Ganchenpo Attempt. Six Britons and an Irishman led by Ray Delaney attempted to climb Ganchenpo (7455 meters, 24,459 feet) by its west ridge from the north. They got to a high point of 6000 meters on April 5.Elizabeth Hawley
BOLT HANGER "FAILURE" FALL ON ROCKWashington, Index, Upper Town WallWhile climbing the route “Calling Wolfgang” on the Upper Town Wall at the Sport Wall area I took a 40-50 fall nearly hitting the ground. My fall was the result of not one but two ...
German Expedition, 1936. A new attempt on Nanga Parbat will be made this year led by Karl Wien, and backed by Fritz Bechtold, Assistant Leader of the last Nanga Parbat expedition, and Paul Bauer, leader of the two Bavarian attempts on Kangchenjunga.
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE CLOTHING AND EQUIPMENTOregon, Marsupial CragsOn November 14, Aaron Seemen (32) was climbing a 5.7, -mixed multipitch climb with a frequent rock climbing partner, Natalie Paden. He was leading pitch-4...
Bhrikuti base camp rubbish. On arrival at base camp the British-Australian expedition was dismayed to find copious amounts of rubbish strewn around this pristine area. They collected a 25kg compressed-gas bottle and about nine porter-loads of tras...
Three O’Clock Rock, Darrington Area. In April Tom Saunders and I completed a new four-pitch route on this formation, “Tidbits.” Somewhat left of the Big Tree 1 route, we climbed a dike on an apron below several large roofs. Near the top of the sla...
Balch Camp Flake, Flicker of Time Arête and The Passionate Life. On February 23, David Cotter and I climbed the east (right-hand) arête of the huge Balch Camp Flake, naming it the Flicker of Time Arête (5.9 AO). We started on the bolt ladder of th...
Peak 10552, Sentinel Turret, Found Arrow Spire. A second pinnacle on the east side of Sentinel Turret, about 300 feet below its summit, was found and climbed on August 26 by Ted Vaill and Brad Merry. Although it overhangs on all sides, a moderate ...
FALL ON ROCK, BOULDERING ALONE, NO SPOTTER Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Hallett CreekOn July 22, 1994, Debbie Gruneberg (19) was bouldering near the July campsite by Hallett Creek on the North Inlet Trail. She slipped and fell 20 feet, ...
A.A.C., Southern California Section.Section members gathered in July for a meeting at the Malibu branch of the Los Angeles County Library, home of one of the Club’s five branch libraries. The core consists of over 3000 volumes of mountaineering li...
Mt. Collier. 1903 first ascent by G. Collier, his brother and C. Kaufmann. Collier’s entry in Kaufmann’s book merely states that they went “along part of the arête joining the west end of Victoria to Mt. Whyte.” This is the only record of this asc...
Mount Michelson and Tugak Peak, Brooks Range. On June 6 Alaskan Robin Wilson and I took off from the Eskimo village of Kaktovik on Barter Island on the Beaufort Sea and flew over the still snowy Arctic tundra for the Brooks Range. After 40 minutes...
Fairweather, Carpé Ridge, and “Sabine.” On June 5 Ton Hoeneveld, Roel Mulder and I were flown to the beach just southeast of Cape Fairweather. It took us eight days to transport our loads through the woods and over the Fairweather Galcier to Base ...
Colorado, St. Mary’s Glacier—On July 26, a party of ten boys from the Thornton, Colorado Church of Christ were on an outing in the area of St. Mary’s Glacier, 12 miles northwest of Idaho Springs, Colorado. The group was hiking up the glacier when ...
FALL THROUGH SNOW INTO STREAM CAVITY British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mt. Assiniboine, HeadwallKarl Klassen (24) and a companion were climbing the headwall on Mt. Assiniboine on 18 July 1979 by the scree and snow patches to the right of the main...
Ridge of Gargoyles, The Turret and Upper Gargoyle. First ascents of The Turret (6350 feet) and Upper Gargoyle (6400 feet) were made by Roy Etten, Kent Heathershaw and me on November 5, 1967 and June 9, 1968 respectively. These rock peaks are the h...
Dhaulagiri I, Ascents and Tragedy. After completing his ascent of Annapurna I, Carlos Carsolio, a Mexican who has climbed eleven of the 8000-meter peaks, joined Norbert Joos’s predominantly Swiss team on May 11. On the 14th, he, Joos, and four of ...
Sermelikfjord, Southwest Greenland. In June and July the Austrians Toni Dürnberger, Ernst Herzinger, and Kurt Gilg and the Germans Stefan Rausch, Alois Häusl, Adolph Dosch, and Karlfried Wasel climbed in the previously unexplored mountains above t...
Mount Adams, Lava Glacier Headwall. During mid-September Half Zantop and I decided to take another look at the Lava Glacier Headwall, which to the first ascent party (A.A.J., 1961, p. 366) was a veritable "death trap.” We reached the Lava Basin by...
Grand Teton, Northeast Buttress variation. On the north flank of the east ridge of the Grand Teton, the substantial expanse of rock lying between the northeast couloir and the north face is divided into two separate buttresses by a nearly vertical...