FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED California, Joshua Tree National Monument, Echo CoveOn May 1, 1993, at 1413,1 was notified of a climbing accident in the Echo Cove area of Lost Horse. I arrived on scene at 1425 and got to the victim at 1435.1 found ...

Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face Attempt. A Bulgarian team led by Anna Pencheva saw their chances of success diminished when at 8050 meters two of their members, heading for the summit in the tracks of Wellig and Kammerlander, had to help a South Korean ...

Haftal Kangri (6,178m), northwest face. On August 4 Simon Deniel, Pauline Parmier, Elsa Pommarel, and I made a probable first ascent of a peak referred to by locals as Haftal Kangri. This peak is located above the east side of the Haftal Valley, w...

SLIP ON SNOW—Alberta, Rocky Mountains, High Rock Range, Mt. Bishop. Peter Vermeulen, Herb Kariel, and a companion were descending the SW face of Mt. Bishop on October 26, 1975. At about 1600 hours, while traversing a gently sloping wind slab about...

AVALANCHE, LOST EQUIPMENT, STRANDEDYukon, St. Elias Mountains, Mount LoganOn July 28, a party of four climbers were involved in an avalanche at about the 4600- meter level on the East Ridge of Mt. Logan, a short distance above their camp. Although...

Pharilapcha-Machermo Peak (6,017 m), first official ascent. The first authorized ascent of this recently permitted trekking peak in the Khumbu valley was made from the west in spring 2003. The team comprised Isrofil Ashurly (Russia), Marcelo Rey B...

Mountain Search and Rescue Techniques, by W. G. May, illustrated by Linda Boley, with foreword by Tom Hornbein. Boulder, Colorado: Rocky Mountain Rescue Group, Inc., 1973. 324 pages.This is surely the most complete and authoritative book on mounta...

Supplemental Notes on Early American AscentsMont Blanc. Through the kindness of M. Paul Payot, of Chamonix, the editor has received a copy of his father’s (Venance Payot) Oscillations des Quatre Grands Glaciers de la Vallée de Chamonix (Geneva, 18...

AAC, New York Section. The events of 9/11 here in New York overwhelmed everything else that had transpired before or since in the Section. Virtually everyone knew someone or had friends who were directly affected by the tragedy. Particularly grati...

Aghil Mountains, Various Ascents. New Zealanders John Cocks, Kristen Foley, Tom Davies, John Wild, Dave Ellis, Dominic Hammond and John Nankervis, accompanied by Liaison Officer Jin Ying Jie and cook Gao Zheng, spent five weeks in autumn, 1997, cl...

Aconcagua, South Face. Wayne Goss and Chris Reveley made an alpine-style ascent of the Messner Direct route on the south face of Aconcagua in eight days early in 1981.

Mt. McKinley, Reality Ridge, First Solo Ascent. I departed on May 6 for the West Fork of the Ruth Glacier (7,000'), one-half mile from the base (7,200') of the Reality Ridge, with 204 pounds of equipment. I encountered 5.4-5.5 mixed climbing to 10...

HYPOTHERMIA, ALTITUDE SICKNESSWyoming, TetonsOn August 12 at 6:30 p.m., I was dispatched to and located Michael Widenbeck (17) at the northwest end of Surprise Lake. He was in a state of disorientation, hypothermia, and suffering from mountain sic...

FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTCalifornia, Yosemite Vailey, El CapitanIn the afternoon of September 9, Russ Fields (29), Bob Dunahue (36), and Bill Hesse (27) reached Long Ledge on the Salathe Wall (35 pitches, Grade VI).Russ had the next lead...

Pasang Lhamu Chuli, West Ridge. Pasang Lhamu Chuli (7351 m), also known as Josamba 1 and Nangpai Gosum 1, was one of five new peaks opened for foreign expeditions in June, 1995. Its location is about five kilometers west-southwest of Cho Oyu. It w...

Montana, Glacier National Park, “Going-to-the-Sun” Mountain. The absence of David P. Wilson (21) was reported on the morning of 21 July when he did not appear for work. After waiting for him to return, it was decided to initiate a search at 10:00 ...

The Organ, Zion National Park. During a week with three spring snowstorms, members of the Memphis Mountaineers climbed a new route on the Organ which starts 50 feet left (west) of the major gully system on the southeast corner of the formation. Pi...

FALLING ICE-DISLODGED BY LEADER, POOR POSITION-BELAYERAlberta, Banff National Park, Weeping Wall, Center PillarOn December 21, J.R. (23) was belaying her husband who was leading up the second pitch of the Center Pillar area on the Weeping Wall in ...

Meru North, Second Ascent and Meru West, First Ascent. Our expedition was made up of Dr. Peter Haslinger, Dr. Peter Lengauer, Rudolf Wurzer, Karl Pfeifer, Julius Müller, Fritz Roth, Karl Reindl, Reinhard Streif, Konrad Scharnreiter, Peter Schiml, ...

Nalumasortoq, Non c’è Due Senza Tre. On May 25, Mario Manica (Italy), Giancarlo Ruffino (Italy), Francesco Vaudo (Italy), and Jèrome Arpin (France) established base camp on the shores of the Tasermiut Fjord, at the foot of Ulamertorssuaq. We set o...