Mt. Dickey, Move Your Ass and Your Mind Will Follow. We left for Alaska in April, with the goal of opening the northeast ridge of Mt. Dickey, a line that others, including French mountaineers, had previously attempted. Christophe Moulin had talked...
Lhotse Shar Attempt. Canadian Roger Marshall, Cynthia Cannell and American George Lawrence attempted Lhotse Shar by its southeast ridge. They made five camps above Base Camp, including an ice cave used by Marshall alone on October 20 and 21. Marsh...
Nuptse Attempt. On October 10, after four bivouacs, the two members, Italians Enrico Rosso and Fabrizio Manoni, reached 6700 meters on the south spur of Nuptse, previously attempted twice by Jeff Lowe. They abandoned the climb because of bad snow ...
FALL ON ICE—INTO CREVASSE, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPEDWashington, Mount ShuksanOn August 30, 1984, Hans Sebald (43) was descending Hell’s Highway on Mount Shuksan when he slipped and fell 16-18 meters before landing in a crevasse at the 2300 meter ...
Colque Cruz V and Other Peaks, Cordillera Vilcanota. Our expedition was composed of Jon Morgan, James Hall, Charles Halstead, Tim Dickinson and me as leader. In Malma we hired eight horses for the 16-kilometer trek to our 4825-meter-high Base Camp...
Mount Foraker. A group of four led by Steve van Meter climbed Foraker by its southeast ridge, which was first climbed in 1963, reaching the summit on July 14. At the same time a Japanese group, K. Sonehara, M. Inukai, Y. Abe, T. Momose and K. Yagu...
FALL ON ROCK, NUT PULLED OUT Colorado, Boulder CanyonOn June 1,1986, at the end of five days’ climbing in the Boulder area, Michael Stone (22) decided to try a lead harder than he had previously done, choosing Finger Crack (5.9+) on Elephant Buttr...
Batura and Nanga Parbat. On May 29 our Austrian expedition began a four-day approach from Aliabad in the Hunza valley over the 18-mile-long Muchiohul Glacier to Base Camp at 13,215 feet at the southern foot of Batura. We were to climb a new route ...
Puscanturpa Norte and Nevado Cuyoc. In June a four-man Italian team climbed a new variant on the most imposing part of the northwest face of Puscanturpa Norte (5,652m), between the 2000 French routes (AAJ 2001, pp. 284–6) Pasta Religion and Macana...
Paine Towers, Torre Sur and New Route on the Torre Central, South Face. On October 26, José Carlos Tamayo and I moved into the Italian Base Camp at 600 meters. Our first objective was to climb the Torre Sur by the north ridge, the first-ascent rou...
Lupgha Group, Batura Glacier. On August 19 Steve Goodman, Del and Steve Davis and I flew to Gilgit. The next day we hired a jeep to drive up the Karakoram Highway to Passu, about 50 kilometers from the Chinese border. We started with six porters a...
Fitz Roy, Canadian Route; Aguja Rafael Juarez, Comono; other firsts and new variations. There was excitement among the climbers at El Chalten in the fourth week of January 2005. The barometer was finally rising after three weeks of stormy weather....
Kamet and Abi Gamin. An all-Indian expedition made a remarkable record in Garhwal in 1955, accomplishing the second ascent of Kamet (25,447 feet) and the third ascent of Abi Gamin (24,130 feet). The party under the direction of Major Narendra D. J...
Middle Howser Tower, East Face. Al Spero and I started at a high point in the snow almost directly below the summit and angled slightly left. Many flakes and ledges that cannot be seen from a distance make the climbing quite straightforward, excep...
Colorado—Rocky Mountain National Park: (1) On July 10, 1952 John H. Tallmadge (21) said he was going to climb Hallet Peak and Flat Top Mountain the same day. Employees at Bear Lake Lodge advised against this because of the length of the climb, and...
FALLING SNOW BLOCK, FALL ON ROCK AND ICE, INADEQUATEBELAY, POOR POSITIONAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount TempleOn September 1, 1992, two Americans, Doug S. and Mike V., set out to climb the East Ridge of Mount Temple. Early fall snows had left the ...
Dhaulagiri Attempt. On September 16, Oscar Cardiach and I arrived at Base Camp at 4700 meters below the northeast ridge of Dhaulagiri after crossing Dhampus and French Passes. There we met two French expeditions, one civilian and one military, and...
Surihuiri and Minaspata, Cordillera Chila. I was in overall charge of the Japan Inner Amazon Expedition and Ichiyo Muko was leader. Ko Hagiwara and Kohichi Miura entered the Cordillera Chila, east of Coropuna and north of Ampato, the main and long...
Bhilangna Valley, Satling peaks, first ascents. A British team made several first ascents in the Satling group of peaks at the head of the Bhilangna valley in early spring 2002. With rock as good as Chamonix granite, virgin walls up to 600m high, ...
Gangchua, Kinnaur. An Indian army team led by Major R.J.S. Dhillon climbed Gangchua (6288 meters, 20,630 feet) in September.Harish Kapadia, Himalayan Club