History of Mountaineering in the Alps, by Claire Eliane Engel. 296 pages, 24 plates, with a foreword by F. S. Smythe and a bibliography of Alpine literature. New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1950. Price, $6.00.Indefatigable Miss Engel describe...

On 8 August 1947 Clement Ramsland, an instructor in Public Speaking at the University of Minnesota, fell during a descent en rappel from a position above the saddle between Mount Owen and the East Prong. As first man down in his party, he was usin...

Alto Ritacuba, North Face Ascent and Tragedy, Sierra Nevada de Cocuy. A Polish-Colombian climb of the north face of Alto Ritacuba (5464 meters, 17,928 feet) ended in disaster. We were Marek Danielak, Zbigniew Kaleta, Edward Krauzowicz, Krzysztof O...